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I am building a 1/2 scale replica of a John Deere H that I use to own.:thumbsup: I am using an 8hp Briggs & Stratton engine that hasn't ran in about 20 yrs. Cleaned oil off engine and I did mange to get the engine to fire up for a couple of seconds. I need to clean the carb up as I think that is my problem:confused2:. I have seen some youtube videos on cleaning the carb type I have and they keep saying they are using carb cleaner. I have a can of intake cleaner at home and was wondering if this would work. Here are a few picture of the replica.:wink:

Clean it with a ultrasonic cleaner. Harbor Freight has a heated for under $100.

Intake cleaner should be fine if it's what I think it is. Throttle body/intake spray cleaner... sensor safe? I think that would be fine. You could soak the parts in gasoline too. I feel lucky... a dollar store around the corner sells carb cleaner. Beats paying 3-4 bux a can at the auto parts stores. I use a lot of it.

That's a cool project you got there.

This video shows the type of carb I have. I don't think I want to spend money on a ultrasonic cleaner as this carb is pretty simple to clean.:wink:

How to Clean / Rebuild Briggs and Stratton One Piece Flo-Jet Carburetor - YouTube

bakerg said:

This video shows the type of carb I have. I don't think I want to spend money on a ultrasonic cleaner as this carb is pretty simple to clean.:wink:

How to Clean / Rebuild Briggs and Stratton One Piece Flo-Jet Carburetor - YouTube

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There's no guarantee that carb cleaner will clean it all. You also go to walmart and buy one gallon part cleaner that comes with a basket.

The biggest problem I have found on that carburetor is the throttle shaft wears into the carburetor body and leaks vacuum.

If you have a compressor its worth blowing it with that but becareful of what you do blow with it as it could damage some parts.

mowerman1999 said:

If you have a compressor its worth blowing it with that but becareful of what you do blow with it as it could damage some parts.

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Ya I usually set my compressor to blow at 75 psi enough to clean and dry without crazy amounts of air. I disassemble spray carb cleaner in every tiny hole then use spirial tip cleaners everywhere I can another dose of carb cleaner then compressed air. Don't get carb cleaner on gaskets or o rings

Well I put the carb in a part washer and got all the grime off the outside.:smile:



I got it mostly disassembled.



I could not get the brass tube out by the bowl.



I cleaned the parts and the carb the best I could with throttle body cleaner and blew it out with air. The needle for the float did not move and I had to remove it with pliers. Everything is moving freely now and the carb is back together. I will put it back on the engine and see if it works.:wink:

The 2 needle valves you use to set up the carb, is there a standard number of turns I can start with and once the engine is running adjust them to smooth the engine out?:confused2: Any information would be great.:smile:

reynoldston said:

The biggest problem I have found on that carburetor is the throttle shaft wears into the carburetor body and leaks vacuum.

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I found a little side play but there doesn't seem to be any shaft wear.

bakerg said:

Well I put the carb in a part washer and got all the grime off the outside.:smile:



I got it mostly disassembled.



I could not get the brass tube out by the bowl.



I cleaned the parts and the carb the best I could with throttle body cleaner and blew it out with air. The needle for the float did not move and I had to remove it with pliers. Everything is moving freely now and the carb is back together. I will put it back on the engine and see if it works.:wink:

The 2 needle valves you use to set up the carb, is there a standard number of turns I can start with and once the engine is running adjust them to smooth the engine out?:confused2: Any information would be great.:smile:

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You got it running? Sounds good so far. Is this one of those Briggs carbs with a high needle on top and the idle screw on the bowl? If so I rebuilt on a while back. It was the first big carb I'd ever worked on and I have to admit I was a little surprised when it fired right up
IIRC you turn the idle screw in all the way and then back it out about a turn and a half and see how that works. You may need to turn it out a bit more. You'll hear it when it's right.
The high speed screw I think you set with the engine running at throttle. Turn it in until the engine spits and rns crappy. Turn it out until it starts to spit and run crappy and then turn it in about half as much as you just turned it out. Hope that makes sense. And if there a better quicker way then somebody is going to say so.

I go high speed fuel mixture, low speed fuel mixture, idle speed, then stop. If you go back and adjust high speed mixture you will have to adjust the other two again, as the high speed mixture setting affects the low speed mixture and idle speed. If the engine bogs down between low speed and high speed, open the low speed mixture screw 1/8 turn.

Thanks for the info, I will try to get it back on the engine this week and see if it starts.:thumbsup:

please post pics when its completed,i think this is rather neat

Here are some videos of the carb back on the engine and the engine running for the first time in about 20 years. Really smoked at first but that went away after I started to drive it arround.

Here's me driving it around, still a lot of work to due but at least I know the engine runs.