First of all, where do you live and what is the average temperature when you are trying to start the unit. Mower engines are built for warm weather and at temperatures below 50 degrees can be a bit temperamental. Second not having fresh fuel can contribute to hard starting. You might also check that the choke is fully closed when the unit is cold, may need an adjustment.
I live in south Florida and my hrx217 takes 2 to 3 pulls to start. 2 at the very minimum. Has never started on the 1st pull. My old mower had a Briggs and Stratton engine and it started 99 percent of the time on the 1st pull
Hello,
Remove the air cleaner and verify the choke is closing completely (cold) when you move the throttle lever to the choke position. If it does, and you still experience hard starting, I would back out the idle needle 1/8 to 1/4 turn. I agree a new mower shouldn't require 4 pulls to start.
Did you buy the mower from a lawnmower dealer? A dealer is more likely to assemble the mower and verify it's working correctly. Probably not from a big box store.
Regards
Jeff
Yes, my mower has been fantastic so far. Plenty of power, love the self propel. Only other issue I have is with the rear wheel adjusters. They are horrible. Also, I wouldn't consider it a problem worth taking to dealer that the mower dosen't start on the 1st pull. I just consider it normal. I changed my oil after 5 hours, and have only used non ethanol gas in it. Makes no difference when starting.
As far as rear height adjusters being stiff to change height. Every 150 hours (check manual) you should do rear height adjuster bushings and pinion gear and spring and clean transmission axle with scotch bright type pad and put Fresh grease when putting all back together. Pulls way smoother backwards and height adjusters move easier. If you wash mower too much it’s a problem if you don’t clean it out enough it’s a problem. Air compressor is your friend. There are some good YouTube videos out there on more so the Honda hrr216 but process is basically the same. I actually like using amsoil nlgi #2 grease all purpose it’s red synthetic. Works well maybe better then the Honda grease. Just my experience. hope this helps.Yes, my mower has been fantastic so far. Plenty of power, love the self propel. Only other issue I have is with the rear wheel adjusters. They are horrible. Also, I wouldn't consider it a problem worth taking to dealer that the mower dosen't start on the 1st pull. I just consider it normal. I changed my oil after 5 hours, and have only used non ethanol gas in it. Makes no difference when starting.
226 microns is like running the fuel through a red shop rag.You're fortunate. I bought a new honda generator and after about 2 hours of operation I had to spend 200 at a dealer to get the carb cleaned. No warranty. I filter my FRESH gas through a 226 micron filter when filling the tank. The only sure way I've found an engine will start cold on the 1st pull is to prime it by putting a 1/4 -1/2 teaspoon of gas directly in the carb air intake.
No factual evidence that any Amsoil grease or oil is better than any other. I would put Walmart's Supertech grease against Amsoil any time. This is a lawn mower we are talking about. So using synthetic anything is, well, it's your money.As far as rear height adjusters being stiff to change height. Every 150 hours (check manual) you should do rear height adjuster bushings and pinion gear and spring and clean transmission axle with scotch bright type pad and put Fresh grease when putting all back together. Pulls way smoother backwards and height adjusters move easier. If you wash mower too much it’s a problem if you don’t clean it out enough it’s a problem. Air compressor is your friend. There are some good YouTube videos out there on more so the Honda hrr216 but process is basically the same. I actually like using amsoil nlgi #2 grease all purpose it’s red synthetic. Works well maybe better then the Honda grease. Just my experience. hope this helps.
I use nothing to clean mine. Still cuts perfect every time.My HRX217HYA is about 1.5 months old and never starts on the first pull, but almost always starts on the 2nd pull. This is the 3rd HRX I've owned and they seem to be better designed than previously. In addition to the more powerful 200cc engine, one of the new features I appreciate the most is the larger diameter gas filler neck. I can finally easily see the gas level as I'm filling it, and have yet to have spill caused by overfilling the tank. The older style tank's filler neck was too narrow to easily observe the level of gas while filling it. I too have switched over to "recreational gas", i.e, ethanol-free.
The oil filler has also changed a little from the previous design. I have now switched to using an oil extractor that suctions out the old oil. No more mess or having to recruit my wife to hold a container while tipping the mower to dump the old oil out.
Finally, I've also found that the rear wheel height adjustment is still difficult to operate, particularly the right rear wheel. I've found the solution to be to insert a dandelion digger tool or a similarly long (approx 12") screwdriver between the body of mower and the adjuster arm. Pry the adjuster arm out of the current height slot and slide it to the new slot while keeping pressure on the adjuster arm. This makes it a lot easier to adjust the wheel height. See the picture attached below.
View attachment 52777
I still find that damp grass can stick to the underside of the nexite deck, but have learned to keep it clean as possible. The twin blades do tend to get a lot of grass residue build up on them, which may inhibit the "lift" generated by the upper blade. I used to use paint scrapers or spackling knives to scrape this residue off the blades -- an unpleasant and tedious task at best, and would usually result in the blades being scratched and then somewhat rusty. I have now started using a blade cleaner I use for my miter saw blade to remove the grass resin and residue. I leave the blades soak in the solution for at least a half hour or more, then gently remove any remaining crud with a plastic scraper, an old toothbrush and an old paintbrush. The blades come out looking like new, and I believe they'll provide a better cut when they're clean.
