I have a Cub Cadet RTZ L 50 that is not more than 5 yrs old. While mowing, the mower just stopped dead. When I try to restart, turning the key does nothing. Reseaching online, it would seem possibly the starter solenoid may be bad? Would that cause it to die while mowing? As opposed to the mower just not starting at first startup? The battery is charged when putting on a charger. I do not have a multimeter to test power before and after the solenoid. I pulled the solenoid off the mower and was going to just replace it but not sure I should start replacing parts without a definitive answer as to what is causing the issue. So maybe I should put the solenoid back on and attempt to diagnose? I did put a screwdriver across the two solenoid posts and it clicked but did not turn the engine over.
Very wise decision to locate problem vs. just changing parts. First by hand check all wiring for being tight & secure, a loose ground wire can shut an engine down.
Manuals and Diagrams for Cub Cadet Mowers and Tractors. Factory Direct from Cub Cadet. Buy Parts for Less.
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Scroll down page for your Shop Manual. See page 93 first & check fuses.
#3
ILENGINE
Two things to check right quick. Pull the dipstick and make sure there is oil showing on the dipstick after being wiped off and reinserted. And the second thing is put your hands on the rotating screen of the engine and try to turn the engine by hand. Let us know the results.
Two things to check right quick. Pull the dipstick and make sure there is oil showing on the dipstick after being wiped off and reinserted. And the second thing is put your hands on the rotating screen of the engine and try to turn the engine by hand. Let us know the results.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to this. Busy week. I removed the plastic shroud and the flywheel spins freely. I was not able to find any loose wires that could be causing it to not start. I only found one fuse right off the positive cable on the battery and that seems to be fine. Not blown. The dipstick has oil on it. I pulled the seat switch and tried to jump it with a wire so that might let it turn over at the turn of the key and it does not do anything. I assume that means the seat switch is not the root of the problem? I reinstalled the solenoid and tried to "hot wire" the engine by putting a screw driver on the two posts of the solenoid and nothing. My understanding is when you make that connection with the ignition key in the on position, that should cause the motor to turn over and start? It does nothing.
I do not have a multimeter and have a very little experience with using one. Should that be the next step to test if the solenoid is getting power and if it is transfering power through it to send power to the starter? Not sure exactly how to do that but I assume it is not to hard to figure out? Any next step suggestions is very appreciated. Would like to see if I can accomplish this fix without hauling this thing to the shop. Thanks.
#5
bkeller500
Is the PTO switch in the off position? Test with Ohm meter to make sure it is working
Is the brake foot peddle switch working properly...Also test with Ohm meter.
Is the key switch working properly?
Do the headlights work?
Is the trans in neutral?
Clean and secure the battery terminals......
thinking................hmmmm
#6
ILENGINE
Looks like we have confirmed that the motor isn't locked up. Engine should spin over with the screwdriver across the two big terminals of the solenoid. May want to either make sure the battery is charged, or take it out and have it load tested at a local auto parts store. Wouldn't hurt to check the fuses to make sure it hasn't blown one. Blown fuse would shut the engine down due to power loss to the fuel solenoid. Also if it died with the PTO engaged it won't restart, so make sure the deck is turned off.
It is sounding like one of your battery cables is bad, broken corroded through or fallen off
Run a booster from the battery + to the + on the starter, if the starter , battery & ground connections are good the motor should spin
No joy then repeat but this time add a booster from the battery - to a good ground near the starter first
If mower cranks = bad ground
No joy then try the last test boosting directly from a good battery like the on in your vehicle
No joy = bad starter
Engine cranks = bad battery
Five minutes worth of testing will reveal where the problem is , but not necessarily what caused it
But get back with the results and we will take it further.
If the battery is found to be bad, it could be the battery itself or the mower so the next trick is to recharge the battery & try again.
Folks here are big on ripping the battery out & taking it to be tested but that relies on the honesty of the shop that wants to sell you a new battery and some are not as honest as they could be .
