Briggs VTEK 22 only runs on starter fluid

[Resqguy]

I have a riding mower with a Briggs 44R677 Type 0018G1. I acquired it from a sketchy used repair/dealer in my area. I put about 2 hours on it - ran fine - until I noticed it was leaking gas out of the fuel pickup under the seat. After replacing the pickup grommet, hose, and fitting it no longer runs on gas. If I hit it with starting fluid it runs fine for about 2 seconds then quits. I have replaced the carburetor, plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter and lines. The motor runs better with the new parts but only for about 2 seconds. Along the way I have corrected several issues, wrong intake gaskets, misaligned throttle and choke linkage etc. No difference after all of that.

I put a clear gas filter between the fuel pump and the carburetor and it does fill up about half way to be at or near the exit tube.
I have blown out the fuel line. I also plugged one end and blew in the other to check for leaks - OK.
I have tried 2 fuel pumps.
The hose between the pump and valve cover is new.
For the 2 seconds it runs - it is very smooth.

My one concern is the connection for the fuel cutoff solenoid. The connector is not keyed so the wire can connect either way. I have tried both was - no difference. I would still like to know if the black wire is up or down.

I'm sure this is a fuel issue but have been running in circles. Everything between the tank and intake manifold has been replaced and still no result.

I'd also like to know how that fuel pump works. Is there really enough vacuum generated (by the starter) at the valve cover to pump fuel into the carb?

 

[StarTech]

Doesn't matter which way the connector is plugged in.

And boy Briggs got proud of these solenoids. Actually ridiculous priced.

Just make it is working by feeling its operation as you turn the ignition switch to run. Also can temporary bypass it by using a M8-1.00 x 5mm screw.

 

[Resqguy]

I can feel/hear the solenoid click when I turn the key. I loosened it to see if there was gas in the bowl and there was. The one thing that isn't working is the choke. The linkage on the carb seems to be designed for a seperate cable that pulls forward (choke on) and back (choke off). The throttle sequencer (my words) assembly that attaches to the throttle/choke cable works where choke on is up and choke off is down. Because of this my choke doesn't work. Has anyone noticed this?

 

[Auto Doc's]

I have a riding mower with a Briggs 44R677 Type 0018G1. I acquired it from a sketchy used repair/dealer in my area. I put about 2 hours on it - ran fine - until I noticed it was leaking gas out of the fuel pickup under the seat. After replacing the pickup grommet, hose, and fitting it no longer runs on gas. If I hit it with starting fluid it runs fine for about 2 seconds then quits. I have replaced the carburetor, plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter and lines. The motor runs better with the new parts but only for about 2 seconds. Along the way I have corrected several issues, wrong intake gaskets, misaligned throttle and choke linkage etc. No difference after all of that.

I put a clear gas filter between the fuel pump and the carburetor and it does fill up about half way to be at or near the exit tube.
I have blown out the fuel line. I also plugged one end and blew in the other to check for leaks - OK.
I have tried 2 fuel pumps.
The hose between the pump and valve cover is new.
For the 2 seconds it runs - it is very smooth.

My one concern is the connection for the fuel cutoff solenoid. The connector is not keyed so the wire can connect either way. I have tried both was - no difference. I would still like to know if the black wire is up or down.

I'm sure this is a fuel issue but have been running in circles. Everything between the tank and intake manifold has been replaced and still no result.

I'd also like to know how that fuel pump works. Is there really enough vacuum generated (by the starter) at the valve cover to pump fuel into the carb?

Hello R.,

The fuel shutoff solenoid (anti-backfire valve) can be connected either way. It is individually insulated internally.

One problem that is common is the shutoff solenoid can go bad, or they are bad right out of the box on replacement carburetors.

Personally, on my own equipment, I snip off the plunger end and install a manual shutoff valve in the fuel supply line before the pump. I got tired of fooling with them always shutting me down or getting stuck.

If you idle the engine down for a few seconds and then shut the manual valve off, there is no backfire issue.

 

[Resqguy]

I removed the solenoid and replaced it with a bypassed one. No difference. I also disconnected the choke to see if it would start with the choke on or off - still no difference. I'm about ready to sell it as junk and hire someone to cut my lawn.

 

[Auto Doc's]

I removed the solenoid and replaced it with a bypassed one. No difference. I also disconnected the choke to see if it would start with the choke on or off - still no difference. I'm about ready to sell it as junk and hire someone to cut my lawn.

What are you describing as "bypassed"?

Like I mentioned, I cut the plunger tip off of the solenoid on mine.

 

[Resqguy]

What are you describing as "bypassed"?

Like I mentioned, I cut the plunger tip off of the solenoid on mine.

A solenoid with no tip.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello R.,

Time to back track from the tank to the carburetor and test for a blockage.

Can you disconnect the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor, and it pumps fuel when you crank the engine? It should have a steady flow while cranking.

If it is not, then you have a line sucking in air (missing clamps) or there is an insect nest blockage in the fuel line you have. I have had to blow out fuel lines several times for insect nests, especially if the line came off of a bulk roll that has been sitting.

Don't forget to verify the fuel tank fitting if it is a 90-degree fitting, they will trap debris inside them.

If flow from the pump is good, that points to the carburetor possibly having an inlet blockage or a stuck fuel needle.

 

[Resqguy]

Hello R.,

Time to back track from the tank to the carburetor and test for a blockage.

Can you disconnect the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor, and it pumps fuel when you crank the engine? It should have a steady flow while cranking.

If it is not, then you have a line sucking in air (missing clamps) or there is an insect nest blockage in the fuel line you have. I have had to blow out fuel lines several times for insect nests, especially if the line came off of a bulk roll that has been sitting.

Don't forget to verify the fuel tank fitting if it is a 90-degree fitting, they will trap debris inside them.

If flow from the pump is good, that points to the carburetor possibly having an inlet blockage or a stuck fuel needle.

I agree with the direction you suggest. I will test the flow from the pump. I have blown out the line. I also plugged up the line at the tank and blew in the hose at the pump and it held pressure - there was no leakage.

I'm also thinking there might be water in the gas. Before I purchased it, the tractor had been sitting out when we had heavy rain. That was when the grommet was deteriorated. Before I drain the tank I was thinking of trying an external tank with fresh gas. Does anyone know of a source for an external gas tank?

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello R.,

The fuel pump should suction fuel out of any clean container using a separate hose. It does not require a lot of fresh fuel or a whole separate tank. If there was a chance of water initially, the carburetor will need to be cleaned and blow out the main jet. Fuel cannot get past even a little water inside a carburetor.