The container I use is a food service tray container made of Delfin plastic, which is extremely durable and is a perfect size for the blades (24"L x 6"W x 2"H). It was ~$49 online with a part # 16658 (search Hubert Delfin 16658). Here's a couple of pictures of the during and after (didn't think to take before pics!):
View attachment 52778
View attachment 52779
I soak mine in hot soapy water for a while then clean them like you are doing. Then I inspect blades and then sharpen them and balance them. Yes the Honda blades even when cutting in dry grass does get green grass build up on the blades. I will say that it’s a good idea the remove grass build up when taking blades off to inspect for any small fractures and the grass build up can and does throw the balance off. Fact. Keep doing what your doing. some would say might be over kill but you keep doing your thing.My HRX217HYA is about 1.5 months old and never starts on the first pull, but almost always starts on the 2nd pull. This is the 3rd HRX I've owned and they seem to be better designed than previously. In addition to the more powerful 200cc engine, one of the new features I appreciate the most is the larger diameter gas filler neck. I can finally easily see the gas level as I'm filling it, and have yet to have spill caused by overfilling the tank. The older style tank's filler neck was too narrow to easily observe the level of gas while filling it. I too have switched over to "recreational gas", i.e, ethanol-free.
The oil filler has also changed a little from the previous design. I have now switched to using an oil extractor that suctions out the old oil. No more mess or having to recruit my wife to hold a container while tipping the mower to dump the old oil out.
Finally, I've also found that the rear wheel height adjustment is still difficult to operate, particularly the right rear wheel. I've found the solution to be to insert a dandelion digger tool or a similarly long (approx 12") screwdriver between the body of mower and the adjuster arm. Pry the adjuster arm out of the current height slot and slide it to the new slot while keeping pressure on the adjuster arm. This makes it a lot easier to adjust the wheel height. See the picture attached below.
View attachment 52777
I still find that damp grass can stick to the underside of the nexite deck, but have learned to keep it clean as possible. The twin blades do tend to get a lot of grass residue build up on them, which may inhibit the "lift" generated by the upper blade. I used to use paint scrapers or spackling knives to scrape this residue off the blades -- an unpleasant and tedious task at best, and would usually result in the blades being scratched and then somewhat rusty. I have now started using a blade cleaner I use for my miter saw blade to remove the grass resin and residue. I leave the blades soak in the solution for at least a half hour or more, then gently remove any remaining crud with a plastic scraper, an old toothbrush and an old paintbrush. The blades come out looking like new, and I believe they'll provide a better cut when they're clean.
The container I use is a food service tray container made of Delfin plastic, which is extremely durable and is a perfect size for the blades (24"L x 6"W x 2"H). It was ~$49 online with a part # 16658 (search Hubert Delfin 16658). Here's a couple of pictures of the during and after (didn't think to take before pics!):
View attachment 52778
View attachment 52779
All newer mowers are good for up to 15% of good, fresh ethanol gas, says so right on the fuel caps ...it also depends on where and how the mower is stored.But where do you find Ethanol-free 87 octane fuel? Locally they only sell Ethanol-free in 90 octane. I'll deal with the 90 octane instead of ethanol damage.
I typed that wrong...it's 10% not 15%.....my bad!All newer mowers are good for up to 15% of good, fresh ethanol gas, says so right on the fuel caps ...it also depends on where and how the mower is stored.
That's all true but......I call that, "job security"Have you guys seen a mower carb that looks like someone poured sulfuric acid inside it? On these used mowers I get, you can tell if they ran E10 or not. I cringe when I get a new to me used rider and open the carb up. Praying heavily for no E10. These rider carbs get pretty pricey compared to a push mower. I've had some carbs where you couldn't even get the main jets out and the float pin area was all eaten up from corrosion/water/E10. I exaggerate a LOT but that sulfuric acid comment was no joke.
slomo
So, I bought a HRX217 with the Easy Start auto-choke less than a month ago. I've used it 4 times- every time it has taken AT LEAST 2 pulls to get it started. Today it took 4. I always thought Hondas were one pull from cold start. I see nothing in the manual about having to pull multiple times. Is it common in the HRX with auto choke to have to pull multiple times to get it going? It starts back up on the first pull after the engine is warm. Does the choke just need to get "broken in" from a few uses to get it to start up on the first pull when cold?
Just trying to figure out if this is normal behavior. Kinda disappointed a $600.00 push mower isn't starting up on the first try.
Thanks in advance
I have the same issue each fall and spring when it is colder and when in low 40's needed to use starting fluid. The solution is easy. Very slowly pull the rope all the way out two or three times. This appears to manually prime the carburetor. Then pull hard as you normally would it mine always starts on the first hard pull!!!!So, I bought a HRX217 with the Easy Start auto-choke less than a month ago. I've used it 4 times- every time it has taken AT LEAST 2 pulls to get it started. Today it took 4. I always thought Hondas were one pull from cold start. I see nothing in the manual about having to pull multiple times. Is it common in the HRX with auto choke to have to pull multiple times to get it going? It starts back up on the first pull after the engine is warm. Does the choke just need to get "broken in" from a few uses to get it to start up on the first pull when cold?
Just trying to figure out if this is normal behavior. Kinda disappointed a $600.00 push mower isn't starting up on the first try.
Thanks in advance
EPA requirements make the mowers run a lot leaner and that includes the enriching circuits on start up.I’ve noticed this with my HRX. My HRR216 with the GVC160 was always one pull but the HRX trends towards two pulls. I do run the carb out of fuel after every mow and noticed last time that turning the fuel back to on a few minutes (rather than seconds) before start allowed me a one pull start.
Maybe something to try.