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My Scotts 2048 (I hear that hissing sound) was not idling and lost power at full throttle puffing black exhaust. I am rebuilding the carb but noticed that the intake manifold was warped. Parts on order so I don't know if this is going to fix it, but I thought I 'd post it just in case others where going through the forum looking for weird stuff. I have a well maintained and disappointing 20HP Intek PoS (piece of s***) with 370 hours, 406777-0128-E1.

I will say I saw no damage due to 10% ethanol which I use (like I have a choice in NJ), carb was clean as a whistle and more than 10 years old.

What you are showing is more common than you would think. Briggs claims it is from over torque of carb mount bolts. I think it may be a combination of torque, and heat from the engine. Either way it needs replaced. I have replaced more than one over the last several years.

Thanks for the reply. I replaced the manifold, but if it was over-torqued it was done when the engine was originally assembled. Carb rebuild complete and adjusted the valves. Started right up, no issues.

Had the same problem with a 44P777, replaced the manifold but it was too late. Replacement 49M977 which is of the Commercial Turf Series/Professional Series has an aluminum intake manifold.

mxsmith4 said:

My Scotts 2048 (I hear that hissing sound) was not idling and lost power at full throttle puffing black exhaust. I am rebuilding the carb but noticed that the intake manifold was warped. Parts on order so I don't know if this is going to fix it, but I thought I 'd post it just in case others where going through the forum looking for weird stuff. I have a well maintained and disappointing 20HP Intek PoS (piece of s***) with 370 hours, 406777-0128-E1.

I will say I saw no damage due to 10% ethanol which I use (like I have a choice in NJ), carb was clean as a whistle and more than 10 years old.

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i just replaced one on 2010 snapper 20hp POS it only had 175 hrs on it ..I think its caused by heat coming off the exhaust its right below it

Well the "POS" adjective is used a lot and I won't argue based on my experience with Briggs. The overheat IL ENG refers to is all too real and could be fixed with an oil cooler which could not add more than $100 to new units IMO. From homeowner experience and reading, Kohler and others had coolers at one time, but apparently the attrition is good for sales. Keep your fingers crossed. With the kind of heat that warped that intake, the heads are not far away.

I have to replace my first plastic intake on a 24hp Briggs vtwin. Is was warped after removing carb to rebuild it. Are these intakes known to warp? Do you get new nuts since there molded in with the plastic?

davbell22602 said:

I have to replace my first plastic intake on a 24hp Briggs vtwin. Is was warped after removing carb to rebuild it. Are these intakes known to warp? Do you get new nuts since there molded in with the plastic?

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mine came with the nuts and yes they are known for it ..I used to love Briggs i still do if its an older one these new ones i wouldn't give u $50 bucks for one there awful

motoman said:

Well the "POS" adjective is used a lot and I won't argue based on my experience with Briggs. The overheat IL ENG refers to is all too real and could be fixed with an oil cooler which could not add more than $100 to new units IMO. From homeowner experience and reading, Kohler and others had coolers at one time, but apparently the attrition is good for sales. Keep your fingers crossed. With the kind of heat that warped that intake, the heads are not far away.

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yes i do agree there they could also put a thicker heat shield on it the Exhaust right below it the tin the use is useless

briggs said:

mine came with the nuts and yes they are known for it ..I used to love Briggs i still do if its an older one these new ones i wouldn't give u $50 bucks for one there awful

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I agree. Bring back the Briggs Lhead twin engines.

davbell22602 said:

I agree. Bring back the Briggs Lhead twin engines.

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yup yup i do agree...I have 3 inteck motors at the shop with holes in the block and they were all low k and i have a 17.5 hp single cyl that has a knock to it at low speed all had good oil in them but some how the all blew up i got lots of parts lol:thumbsup: might be able to throw something together soon

briggs said:

yup yup i do agree...I have 3 inteck motors at the shop with holes in the block and they were all low k and i have a 17.5 hp single cyl that has a knock to it at low speed all had good oil in them but some how the all blew up i got lots of parts lol:thumbsup: might be able to throw something together soon

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I got a 25hp intek that was on a Scotts/John Deere 2546 in pieces in couple 5 gallon buckets. It has 2 broken rods. Unfortunely you cant buy just rods. That part number subs to a crankshaft kit. So I sold what I could off the mower then scrapped rest of it.

I love the L head twins,my dad was a gm tech and loved the Vegas(trying not to turn this thread into automotive.lol)

tybilly said:

I love the L head twins,my dad was a gm tech and loved the Vegas(trying not to turn this thread into automotive.lol)

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me to lol u must have seen my Pro street race car too I sold it some guy offered me stupid money for it rolling .....I want another 73 i like them better

I had the same thing happen to me this month. My 22hp Endurance Briggs was back firing while mowing and surging some. I took the carb off cleaned it still did it. I bought a new carb and noticed the warp as I was inspecting the assembly before I put back on the engine. I wish I caught it the first time. HA. Well being mowing season I took the carb off and applied a good bead of gasket maker and that did the trick. Runs so strong now.
I see they have a revised manifold but it looks like the same engineering at the point of the warp so I am leery of spending the money and time to replace it with something of the same. I only had 30 hrs on it. I see the Professional series has a metal manifold and wonder if that will work. The carb for this Pro series is the same Nikki 2 barrel so I am hopeful. If I feel rich soon I may order one and try it. There is different gaskets for the manifold to the heads but they won't effect anything. In my new carb kit I got gaskets like that.
Does anyone feel the new revised intake is any better?

I bought a metal maniforld from a Briggs Professional and using the spacer for that motor and the restriction plate and gaskets required on my Husqvarna Endurance motor.
The engine runs great. Everything lined up perfect. Including the flywheel shroud and all throttle and choke links.

truckinguy said:

I bought a metal maniforld from a Briggs Professional and using the spacer for that motor and the restriction plate and gaskets required on my Husqvarna Endurance motor.
The engine runs great. Everything lined up perfect. Including the flywheel shroud and all throttle and choke links.

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This is good to know, my first impression when I had the new 30 HP Pro Turf engine out of the box and the 26 HP ELS engine next to it, I thought that the aluminum manifold would not fit on the ELS engine. I had replaced the plastic manifold on my 26 ELS engine and as I torqued the carb bolts to spec I watched as the plastic manifold warped. I sealed it with high temp silicone, but it was too late as permanent damage had already occurred in the engine.

Because of the linkage hookup,the top motor air filter shroud I had to put a spacer in between the manifold and the carb. At first I thought this would effect the engine's performance,etc. But it didn't which I'm happy about of course. This spacer brought it to the same specs/distance as the plastic/carb combo OEM. They must use the spacer for this purpose on other models. Also on my carb I have the restriction metal gasket between the carb and manifold. So I have 3 gaskets and the metal restriction plate between the carb and manifold. It lined up perfect. Runs perfect I must say. I didn't think that combo would really work. I don't know what the restriction metal plate does or doesn't do but not all have it between the carb and manifold it seems.

If anyone knows of an aluminum manifold to replace this plastic one, please provide vendor and part number. Check out funny mower guy on youtube "Taryl fixes all". He points out the manifold issue on this engine, it warps AND cracks along the heat seam where the top and bottom are joined in manufacture; and the little hose for pulse pump dries and cracks. I replaced the little hose and slathered epoxy along the seam. Seems to have helped smooth things out at high rpms. Little hose can be had for less than 10 bucks on ebay. Takes longer to remove hood on mower to get at this area than to do these little repairs.