You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
Carburetor Part Number - Briggs & Stratton
#1
R
Reinman
R
Reinman
Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I have a B&S model 12J802-2369-B1 engine. Need a carb and the B&S site part look up has the part number as 194146. I can't find this anywhere to purchase. Is there an alternative I can use because it's not available on eBay or Amazon. Or do I need to look somewhere else?
Thank you so much !!!!!
Thank you so much !!!!!
#2
GetTechnicalWithJd
194146 is not a B&S part number.
Correct part number for you MTT is 694146
GetTechnicalWithJd
Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I have a B&S model 12J802-2369-B1 engine. Need a carb and the B&S site part look up has the part number as 194146. I can't find this anywhere to purchase. Is there an alternative I can use because it's not available on eBay or Amazon. Or do I need to look somewhere else?
Thank you so much !!!!!
194146 is not a B&S part number.
Correct part number for you MTT is 694146
#3
R
Reinman
R
Reinman
Thanks. Sorry I typed it in wrong in the question. 694146 is the part I cannot find anywhere.
#4
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
Briggs dealer site shows it as NLA. No longer available.
#6
StarTech
StarTech
And Briggs after bankruptcy attitude stinks. Sorry just my personal opinion. Like Power Distributors demanding you buy a certain amount every year if you need it or not.
I am finding a lot parts that NLA now that they pushing to just sell new engines and plus they really support lifetime to five years or less. What they are going to do is push the consumer and manufactures to other brands of engines. I have already seen a major change in the number of Briggs engines coming into the shop now. This attitude being taken by other manufacture too. O got a customer with a very nice ZTR that is 22 yrs old that I can not get any parts for and that one is manufactured by Husqvarna.
The OP might try the following choke carb and remove the choke vane. It should still have the primer function path. Might have to swap the fuel bowl retainer as it is the main jet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3739022000...MIqZr8kbDJ-wIVuRTUAR175QzzEAQYAyABEgK9TvD_BwE
I am finding a lot parts that NLA now that they pushing to just sell new engines and plus they really support lifetime to five years or less. What they are going to do is push the consumer and manufactures to other brands of engines. I have already seen a major change in the number of Briggs engines coming into the shop now. This attitude being taken by other manufacture too. O got a customer with a very nice ZTR that is 22 yrs old that I can not get any parts for and that one is manufactured by Husqvarna.
The OP might try the following choke carb and remove the choke vane. It should still have the primer function path. Might have to swap the fuel bowl retainer as it is the main jet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3739022000...MIqZr8kbDJ-wIVuRTUAR175QzzEAQYAyABEgK9TvD_BwE
#7
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
Briggs market share has tanked over the last few years.. Even before the financial issues. At one time they were like 66% of the market, and with what I am seeing now, I suspect it is now closer to 15% For me the last couple years, engine repairs have been minimal on both Briggs and Kohler engines, with a lot more Kawasaki. I would say at this point that Briggs is now less than 5% of all the engine repair work I do. Most of my repair work is equipment related and not engine related.
And repair invoices are just going up I have had a rash of people digging out their chainsaws that haven't been ran in a few years, and minor repair work is cost effective, but since they have set the chain links and bar sprocket have froze up. When you add those items to the repair it is no longer a feasible repair. So can't even repair chainsaws if they also require a new bar and chain. Just had a 45cc Homelite the other day. Needed a new $30 ignition module and replacement fuel lines and primer bulb. That alone is not a bad repair cost, but a new bar and 2 chains pushes the repair bill to $173.
And repair invoices are just going up I have had a rash of people digging out their chainsaws that haven't been ran in a few years, and minor repair work is cost effective, but since they have set the chain links and bar sprocket have froze up. When you add those items to the repair it is no longer a feasible repair. So can't even repair chainsaws if they also require a new bar and chain. Just had a 45cc Homelite the other day. Needed a new $30 ignition module and replacement fuel lines and primer bulb. That alone is not a bad repair cost, but a new bar and 2 chains pushes the repair bill to $173.
#8
R
Reinman
R
Reinman
And Briggs after bankruptcy attitude stinks. Sorry just my personal opinion. Like Power Distributors demanding you buy a certain amount every year if you need it or not.
