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Hi all,
Just fired up my blower for the first time this year and noticed gas leaking everywhere. Have included a few photos and was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction to troubleshoot this leak. Should I disassemble the whole machine or....?? As you can see the lower protion of the blower is badly stained from the gas.
Any help or guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks

The carburetor is likely the culprit. You will need to remove the covers to get to it.

Thx Fish....should I just replace the carb as I'm not that comfortable taking the carb apart? What do you think would be wrong with the carb? A stuck float or ??

You say you "fired it up". Does this mean it srarted and ran fine just dumped fuel out of it or does it mean you went to start it and fuel was running out?

It fired up and ran and the fuel was leaking out while it ran.

Check all the fuel lines. If it runs good may not be the carb.

Thx Hammer....haven't had a chance today but will check them tomorrow.

>> I've had to replace the fuel lines on my Stihl saw before. They simply cracked open after several years. I used a universal fuel line kit from Lowes.

>> Don't know if this is true of blowers, but on the saw (since they can be operated in several positions) there is a float bowl breather hose, about 10" long. Whenever that hose pops off the carb, the fuel will leak from the unit in several positions. This happened so often during early ownership that I finally made a tiny hose clamp.

The gas we run eats the hoses.

So guys.....here's the update.
Took the thing apart today and checked the fuel hose....nothing found.
tried to start it afterwards and gas spewing everywhere again.
Took the plug out and pulled the starter.....gas spewing out of the cylinder head plug hole!
Cylinder head and crank full of gas....hydrolocked.
Took the carb apart, cleaned it a little and re assembled....nothing found.
Tried to start again.....spark evident.....will not start but fuel spewing has stopped....no leaks.
Put small amount of gas in cylinder through plug hole...still won't start.
After attempting to start for 1/2 hour have given up.

Surely, with a spark and a small amount of fuel in the cylinder the thing should at least fire briefly??
Looking for what to do next....is it time for a new carb or is that even the issue?
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks

Carb issue flooding the engine.

How did you "check" the fuel hoses? A visual or under pressure?

slomo

Was this out on the -29F weather a few weeks ago?

slomo

The carb on a 2 stroke engine has two "flapper " valves that serve as fuel pump and feed for the engine. After a few years these valves can get brittle to a point that they don't seal the gas anymore. You have two options. (1) rebuild the carburetor. or (2) Replace the carb. The fact that the engine got "hydro locked" is a fairly good indication that the flapper valves ( my term) are bad and no longer sealing. Alcohol based fuel is very hard on fuel lines and carburetors.

Slomo....just a visual check, and no, unit stored inside an insulated shop.
wolfey...would it be a major job to rebuild the carb? I'm game, but have never done that before....some say cheaper and quicker to just put on a new carb but interested in what you think? Downside of a new carb is it will be from China most likely, and I'm with the rest on their quality control!
Is the "flapper valve" what I call the diapghram....the rubber seal that pushes up and down in the centre of the carb when you take the cover plate off?

The diaphragm is what I was talking about. There are two flapper valves that seal on one side when the other is open and vice versa. They aren't difficult to rebuild as long as you watch the order of disassembly closely. ( take pictures) The rebuild kit will probably fix the problem, and you are correct in assuming that a new carb will be made in China unless you pick one up from the dealer. I would be very tempted to buy the rebuild kit from a dealer also so you are guaranteed the correct one.

wolfey01....is this what I need?

trooper1954 said:

So guys.....here's the update.
Took the thing apart today and checked the fuel hose....nothing found.
tried to start it afterwards and gas spewing everywhere again.
Took the plug out and pulled the starter.....gas spewing out of the cylinder head plug hole!
Cylinder head and crank full of gas....hydrolocked.
Took the carb apart, cleaned it a little and re assembled....nothing found.
Tried to start again.....spark evident.....will not start but fuel spewing has stopped....no leaks.
Put small amount of gas in cylinder through plug hole...still won't start.
After attempting to start for 1/2 hour have given up.

Surely, with a spark and a small amount of fuel in the cylinder the thing should at least fire briefly??
Looking for what to do next....is it time for a new carb or is that even the issue?
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks

Click to expand...

Your engine is badly flooded, and will take some doing to get it aired out enough to start.

Dump out all of the fuel, and remove the plug, and pull the rope for several dozen times. Then put the plug back on. and hook it all up and try to get it to start, still not putting any fuel in, with the throttle control squeezed/open. Once it gets dried out enough, it will start and run until the excess fuel is burned off.
Then put some fresh fuel in, and try to start as normal.

Thx fish...this actually what I did at the same time as I took the carb off....tried for several minutes to start it but no go. I think my next step has to be to take the carb off, give it a thoro cleaning and install a carb kit and go from there?
I guess I should check the vent on the fuel cap also? Just thinking here......

