Can’t get my 1 year old cub cadet to start

[jmacgreg]

I have a 2019 LT2 GX50 and had a similar problem. It was due to a failure of the autochoke solenoid. This has happened twice in two years and causes the engine to immediately flood. The first was fixed under warranty, but the second time would have been on my dime. My "solution" was to buy a generic manual choke kit from a local small engine repair shop and completely REMOVE all of the auto choke mechanisms, including the air vane and solenoid. The dealership told me there wasn't a manual replacement which was what prompted me to go to an independent shop. The installation was not particularly easy and required the removal of the steering wheel and dashboard. I drilled a hole in the blank spot on the dash and installed the pull knob there after attaching the cable to the carburetor choke plate mechanism. When the engine is cold, I pull full choke and the motor starts instantly now hot or cold weather. Frankly, I can't comprehend why Cub Cadet would think their purchasers aren't smart enough to operate a manual choke.

 

[motomike]

I have a 2019 LT2 GX50 and had a similar problem. It was due to a failure of the autochoke solenoid. This has happened twice in two years and causes the engine to immediately flood. The first was fixed under warranty, but the second time would have been on my dime. My "solution" was to buy a generic manual choke kit from a local small engine repair shop and completely REMOVE all of the auto choke mechanisms, including the air vane and solenoid. The dealership told me there wasn't a manual replacement which was what prompted me to go to an independent shop. The installation was not particularly easy and required the removal of the steering wheel and dashboard. I drilled a hole in the blank spot on the dash and installed the pull knob there after attaching the cable to the carburetor choke plate mechanism. When the engine is cold, I pull full choke and the motor starts instantly now hot or cold weather. Frankly, I can't comprehend why Cub Cadet would think their purchasers aren't smart enough to operate a manual choke.

10-4! I have a manual choke knob on my 22 yr old Murray with a 17hp BS Twin 2 and its worked perfect every time since new!

I've got a Cub GX50 also, I'll keep your experience in mind. Thanks.

 

[Forest#2]

The model, type and code info from the engine would also be helpful so we know what engine you are asking about? Cub Cadet has several different types and models of engines for a Cub Cadet tractor, therefore when people are asking questions about a engine problems they should at the very least list the Make, model, type and code from the engine.

Read post #10 and give us the results?

 

[1948man]

I'm in the same boat with a cub cadet XT1 LT46 I got from Tractor Supply for half price (it had been returned) because it wouldn't run.. I don't think I'll be hijacking the thread because I seem to have the same problem. Specifically, should I be able to hear the carb solenoid click when I turn the key to the run position or does the solenoid not function until you actually turn the key to the cranking position. I realize there are many things that could be wrong/trashed with this mower but want to rule out the carb solenoid first. 700 Series Kohler

 

[Forest#2]

I'm in the same boat with a cub cadet XT1 LT46 I got from Tractor Supply for half price (it had been returned) because it wouldn't run.. I don't think I'll be hijacking the thread because I seem to have the same problem. Specifically, should I be able to hear the carb solenoid click when I turn the key to the run position or does the solenoid not function until you actually turn the key to the cranking position. I realize there are many things that could be wrong/trashed with this mower but want to rule out the carb solenoid first. 700 Series Kohler

You really need to start your own post thread. The OP has not been back and probably not many watching.

So you bought it NONE RUNNING FROM TRACTOR SUPPLY FOR 1/2 PRICE? (or was it running and quit you)

Couple tips:
I'm assuming the engine cranks over ok and fast?
Remove the air cleaner and give it a shot of fuel into the carb throat with the throttle set at about 1/2 and no choke. If it's not getting fuel when you give it a prime it will promise to run for little while.
NEXT:
If no promise to start with a prime of fuel, get a spark plug or a spark tester and check for spark when the engine is cranking.
Let us know what you find with the above tests?
If you start a new post come back here and give us a link to your new post.

In answer to your question about the carb solenoid, it should have 12v in all position of the switch except off and sometimes you cannot hear them click.

 

[slomo]

check for rust on the magneto

LOL

 

[slomo]

Momma says:
Three things needed for a gas engine's promise to run, fuel, ignition at the proper time, compression.

Air, fuel, spark and compression.

 

[slomo]

Who's next with a broken Cub?

 

[Forest#2]

Who's next with a broken Cub?

Maybe in a few days,
but I removed the troublesome Briggs Twin Intek OHV from my Cub with the dual throat Nikki carb that I had to constantly handle gently and fiddle with and installed a really good Kohler engine.
Seems the higher in price that non-ethanol gas gets the more the Kohler likes likes the higher priced gas.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

With a helper to crank , spark , compression and timing can all be checked close enough to run by removing a plug and grounding it , holding your thumb/finger on the plug hole and watch for spark at exactly the time your thumb/finger is blown from the spark plug hole . If that looks acceptable put about 1/4 teaspoon of gas in the carb. throat so it can be pulled in on suction stroke .
If it has enough compression to start / run it will be real difficult to keep your thumb on the spark plug hole .