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I have a briggs & stratton walk behind mower 500e. It is less then 2 years old with about 15 hours on it. It is used only for edging as we have other mowers for the bulk of the acreage. Whenever I add fuel I also add stabilizer.

The mower will no longer run. When I prime it, it starts immediately on one pull, but within a few seconds dies.

After researching the problem I have done the following:

1. Emptied the fuel and refilled with fresh fuel
2. Disassembled the carb and checked and cleaned all the jets and holes
3. Cleaned the air filter
4. Check the fuel lines for clogs and leaks
5. Checked and cleaned the spark plug
6. Verified the oil is full

None of my remedies made a difference.

What is making me crazy is that I can saturate the air filter with fuel and it will run for 4 or 5 minutes before dying, so it seems there is a fuel delivery problem, but, as mentioned I cleaned the carb and replaced the fuel. I have verified that the bowl is filling up with fuel (opened the drainage port and fuel pours out).

I have read that a coil issue could be the cause of start and die, however, since it runs for several minutes with air filter saturated with fuel, it seems that the problem is fuel delivery.

Can someone suggest what I might look at or do next to resolve this frustrating issue. It was an inexpensive home depot mower, but with minimal use over less then two years, it is hard to believe it needs to be replaced.

Thank you

Model number of the mower/engine so I don't make a fool of my self trying to help.:smile:

BlazNT said:

Model number of the mower/engine so I don't make a fool of my self trying to help.:smile:

Click to expand...

thank you for reply.

The plate reads:

Yard Machine
21"
Briggs and Stratton
500E
series
140 cc

How to find real model number.
youtube.com/watch?v=2jXOwxRbPpA

BlazNT said:

How to find real model number.
youtube.com/watch?v=2jXOwxRbPpA

Click to expand...

There are no numbers in any of the places shown in the video, but the bar code on the side takes me to the briggs website with this
model number:

09P602-0023-F1

I have a sneaky suspicion that the 500E motor is made in China.
I had a hell of a job finding information on it.
The B & S web site down here refused to acknowledge any of the numbers on the engine as did the B & S USA site.

That is a good model number, so you can get parts, Carb overhaul kit number is 590589 or 594636, depending on the date code. That carb has only been around 2-3 years and can be a devil if you are not careful. From your description, I would be checking the float level and adjusting it slightly rich. Also, the seals and gaskets like to roll, be careful assembling it.

bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/29jnwHP.1FzXFix2.pdf
On page 4 did you clean 117 and replace 105 both pieces?

Rivets said:

That is a good model number, so you can get parts, Carb overhaul kit number is 590589 or 594636, depending on the date code. That carb has only been around 2-3 years and can be a devil if you are not careful. From your description, I would be checking the float level and adjusting it slightly rich. Also, the seals and gaskets like to roll, be careful assembling it.

Click to expand...

Thank you for replying.
I do not think there is any adjustment for rich or lean, but I will check again.
The float appears to be working ok.

BlazNT said:

bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/29jnwHP.1FzXFix2.pdf
On page 4 did you clean 117 and replace 105 both pieces?

Click to expand...

#117 did have some clogged holes in it. I disassembled it (2 pieces) and used a thin wire to clear them, I was able to get carb cleaner to spray unrestricted through all of the holes and jets.

Although I did not replace 105, I did checked it manually and it would seal completely and allow easy fuel flow with the manual movement of the float.

drjulian said:

There are no numbers in any of the places shown in the video, but the bar code on the side takes me to the briggs website with this
model number:

09P602-0023-F1

View attachment 28757

Click to expand...

That is your model number.

Using a clear glass container open the fuel drain on bottom of carb. check to see if any water is in there.

BlazNT said:

Using a clear glass container open the fuel drain on bottom of carb. check to see if any water is in there.

Click to expand...

I have completely drained the tank and the bowl and put fresh fuel in, and it did not solve the problem.

