Hey guys, hope everyone is doing well , my name is Carlos and this is my first post,i had a technical question and i was wanting some opinions,i have a older Briggs mower model year 2006, your typical little Briggs block (no governor) , this mower had a rough life before i got it and the motor could be rebuilt but thats something ill mess with later, to put it simply this is what i wanna do,i have another block ,brand new short block that i want to use as a motor for this mower, BUT it has a governor,can i remove the governor stem and just braze the hole shut?? i work in a machine shop and have acces to everything in the world i need when it comes to tools including a first class welder that would be happy to close that hole for me,anybody see anything wrong with this plan? before i go digging out model numbers and codes, the blocks are identical, same crank, same valve size same everything, just one has a governor hole and the other doesn't, thank you for any input!!
You say your old unit has no governor, because you have no hole in the side of the block. Are you sure that it may not have an air vane governor under the shroud, instead of a mechanical governor.
Hey Rivets,yeah im sorry yes it has a vane governor,i just meant it doesn't have the little stem that pops out from the casing,this new short block i have has the provision to install my old vane on it and work as good as the old one did,im just not sure what to do with the stem that the new one has,i hear in several places on the net about people just taking the sump out, removin the governor and just brazing the hole shut, thats why i asked the question, i really dont see anything whatsoever happening but i wanted to ask on this forum in case someone has done it before here,just curious i guess.
I guess i can be a little more specific,on a vertical shaft Briggs 90% of the time on older mowers you have a vane governor,on this new short block i have it has a provision for a vane governor but it also has close to the area where the brake is (under the flywheel) a little stem that comes out of the block where a mechanical governor (actuated by the crankshaft) is in place,i want to remove the sump,pull that lever out and the hole that will be left after that it would get brazed and everything happy,i dont wanna leave that governor there flopping with nothing attached,thats why it needs removed,the crank and the cam wont know the difference if that governor is there or not because the vane on top will take care of the new governing of the carb with the little springs and all that.
Technically its a step back, going from a governed carb to a vane carb but i have no clue what carb setup came on this short block because Briggs makes oodles of diferent models and although i have asked they havent been very fortcomihg so the easiet thing for me to do is remove the governor stem and plug the hole, this is just a little project i have, i have a perfectly running mower that starts on the first pull,lol
Hey Rivets, what is the criteria here for posting pictures? i know many forums have different requirements and i didn't wanna get in trouble this early, i have some pictures that might help explain myself a little better and again thank you for your input.
I don’t think there are any real rules, but I’ve only posted one in the eight years I’ve been here. Only thing I’ve heard is that you need to keep the pixels down, but I know engines, not computers.
the server stores thepictures on it so they are size capped
I use 12"x 10" @ 72 dpi which seem to come up a good size on the screen.
Drag & drop if you hit the picture icon in the navigation bar.
Or if you have the photos stored on a remote server then use the link icon to link them to the post.
Pictures posted with the picture icon will appear in the post
Pictures linked with not appear but may show a thumbnail or just the link
Photos taken with or downloaded driectly from a phone will often display rotated.
I hear ya, im a mechanical guy, not much on tech, lol,here we go, hes a picture that way i can show you better what im talking about, as you can see the one on the right is brand new.it shows that little stem on the left, the old one on the left has no stem, i have heard on thee net somewhere that you can't leave that stem just there, it has to be attached to something (like a governor,lol) so thats why i was wanting to take it out and braze the hole shut, thats where i'm at right now.
Hey Bertsmobile, sorry i had already posted the pic before i read your post,the picture belongs to me, i took it and i resize it by 50%, if this is not satisfactory let me know and ill make the changes needed per forum rules and thank you for your input in the matter, i appreciate it.
No problems
Some puicture applications just change the display size when you resize them so the file size remains the same
This is why it is good to change the resolution not just the size.
In any case yours displayed fine
If it were me I would buy a governor arm , link ord & spring set.
The mechanical governor is a much better system than the air vane
The carburettor is the same for both systems AFAIK
Then toss the air vane.
The only problem I can see with leaving the mechanical one there would be it dropping into the engine.
Not sure if it could as I am yet to pull one of these apart because that level of labour charges makes then an uneconomic repair so they either go back to the customer or get tossed into the "some day when I have nothing to do " pile.
That seem to be getting bigger all by itself.
You should be able to find a deceased engine with the mechanical bits on it without too much trouble all repair shops have a similar pile unless they are realists and toss then strait into the scrap metal bin.
Thank you much for your reply "some day when i have nothing to do" ha ha ha ha, thats pretty funny,yeah this whole thing is a experiment,i like doing weird things like this,lol, the carburetor that was on my old mower i believe uses the little spring and vane governor,i would have to find a carb that would use a governor like this one that on the new block,its basically a arm that goes up with the crank or cam and keeps a certain rpm on the carb,i tried to find the info on that and it was daunting experience because of the many models Briggs has but i think if i keep looking i might find it.
What i was wanting to do was to open the sump, remove that governor arm (like my old mower was) and then just plug that hole up and be done,i have pulled many of these apart and the "guts" on my old one and this new block i have are identical except for that arm sitting there pretty not attached to anything (at the moment) but on the other hand you are right,the mechanical governor is a much better system, for example this old mower im experimenting with was a 10J902 type 0342 code 06042555, with all this info i can go on the net and find a carb, a crank ,a piston etc, this block i have is part number 793347,that doesn't tell the parts people much, if someone gives me a mower number and says "hey dude, that new block you have came with this type of mower, then i can find the parts and make it run on this old mower im tinkering with, i just need a reference point.
Heck, with my luck this short block came only on snowblowers that were only sold in Wisconsin, ha ha ha ha
The carbs are the same
The only difference is there is a longer rod that goes from the governor arm to the carb. and the spring is different .
Check the parts diagrams .
If you were near here and not a $ 50 parcel away I would pop one in the post to you.
Governor arms do require replacement very often , the link rods do get lost so they are a bit thin .
Springs come out of a grab pack
After looking at the pictures, if you don’t want to spend the money I would still go will the air vane governor. No worries about leaking as it is a top mounted system. You can always go Bert’s method if you don’t like the outcome.
Wow thats true, i never thought about that since that oil sits at the bottom, doubtful it would just be jumping up and all that, Berst and Rivets, thank you guys for all your input!! Berts, also thank you for the offer.