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I have a Gravely ZT2048 with a 20hp briggs v twin it will run for about 3-5 minutes then die like you shut it off. It doesn't sputter or anything just dies. I don't think it is a coil because it has 1 per cylinder. Does this engine have an ignition module ? It acts like something electrical getting hot and breaking down. Any help would be appreciated.

Joey77 said:

I have a Gravely ZT2048 with a 20hp briggs v twin it will run for about 3-5 minutes then die like you shut it off. It doesn't sputter or anything just dies. I don't think it is a coil because it has 1 per cylinder. Does this engine have an ignition module ? It acts like something electrical getting hot and breaking down. Any help would be appreciated.

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The coil is the ignition module do a spark test,one of the coils could take both out, if that turns out ok, then check to see if the solenoid on the carb to see if it clicks.

Sounds like the carb solenoid to me.

I'd trace the wire to see if its compromised - seems there's a problem when the engine warms up. Does the solenoid wire run too close to anything hot? If it's shorting to ground the solenoid will shut off the fuel supply.

One thing to try is to do a continuity test on the solenoid wire at the point it connects to the carburetor. Shut off the engine with the key switch, turn it back on (without starting) and test the wire - it should be energized with about 12 volts. I'm thinking out loud here, but if everything else checks out and the wire is still dead there could potentially be a problem with the ignition switch as it serves as a central nervous system for Briggs engines. So maybe the next step would be to swap out he ignition (key) switch and see if the problem goes away.

I've been having a similar problem with a Briggs 16.5hp twin 2, I replaced the gas cap and it ran great until I shut it down for the night. Sounds strange, but it was a simple fix.

Invest in a pair of neon tube in line spark plug testers.( about $ 20.00 )
Put on on each spark plug and go mow.
When the engine stops have a look at both of the testers.
If there is no spark then unplug them both and check again.
If no spark again then the coils/modules are toast
If you get a spark then you have a safety switch problem

PS to stop the ower either turn it off and ow it to run dry or earth out the coil wires you disconnected.

Two quick cheap tests, loosen the gas cap to see if gas cap vent is the problem. No help, remove solenoid, depress plunger and wedge a tooth pick beside it to hold it depress, break off the tooth pick and re-install. The allows you to check solenoid and circuit without destroying solenoid as is often recommended. Still no help, disconnect the "kill" wire at the base of each coil. IF this helps, Kill wire harness has a defective diode.

Walt Conner