Can't find 30W oil anywhere in my area, or on line.

1. The oils specs are the important point. Check the API S* (or ACEA) specification requirement of the engine manufacturer.
2. Buy anything which is API S* or better, covering the SAE 30 viscosity range, either a simple SAE 30 or SAE 10W-40 or whatsoever having the 30 within its range.
3. Earlier I also used to buy extra lawn mower engine SAE 30 oil bottles. Nowadays I take the oil from my 20 liter can for my cars for the lawn mowers also. It is an API SL oil SAE 5W-40. The price/liter is lower than the price of the "lawn mower oil".
4. Commercially sold "lawnmower" oils are e.g. Liquimoly API SJ, CASTROL Garden, 4T 151B50 is API SJ, MANNOL SAE 30 4-Takt Agro is API SL, Motoröl MOBIL GARDEN 4T SAE 30 is even only API SG. So you probably have an oil with higher specs already at home for your cars which probably is cheaper and also is suitable for lawn mowers engines.
 
Alex Ethridge said:
I'm looking for Castrol 30W oil and cannot find it anywhere, on-line or locally. I've checked AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly, Walmart, Lowe's and Home Depot. So I decided to try for other brands, brands I recognize, not this cheap unknown stuff. The only straight 30W I can find is Super Tech but I have seen the independent wear test run on it and is ABSOLUTELY NOT as good as the nationally-recognized name brands.
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Try Tractor Supply....TSC ?
 
I've used Super tech HD 30 W in my Briggs and Stratton 16.5 Hp Industrial Plus engine for as long as I can remember . I now have 698 hours on it . Never had a problem yet . You have me wondering if I should change now
 
I have been using Shell Rotella T1 for many years in my air cooled 4 stroke motors. It is no longer rated for gasoline engines but this may be related to lack of energy conservation certification and incompatibility with catalytic converters found on road vehicles. Regardless, the additive package, especially the higher zinc content, makes this oil ideal for your flat tappet air cooled engines.
 
eagle86801 said:
I've used Super tech HD 30 W in my Briggs and Stratton 16.5 Hp Industrial Plus engine for as long as I can remember . I now have 698 hours on it . Never had a problem yet . You have me wondering if I should change now
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I am not an oil expert and claim no degrees in chemistry or engineering so that is my disclaimer. But when it comes to oil, I have used only Castrol in all my cars and changed at 3K even though the manufacturer said every 5K. I used Castrol in one of my Siennas that I took to 348K and was losing about a pint between changes.

I read an article about 35 years ago that listed 30+ filters and graded them on their ability to filter trash and the Purolator graded third place in filtering the smallest particles. I don't remember what the first two were as they were not available in my area. I've been using Purolator PL series filters ever since. Fisk, Wix and Fram came out dead last in every test I read and since a car is the second-largest investment I've ever made, I used to read a bunch of them.

As for oil, I'll say this: You'll never see a winning race car driver with a Super Tec decal on his car.

To each his own and that's my reasoning.
 
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I have used Super Tech 5w20 synthetic in my 2012 Hyundai Accent. I am now at 356k miles and it only uses about 1/2qt every 500 to 1000 miles. I use only Wix brand filters and change my oil about every 14k to 15k miles. That's good enough reason for me to buy it Super Tech. Warren Oil makes it and many other so called name brands. For the straight 30w for my vintage tractors I use Harvest King 30w from Rural King which may be made by Citgo.
 
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