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So I ran the engine yesterday and all went well. I installed a push button start and a new battery. Drove it to make sure it all ran fine. Later in the day I tried to crank it and it wouldn't move. I tried to spin in by hand and nothing. I can get it to move a quarter turn but it is like it is hitting something. I have done this with and without the spark plugs and and it makes no change. I'm wondering if something broke inside it because if it seized it shouldn't move at all if I'm correct. Was going to try some pb blaster to see if that helps. I checked the oil level and it is low but not empty.

top off oil level, remove spark plugs, rotate top of engine by hand, let us know how it goes, thanks, Mark

If you are having the hot weather there like we are in Wisconsin, a low oil level could be the cause of an internal seizure. Not enough oil getting to the upper bushings or bearings with excessive heat will do it very quickly.

So I can't believe I missed this but the magneto coil edged it's way to the flywheel. So tommorow going to reposition it as I think this was the issue.

find your model series and find the correct gap for your engine using a feeler gauge http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/briggs_fly_gap.asp'
if that doesnt work out, use a business or index card to set the gap.

So I took the magno off and it didn't solve the issue. I can get it to spin but it's like it's hitting something. I'm at a loss right now so I guess I will be taking it apart. Just gotta figure out how to get the flywheel off without a pulley.

Still trying to get the flywheel off but with no impact wrench it's a task. But I did find a piece of broken magnet so I believe that to be the issue. I so need a impact wrench

An old trick may work. Remove spark plug and put a shoestring or similar in the cylinder. Spin the flywheel counter clockwise till the piston tries to compress the string between itself and the head. This will sorta lock it in place to spin off the bolt.

MowLife said:

An old trick may work. Remove spark plug and put a shoestring or similar in the cylinder. Spin the flywheel counter clockwise till the piston tries to compress the string between itself and the head. This will sorta lock it in place to spin off the bolt.

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just about to post the same thing, this works! never failed me.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I got the bolt off. I got lucky and between the big breaker bar and it jammed up it finnaly popped free. gotta rent a puller for the flywheel as it's on there tight.ill keep ya posted on my findings. But ty for all the help so far.

When I get this off. How many magnets can I lose before I have to either replace them or get a new flywheel..

None
The magnets were put in before it was balanced
Take one out & it will be unbalanced.
You can pull the one exactly opposite if you want to maintian the balance.
Both Tary Fixes All & Donny Boy have U-Tube videos on replacing the magnets.
OTOH most small repair only work shops will have shelves full of good flywheels cause w can not bare to toss any good part out.

Ok ty. I'll see if I can get one. Not many repair shops around my area but maybe online.

So these magnets operate the alternator correct. I'm gonna have to replace that as the magnets shredded it. But I don't have it hooked up anyways so if I remove the magnets would it still run?

alternator keeps the battery charged, battery provides power for starting the mower. it might can run. but it'll be tough starting it

Bat are the magnets there for the magneto coil? I've read different to things on the net.

generally where the magneto (igniton coil) sits and is adjusted to within thousandths of the flywheel, the magnets are on that outer edge below (or above) the ring gear, the magnets for the alternator (generator) are under the flywheels inside edge.

Ok ty I'm putting it all back together now. Between heat and mosquito it sucks.lol but it's almost back now.

Smurfy76 said:

Ok ty. I'll see if I can get one. Not many repair shops around my area but maybe online.

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Where in Florida you from? I haven’t seen a area in Florida that don’t have a repair shop..we cut grass 9-12 months a year. Outer magnets are needed for the coil the inner ones can be removed but as you know it won’t charge battery or run lights.

Over by Wesley chapel area. There are shops but don't carry parts. Mainly for zero turn mowers. But it's back together but not starting. So I have spark. But my worry is compression.when it jammed with the magnets it broke the pegs for the alternator that holds the screws. I'm wondering since it left a hole if it's effecting the compression. Which means taking it apart again. A lil jbweld would plug it and I should have done that before I put it back but I was hoping that it wasn't part of the main engine. I tried starting fluid and that didn't work either. But at least it spins now so I grot that going.

Think this motor is going to nickel and dime you to where it’s not worth it. Personally I would look for a used replacement from Craigslist or similar.

I would if I could afford it. Out here people want a small fortune for one

Might as well buy another mower for same price.

Keep an eye on classified adds. Many people sell entire machines for 50 to 100 bucks with good motors but rest of mower in bad shape.

Yeah they sell bad machines for like 200 to 300 here

So she came to life but quick steel I guess wasn't fully cured so I had to take the flywheel off again and repatch the hole. I think it was my fault since I don't think I mixed enough. So I double mixed it and is now setting up. If that doesn't work I'll be trying some jb weld. But ait was nice to hear her running.

So keeping an update I ordered new keys as the key was sheared off so it's messing up the timing. Didn't notice it right off. but anytime it wants to stop raining would be awesome. On the bright side I'm a expert at getting the flywheel off. Lol.

So even though I can't now my lawn it's at least shiny and hot outside. So I finally got to mess with here to and she back to life. Good thing I ordered a 10 pack of keys because it sheared off like 4 of them. It was my fault as I thought the bolt was on tight but it came loose. So last time I made sure it didn't come loose. So ty for everyone that helped in this project. I can't wait to mow this grass but it's flooded right now so I have no choice. Only bad thing is I have to order a new carb as I broke the mixture screw because I closed it with a pair of vice grips on it. But at least she runs ????

Usually when you shear a key there is a tiny raised lip on the edge of the slot in the crankshaft which needs careful filing off.
If you shear a couple of keys then it is time to lap the flywheel.
Done the same as lapping valves but with a finer paste.
Usually Brasso will work but some times I have needed to resort to extra fine valve paste.
The key is not there to take any load it is just there to locate the flywheel in the proper place.
The taper does all of the holding and the strength of this depends upon a close fit between the two parts and the torque on the bolt

Ty for the info. Yeah the bolt I realized when I would tighten it after it would crank up I would have to tighten it up more. I thought it was tight but I was sadly mistaken. I was just wedging a screwdriver to hold it still when I would tighten it. Rookie mistake and I'm still learning but I locked a pair of vice grips on it and made sure it was tight.