I am finding a lot parts that NLA now that they pushing to just sell new engines and plus they really support lifetime to five years or less. What they are going to do is push the consumer and manufactures to other brands of engines. I have already seen a major change in the number of Briggs engines coming into the shop now. This attitude being taken by other manufacture too. O got a customer with a very nice ZTR that is 22 yrs old that I can not get any parts for and that one is manufactured by Husqvarna.
The OP might try the following choke carb and remove the choke vane. It should still have the primer function path. Might have to swap the fuel bowl retainer as it is the main jet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/373902200044?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:17OrqUyIXRfmYNcJ6OK8c8A94&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=373902200044&targetid=&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9013163&poi=&campaignid=17597089569&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300988&merchantid=511589505&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqZr8kbDJ-wIVuRTUAR175QzzEAQYAyABEgK9TvD_BwEThought
Thought it was just me - thanks for the info.Briggs market share has tanked over the last few years.. Even before the financial issues. At one time they were like 66% of the market, and with what I am seeing now, I suspect it is now closer to 15% For me the last couple years, engine repairs have been minimal on both Briggs and Kohler engines, with a lot more Kawasaki. I would say at this point that Briggs is now less than 5% of all the engine repair work I do. Most of my repair work is equipment related and not engine related.
And repair invoices are just going up I have had a rash of people digging out their chainsaws that haven't been ran in a few years, and minor repair work is cost effective, but since they have set the chain links and bar sprocket have froze up. When you add those items to the repair it is no longer a feasible repair. So can't even repair chainsaws if they also require a new bar and chain. Just had a 45cc Homelite the other day. Needed a new $30 ignition module and replacement fuel lines and primer bulb. That alone is not a bad repair cost, but a new bar and 2 chains pushes the repair bill to $173.
#9
R
Reinman
R
Reinman
Will try - thank you !!And Briggs after bankruptcy attitude stinks. Sorry just my personal opinion. Like Power Distributors demanding you buy a certain amount every year if you need it or not.
I am finding a lot parts that NLA now that they pushing to just sell new engines and plus they really support lifetime to five years or less. What they are going to do is push the consumer and manufactures to other brands of engines. I have already seen a major change in the number of Briggs engines coming into the shop now. This attitude being taken by other manufacture too. O got a customer with a very nice ZTR that is 22 yrs old that I can not get any parts for and that one is manufactured by Husqvarna.
The OP might try the following choke carb and remove the choke vane. It should still have the primer function path. Might have to swap the fuel bowl retainer as it is the main jet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/373902200044?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:17OrqUyIXRfmYNcJ6OK8c8A94&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=373902200044&targetid=&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9013163&poi=&campaignid=17597089569&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300988&merchantid=511589505&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqZr8kbDJ-wIVuRTUAR175QzzEAQYAyABEgK9TvD_BwE
#10
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
Unless it is a stihl or husqvarna saw if it needs anything more than cleaning the carb and fuel lines i tell people to just take $200 down the road 8 miles to the stihl dealer and buy a MS170 because they are already over $100 with me. Just get a new saw that is the right color.Briggs market share has tanked over the last few years.. Even before the financial issues. At one time they were like 66% of the market, and with what I am seeing now, I suspect it is now closer to 15% For me the last couple years, engine repairs have been minimal on both Briggs and Kohler engines, with a lot more Kawasaki. I would say at this point that Briggs is now less than 5% of all the engine repair work I do. Most of my repair work is equipment related and not engine related.
And repair invoices are just going up I have had a rash of people digging out their chainsaws that haven't been ran in a few years, and minor repair work is cost effective, but since they have set the chain links and bar sprocket have froze up. When you add those items to the repair it is no longer a feasible repair. So can't even repair chainsaws if they also require a new bar and chain. Just had a 45cc Homelite the other day. Needed a new $30 ignition module and replacement fuel lines and primer bulb. That alone is not a bad repair cost, but a new bar and 2 chains pushes the repair bill to $173.
#11
StarTech
Yes I got customers that complain about costs and some that want to remove drive links to extend the life of a chain. Well doing that is just asking for more problems like drive links jumping drive teeth. And I got customers that get every bit of use out some chains. Once the chains are worn to a point I call them dirt chains and that I only sharpen them for that purpose.
