My chain has been sharpened for years and years, and not by a person who is a good chain sharpener (me). I wonder, is it possible to tell if I should take a little off my rakers without using a proper raker gage? I stretched the chain out on a flat metal table and some of the rakers seem to be even with the top of the tooth. Wouldn't this indicate a need to touch up the rakers? Is this an acceptable method? Got a better idea? Can't afford a gage right now.
#2
Hammermechanicman
Best to use a guage but you can put the chain on the bar and put a straight edge across a couple teeth. The raker should be, depending on the saw and chain, should be .025 or .030 below the top of the teeth. Count how many file strokes it takes to get it there and do all the rest the rakers the same number of file strokes. What saw and what kind of chain if you know?
Good time to do basic saw maint. Clean the bar groove and check the oil holes. Dress the edge of the bar with a file if you feel a ridge on the edges of the bar. Clean the inside of the clutch drum and grease the clutch bearing. Every saw i get in has this neglected.
#3
tom3
I'd replace that chain. The actual chain part stretches over time and use and does not engage as it should in the driver sprocket, really wears that out much quicker.
But just looking at the sawdust can tell a lot about the cutters depth. Real fine sawdust means the cutters are worn and sharpened down and the rakers are too high.
Local shop buys chain by the mile (or so) and sells a cut chain pretty darn cheap compared to the big box stores.
Done badly and the job can make the saw difficult to use and damage the bar
A gauge is only a few dollars.
#5
Hammermechanicman
Hand filing chain can be a bit technique sensitive. I can do it with no guages or guides pretty well. If you are not experienced should probably use a guide or a Pferd 3 in 1. Or you just buy some cheap azz Archer chain off Ebay. I call it weekend warrior chain. Great for the guy whi uses his saw a couple times a year and just replaces the chain when dull.
Thanks for all the good advice. I did do the straight edge thing and the rakers mostly seemed right at the tops of the teeth or just a smidgen below. I file all of them to what looks like the thickness of a match book cover. Saw previously was taking for ever to go through a log and was smoking bad. Chips were more like large sawdust. Now it cuts MUCH MUCH better...but then died. So heres THAT story...
Lately I noticed that the stop switch was not working. So I would just choke it to shut it off. In my previous thread I stated that it would not start, and then today it started. After I sharpened the chain I cut a little bit and noticed that the saw would stall every time I stopped cutting. Finally it would not start again. I assumed that the defective stop switch was shorting it out intermittently. Opened it up as much as possible and could not get the fuel tank out so I could not get to the switch. So I put it back together and started it up. Then I hit the off switch just for the hell of it. IT WORKED. So tomorrow I will field test it again. And again, I have no idea what I did. Just hope it holds. Anyway, I have learned a lot about my saw.
I also found that my bar was very very slightly bent at the point where it is tightened in the saw. I put it in a vice and gave it a little tweek and it is nearly perfect again.
I will check the bar edge tomorrow as recommended. I don't have a grease gun for the sprocket but it seems to be free and smooth.
