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Carb rebuild

#1

W

wink

Hi everyone ,Im new here and just love this place!!
I am looking for visuals or instructions on how to rebuild a carb, Its a B&S engine 126t02-0675-b2. Thanks for any help.


#2

EngineMan

EngineMan

This may help you, and am sure more will come shortly.

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  • b&s carb 126t00.bmp
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#3

W

wink

EngineMan said:
This may help you, and am sure more will come shortly.
Click to expand...
Thank you!!


#4

reynoldston

reynoldston

Take carburetor apart. As you take it apart lay out parts so you know how it go's together. If things are gummed up bad from old gas see if you can bring it to a service shop and will see if they let you put it in their carburetor cleaner over night. If not just get yourself a aerosol can of carburetor cleaner and clean the parts the best you can. use compressed air and blow out all the ports and holes. I use tag wire and clean out all the real small holes. You might want to buy a over haul kit which will give you new gaskets and the most important replacement parts. Then just put things back together as you took them apart.


#5

W

wink

reynoldston said:
Take carburetor apart. As you take it apart lay out parts so you know how it go's together. If things are gummed up bad from old gas see if you can bring it to a service shop and will see if they let you put it in their carburetor cleaner over night. If not just get yourself a aerosol can of carburetor cleaner and clean the parts the best you can. use compressed air and blow out all the ports and holes. I use tag wire and clean out all the real small holes. You might want to buy a over haul kit which will give you new gaskets and the most important replacement parts. Then just put things back together as you took them apart.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I have an over haul kit on the way.


#6

A

afoulk

As far as carb cleaner in an aerasol can goes, I like the 2+2 stuff the best over stuff like Gumout or the generic parts store stuff.


#7

reynoldston

reynoldston

afoulk said:
As far as carb cleaner in an aerasol can goes, I like the 2+2 stuff the best over stuff like Gumout or the generic parts store stuff.
Click to expand...

I have found that the carburetor cleaner in the aerosol can really doesn't work that well. Is that the brand 2+2 ? Just where do you buy it because I will give it a try. This is the reason I let the real dirty carburetor set over night in a commercial type carburetor cleaner which is a lot stronger. When I take a carburetor apart and it doesn't look very dirty inside I just rinse it out with the aerosol can cleaner and compressed air.


#8

S

slimbo

lately with 10% ethanol the smaller the carb the more junk dryed up in it


#9

GetTechnicalWithJd

GetTechnicalWithJd

Download the workshop manual and check out section 3.


http://www.powerproducts.co.za/technical/briggs_270962.pdf


#10

impalass

impalass

wink said:
Hi everyone ,Im new here and just love this place!!
I am looking for visuals or instructions on how to rebuild a carb, Its a B&S engine 126t02-0675-b2. Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...
Take picture of the carb before you take in off so that you know where the springs connect to.


#11

S

slimbo

i sure lime imp's idea


#12

W

wink

LawnmowerJustin said:
Download the workshop manual and check out section 3.


http://www.powerproducts.co.za/technical/briggs_270962.pdf
Click to expand...

This is a great manual, Thanks!!!!!


#13

GetTechnicalWithJd

GetTechnicalWithJd

wink said:


This is a great manual, Thanks!!!!!
Click to expand...

No problem. :smile:


#14

W

wink

Ok, so now gas is coming out of carb, not from bowl. I changed out the fuel inlet valve and that tiny gasket or plug that the valve pushes up on , the float seemed ok .no gas inside it. but still leaking gas, coming from carb opening where the air filter sits.


#15

R

Rivets

Your symptoms indicate that the float needle and seat are not working properly. When you installed the new seat, from the rebuild kit, did you make sure that the rings on the seat were installed toward the carb body. Also, are you sure that you have the seat pushed to the bottom of the inlet?

For everyone else reading this thread, in December I purchased a ultrasonic cleaner at Harbor Freight for cleaning carbs. It has been the best investment we have added to the shop in years. Works at getting the gunk out of the carb about 90% of the time on the first try of six minutes. After two run thru's our rate is about 95%. You don't have to remove any of the plastic parts, which you must, if you use a bath style cleaner, like the one reynoldston uses. Still have our can of that style, but haven't used it since the ultra was put in, also much safer on your hands and the enviroment. I would definitely recommend this type of cleaner to anyone who rebuilds carbs regularly.


#16

S

slimbo

rivets....thanks for info on harbors cleaner,,,slimbo


#17

M

Mikel1

I got an ultrasonic cleaner with a thirty minute max timer about a month ago. Seems to work well. I have tried the water with a little dish soap but found the white distilled vinegar and water works much better.


#18

W

wink

Rivets said:
Your symptoms indicate that the float needle and seat are not working properly. When you installed the new seat, from the rebuild kit, did you make sure that the rings on the seat were installed toward the carb body. Also, are you sure that you have the seat pushed to the bottom of the inlet?

For everyone else reading this thread, in December I purchased a ultrasonic cleaner at Harbor Freight for cleaning carbs. It has been the best investment we have added to the shop in years. Works at getting the gunk out of the carb about 90% of the time on the first try of six minutes. After two run thru's our rate is about 95%. You don't have to remove any of the plastic parts, which you must, if you use a bath style cleaner, like the one reynoldston uses. Still have our can of that style, but haven't used it since the ultra was put in, also much safer on your hands and the enviroment. I would definitely recommend this type of cleaner to anyone who rebuilds carbs regularly.
Click to expand...

The seat may be the problem, when I removed it I thought the ring were facing me, so I replaced it facing out, so what your saying,it should be facing in, the rings should be opposite the fuel inlet valve?


#19

impalass

impalass

wink said:
The seat may be the problem, when I removed it I thought the ring were facing me, so I replaced it facing out, so what your saying,it should be facing in, the rings should be opposite the fuel inlet valve?
Click to expand...
The end of the seal with the rings should be facing the the seat. The flat side is where the needle seats. Make sure that the float is not binding on the rod.


#20

impalass

impalass

Mikel1 said:
I got an ultrasonic cleaner with a thirty minute max timer about a month ago. Seems to work well. I have tried the water with a little dish soap but found the white distilled vinegar and water works much better.
Click to expand...
I boil the carb in lemon juice.


#21

reynoldston

reynoldston

impalass said:
I boil the carb in lemon juice.
Click to expand...

So just how well does that work, and what do you mean by boil? I like the sounds of the ultrasonic cleaner and might look into it.


#22

S

slimbo

im laughin just might try little lemon juice 2 add with the corn fuel (ethanol) sounds like a hell of a recipe:eek:


#23

pugaltitude

pugaltitude

Warmish water with sonic cleaner detergent. Time varies depending on state of carb.
Can be 12-15 mins.
Once finished in sonic use carb cleaner and airline to dry out and clean.
Very rare do I have carb problems.


#24

W

wink

impalass said:
The end of the seal with the rings should be facing the the seat. The flat side is where the needle seats. Make sure that the float is not binding on the rod.
Click to expand...

Thanx again, like the cleaner idea 2!!!


#25

M

Mikel1

impalass said:
I boil the carb in lemon juice.
Click to expand...

I heard it works well and have considered it in the past. The main reason I haven't tried it was due to some people having trouble with the chalky coating preventing slides and throttle & choke shaft/plate from moving normally. Not sure how long they had the carb in there or how much lemon juice was used though.


#26

R

Rivets

Have not had any problems with chalky coating. The only areas which we have to double check is the idle jet on the Tecumseh carbs. This one is so small I always run a wire through to make sure it is open.


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