Luckily most of my customers understand that actual repair costs don't include chains, bars, and drive clutch drums. Those are extra.
StarTech
I explain this way to customers. The chain, bar, and drive clutch drum (spur drum) are normal wear items that the customer should be expecting to replace as normal maintenance items. It is just like blades and belts are normal wear items and are part of normal maintenance.And repair invoices are just going up I have had a rash of people digging out their chainsaws that haven't been ran in a few years, and minor repair work is cost effective, but since they have set the chain links and bar sprocket have froze up. When you add those items to the repair it is no longer a feasible repair. So can't even repair chainsaws if they also require a new bar and chain. Just had a 45cc Homelite the other day. Needed a new $30 ignition module and replacement fuel lines and primer bulb. That alone is not a bad repair cost, but a new bar and 2 chains pushes the repair bill to $173.
Yes I got customers that complain about costs and some that want to remove drive links to extend the life of a chain. Well doing that is just asking for more problems like drive links jumping drive teeth. And I got customers that get every bit of use out some chains. Once the chains are worn to a point I call them dirt chains and that I only sharpen them for that purpose.
Luckily most of my customers understand that actual repair costs don't include chains, bars, and drive clutch drums. Those are extra.
#12
B
bertsmobile1
There is nothing magic or special about your original carb
It is nothing more than a tube to mix fuel with air and a valve to control how much is allowed to enter the engine
Thus any carb can be made to fit and run
Your engine number brings up 2 different types of carbs
One has a choke ( always preffered ) and the other is an air prime type
I regularly replace the primer type with the choke type because the air prime system gives a lot of grief particularly if the filter housing is less than perfect .
I can get a whole replacement carb from China ( via Alibaba not ebay or amazon ) for 1/2 the price of the replacement filter housing
Any carb with a gasket the EXACT same shape as yours will physically fit perfectly and bolt up so that is easy
NB there are 2 gaskets that are slightly different & fitting the wrong one requires cutting a a bit of the mounting rib off the air filter housing the key is the position of the holes for the positioning pins.
For the choke I have found a keyring works perfectly .
So the information given by Star will work well
That particular choke is not spring loaded so will not automatically turn off after the engine starts you have to push & pull it to turn it on & off .
IT is just a matter of finding some sort of connection that works for you
I have fitted an aftermarket choke cable for an elderly man who had difficulties bending over to turn the choke on & off
B
bertsmobile1
Back on topic.Do you know if there is an alternative and to find?
There is nothing magic or special about your original carb
It is nothing more than a tube to mix fuel with air and a valve to control how much is allowed to enter the engine
Thus any carb can be made to fit and run
Your engine number brings up 2 different types of carbs
One has a choke ( always preffered ) and the other is an air prime type
I regularly replace the primer type with the choke type because the air prime system gives a lot of grief particularly if the filter housing is less than perfect .
I can get a whole replacement carb from China ( via Alibaba not ebay or amazon ) for 1/2 the price of the replacement filter housing
Any carb with a gasket the EXACT same shape as yours will physically fit perfectly and bolt up so that is easy
NB there are 2 gaskets that are slightly different & fitting the wrong one requires cutting a a bit of the mounting rib off the air filter housing the key is the position of the holes for the positioning pins.
For the choke I have found a keyring works perfectly .
So the information given by Star will work well
That particular choke is not spring loaded so will not automatically turn off after the engine starts you have to push & pull it to turn it on & off .
IT is just a matter of finding some sort of connection that works for you
I have fitted an aftermarket choke cable for an elderly man who had difficulties bending over to turn the choke on & off
#13
R
Reinman
R
Reinman
BTW - I found an alternative. I was cleaning another engine and the carb looked familiar to me. It is a B&S 799868. Almost exactly as the 694146. Only difference is the linkage attaches to a plastic part instead of a metal one.Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I have a B&S model 12J802-2369-B1 engine. Need a carb and the B&S site part look up has the part number as 194146. I can't find this anywhere to purchase. Is there an alternative I can use because it's not available on eBay or Amazon. Or do I need to look somewhere else?
Thank you so much !!!!!