Well there is a cheap & dirty test for the carb.
Pull it off the mower leaving the fuel line attached.
Blow through it with high volume low pressure air.
Put your hand, a cotton rag whatever about 6" away from the engine end and see if it gets wet with fuel.
If you have one of those vacuum cleaner spray guns or a hair drier that can blow COLD air use it.
If not use an air duster poked into the end of a dunny roll , kitchen towel etc, spool.
Do this outside & don't smoke, no naked flames , pets , small children, etc, etc ,etc.

I have had no end of trouble with these carbs.
Carb cleaner will soften all of the rubber bits and you really can only clean this carb with detergent in an ultrasonic cleaner.
The seat which comes with the needle ( part 105) tends to bounce back after you have pushed it home and this will cause the float to cut the fuel off to early so the fuel level will be too low.
I pop a smeere of rubber grease on it and still have to check it two or three times.

Before you pull the carb off just check that the govenor is actually holding the throttle butterfly fully open.
I did come across one that was holding the throttle fully closed.

bertsmobile1 said:

Well there is a cheap & dirty test for the carb.
Pull it off the mower leaving the fuel line attached.
Blow through it with high volume low pressure air.
Put your hand, a cotton rag whatever about 6" away from the engine end and see if it gets wet with fuel.
If you have one of those vacuum cleaner spray guns or a hair drier that can blow COLD air use it.
If not use an air duster poked into the end of a dunny roll , kitchen towel etc, spool.
Do this outside & don't smoke, no naked flames , pets , small children, etc, etc ,etc.

I have had no end of trouble with these carbs.
Carb cleaner will soften all of the rubber bits and you really can only clean this carb with detergent in an ultrasonic cleaner.
The seat which comes with the needle ( part 105) tends to bounce back after you have pushed it home and this will cause the float to cut the fuel off to early so the fuel level will be too low.
I pop a smeere of rubber grease on it and still have to check it two or three times.

Before you pull the carb off just check that the govenor is actually holding the throttle butterfly fully open.
I did come across one that was holding the throttle fully closed.

Click to expand...

Thank you, this is very useful and certainly may be the solution. I believe exactly what you describe (seat bouncing back) may very well be happening. This would explain why I would get fuel flow when I open the drain, yet the fuel level remains too low when the needle cuts off.

I will run the suggested test and report back.

Again, thanks!

bertsmobile1 said:

Well there is a cheap & dirty test for the carb.
Pull it off the mower leaving the fuel line attached.
Blow through it with high volume low pressure air.
Put your hand, a cotton rag whatever about 6" away from the engine end and see if it gets wet with fuel.
If you have one of those vacuum cleaner spray guns or a hair drier that can blow COLD air use it.
If not use an air duster poked into the end of a dunny roll , kitchen towel etc, spool.
Do this outside & don't smoke, no naked flames , pets , small children, etc, etc ,etc.

I have had no end of trouble with these carbs.
Carb cleaner will soften all of the rubber bits and you really can only clean this carb with detergent in an ultrasonic cleaner.
The seat which comes with the needle ( part 105) tends to bounce back after you have pushed it home and this will cause the float to cut the fuel off to early so the fuel level will be too low.
I pop a smeere of rubber grease on it and still have to check it two or three times.

Before you pull the carb off just check that the govenor is actually holding the throttle butterfly fully open.
I did come across one that was holding the throttle fully closed.

Click to expand...

Following your advice, I checked the float seat, and I discovered some varnish/crap/who knows what. I cleaned that up and that did the trick. The mower is running again!

Thanks for your helpful advice!!

I sent a message a couple days ago that I think I had it figure out why my Briggs & Stratton 550 series 158cc Yard Machine 21” push mower, would start and dies within a few second and it work 1000% on my mower, so here the answer I finished it last night, the carb bowl is made in the gas tank, when I rinsed the tank out 3 different time, The blew it out, I missed the carb bowl and 2 nozzle on top of the tank, And the diaphragm goes on the tank side, make sure the carb bowl made into the gas tank, is clean and filled to the top with gas, the primer bulb started working, it fired up and stayed running, thanks Donnie