Briggs and Stratton 10a902 - kick back when pulling starter rope

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sumdumgai

Forum Newbie
Hello. My first post here and hoping to get some expert advice. I have an old Poulan walk behind with a B&S 100900 series engine. The starter rope pulls easily for first foot or so and then gets hard to pull. Sometimes I get a strong kick back that almost pulls my fingers out of joint. I've pulled the flywheel and the pin is in place and not sheared. What else could be causing this kick back problem? Thanks.
 
No, the blade is not on. It's my son's mower and he took the blade off. Does the blade being off make a difference?
 
Yes, on pushmowers they calculate the weight of the blade along with the pushmower's lighter flywheel, other devices have a heavier cast iron flywheel.
 
Putting a new blade on did the trick. Started right up. Thanks. One more question, please. Do you know, or where can I find, the torque pattern and torque ft/lbs on the cylinder head bolts, and the torque ft/lbs on the blade bolt? Thanks again. It's a B&S 10A902-2139 engine.
 
sumdumgai said:
Putting a new blade on did the trick. Started right up. Thanks. One more question, please. Do you know, or where can I find, the torque pattern and torque ft/lbs on the cylinder head bolts, and the torque ft/lbs on the blade bolt? Thanks again. It's a B&S 10A902-2139 engine.
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Briggs and Stratton Cylinder Head Torques

Personally, just Smurf them down tight and don't worry about it much, we aren't working on a Space Shuttle here!!!!
 
I've seen those torque specs and used them, but I can't remember where. I'll try to check on it. Personally, I think over-torquing is a problem. I have worked on a lots of mowers and trimmers and whoever torqued it was either very strong, or they used an air wrench! I've had to go and buy special extended ratchets and exact fit sockets (not the serrated ones) to break loose the nut on blades and such. When working on the engine, be sure and remember to use loc tight as well.
 
bigjck said:
I've seen those torque specs and used them, but I can't remember where. I'll try to check on it. Personally, I think over-torquing is a problem. I have worked on a lots of mowers and trimmers and whoever torqued it was either very strong, or they used an air wrench! I've had to go and buy special extended ratchets and exact fit sockets (not the serrated ones) to break loose the nut on blades and such. When working on the engine, be sure and remember to use loc tight as well.
Click to expand...

Yah, those torque specs are general, and I have seen lotsa overtorquing. I have also seen lotsa bolts that twist off when you use a hand wrench
or socket, but an impact will bring them out easily.

I never resort to Loctite unless there is a known problem....
 
Thanks. I see where the cylinder head bolts get torqued to 140. But what about the torquing sequence? I know you're supposed to generally go opposite side to opposite side but I'd like to do it right.
 
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