I thought the battery was fine as my charger said it was fully charged and assumed it was good which appears to be my mistake. I do not have a multimeter. My neighbor tested the battery with a multimeter and a load tester?? and found it was not putting out enough volts. I replace the battery and now the mower turns over but it still will not start. I thought maybe because it was cold outside. Usually when cold, I would spray a bit of carb cleaner in the air intake and it would fire immediately. It does not. I thought maybe the spark plugs were fouled or the engine was flooded from my trying to crank it over for a bit too much. I pulled the plugs and they look fine. I replaced them anyway and it still turns over all day but will not fire. But now it is not getting gas? I have transitioned from not being able to get it to crank to now it cranks and will not start. It should be getting spark with new plugs so maybe it is now not getting gas? But shouldn't it fire with the carb cleaner in the air intake? Any which way, I appreciate the help.
Check for a spark at the plug when cranking the engine
If you have one put a short shot down the plug hole replace the plug & crank the engine, it should fire
IF not stick a pencil down the plug hole rotate the engine by hand & make sure the piston is moving.
If it is then take to rocker cover off & make sure the pushrods are in place & moving the valves in & out.
Valves are identical & their positions are identical so the 2 valves should look symetrically position when fully closed.
Do all this & get back
#10
shurguywutt
Interested to learn what the root cause is here.
I would recommend getting a multimeter, it is an invaluable tool if you want to do DIY on anything. You can learn how to use one on youtube and become proficient with it to isolate bad parts. You can find a DIY tier one for $36 (still at cat3 which is good), make sure to get an auto range finding one (you won't be able to test high amperage with one of the cheapies but you don't really need this feature for most applications).
Another invaluable tool is a battery load tester. Batteries are finicky things and most of the time they seem good but they have issues under load (when it matters, as you mentioned). You can find one of these for $20-$30. I like to check my batteries every few months to make sure they are in good health. You can usually catch them on the way out and save a lot of hassle of being stranded (automotive or unable to mow hehe). Your wife will think you are a hero. God bless.
My multimeters, I have 4 of them + 2 clamp meters usually sit unused for so long the batteries go flat.
They don't like bouncing around in the back of the service van.
Auto ranging meters are a PIA particularly when trying to measure resistance because you see a number and think there is a significant resistance failing to notice it is reading µΩ and not KΩ or MΩ,
Same story for voltages .
Even worse, is people get confused by the numbers when all that is needed is works or don't work and for that a high load test lamp works better and you don't need to keep on trying to read screen
I got a carbon pile load tester & though it was bees knees, good for impressing customers but a known good battery & some boosters is actually better , faster & cna be used to jump start other vehicles as well
For diagnostics, again jumpers will always be better than a meter
Meters are good for working on TV's & computers but for a mower, an orange spark tester ( so you can see it in the daylight ) and 1/2 dozen pieces of old wire with either bullets on both ends or spaded on both ends are worth their weight in gold
Could not count the number of times some one has posted their alternator is putting out 36.72 V as if the .72 actually was important or 238.7Ω or a clutch is showing 4.179 Ω and the book says it should be 3 to 4 so they decide the perfectly good clutch must be faulty .
About the only regular check I do with a meter is to check the battery voltage, engine running to confirm the alternator is charging .
Sorry to all for the delayed response. Winter arrived and so many things going on, I went on with things in life. But I wanted to let everyone know the outcome. I did replace the spark plugs and for whatever reason, the mower would turn over all day but not start. I replaced the fuel filter, and confirmed spark. I sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner in the air intake and let it crank and it finally turned over and started. I had thought it was starved for fuel and somehow it was apparently? Fuel filter fixed this?. Maybe the fuel filter was not letting gas through and the gas got gummy in the carburetor? Any which way, with a generous amount of carb cleaner(more than I would normally use) sprayed in the air intake, it started and is now running fine. I assume I am good to go for the season. I appreciate all your help.
Suggestion: Add Star Tron Fuel Treatment to gas can per instructions on bottle, will prevent fuel system from varnishing & gumming up.
I purchased a plastic measuring cup 36oz/ 4 1/2 cups. at Walmart when I picked bottle of Star Tron.
www.ccpartsnmore.com
Scroll down page for your Shop Manual. See page 93 first & check fuses.