A flooded engine takes a lot more drying than one would think.

Thx Fish....I'll take the plug out and pull a few dozen times.....then leave it overnight in the heated shop upside down.
Then another try tomorrow I guess.

trooper1954 said:

wolfey01....is this what I need?View attachment 55661

Click to expand...

That is exactly what you need. The problem lies either in the tan colored membrane with the two flaps I was talking about or the needle valve is sticking. both items are in that kit. like I said pay close attention to the disassembly and you should see good results. Good Luck!

Thx wolfey01....going to get the kit as soon as I've given the unit a chance to thoroughly dry out....will then try it and even if it starts I think I'll go ahead with the kit.
Appreciate the help.

trooper1954 said:

Thx Fish....I'll take the plug out and pull a few dozen times.....then leave it overnight in the heated shop upside down.
Then another try tomorrow I guess.

Click to expand...

To clear a flodded 2 stroke remove the spark pkug. Remove the fuel line from the carb. Turn the unit so the spark plug hole is facing down. Hold the throttle wide open and pull the atarter rope vigorously about 2 dozen times. This will clear the cranksmcase of fuel.

Plug is fouled now.

Born2Mow.....thx.....I've come this far so will be putting in a carb kit...and a new plug!

I have one other question....for the last little while before this incident every few pulls on the starter it would really stick and hurt my hand! Now, even with the fuel empty, when I put in the plug and pull it does it every few pulls....and I mean really jams! Any ideas as to what"s causing this? Can't be hydrolocked as theres no fuel.

Just to add to the above...after breaking two woodruff keys last year I finally took it into the repair shop.....the flywheel was scored so it currently has a new flywheel and key....don't think these are the problem.

And the latest update....new plug installed,new carb. kit installed....won't start!!!! And still wants to bite me once in awhile!!!!

Anyone have any advice or suggestions as to what I try next? I just don't understand why the starter cord is acting up even after the crank has been drained of fuel?

It still has excess fuel in the crankcase.

Whats the best way to get that out Fish? Should I take the machine apart? I thought it had fully dried out after I did the last draining.

trooper1954 said:

Whats the best way to get that out Fish? Should I take the machine apart? I thought it had fully dried out after I did the last draining.

Click to expand...

Take the plug out and remove all of the fuel, pull the rope many many times, even with the machine upside down, then leave it dry in the sun a while. Then pull some more.

Then put the plug back in when you are sure it is dry, but no fuel. Then pull the rope with the throttle held wide open, and try to get it to hit. You will either have it aired out enough, or getting close. Eventually, it should start and run until the excess fuel is burned off.
If not, keep the fuel out of the tank, as your main goal is to see if it will eventually run then die, then you will know that your problem is fuel/carb related only. Once you do get it to do this, then add some fuel and try to start as normal, it may just run. If it floods again, then you need to go back into the carb, or replace it.
At any rate, it takes a whole lot of drying out one that was badly flooded.

Thanks Fish.....have done all of the above....emptied the fuel, took the plug out, and pulled the cord 250 times ( yes....I counted) over the course of an hour, and then left the machine upside down in the sun for several hours.
Put the plug back in, no fuel, but the unit will not fire. Can I assume that there now isn't sufficient fuel vapor left to cause it to fire, and proceed with maybe a few drops of gas in the spark plug hole and then re-try?
Thanks

Yes, if you are sure that it is totally dried out, put in a squirt, with the tank still empty, and just try to get it to fire. If it does, and runs until the prime is burned off, then you will know that it is all fuel related. If you cannot get it to fire, then you likely have additional problems.
But get it to fire before adding any gas to the tank, just try to get it to fire first.

Absolutely will not fire with a small syringe of gas put in.....and the pull cord is still jamming really badly every few pulls :-(
Is there a next step, or is this now toast? I'm thinking there's something wrong with the crank.

Did it jam while trying to start while drying it out?
Or after you put in a squirt of fuel?

I have an old trimmer that gets flooded from time to time. It is a bear to get it dried out again.
If it was indeed totally dried out, and you cannot get it to fire after a light squirt of fuel, then something else must be wrong.

After I put in the squirt of fuel.....while I was cranking to dry it out with no plug in it pulled fine.....what else could be wrong?

I mean, with the plug in, and it pretty much dry. Did it ever yank the cord then. Too much fuel will cause it to happen.

While I was trying to fire it up after drying, with no fuel in it wasn't yanking.

It is called "hydro-locking", happens when an engine is flooded badly.
It cannot compress pure fluid.

Thx Fish....I realise that...but don't understand why after a really thorough draining and drying this happens with such a tiny amount of gas? Should I take it into a repair shop....and if so, what can they do to prevent this happening again?

Try this:
Take the plug out and pull the rope a couple dozen times with sparkplug hole facing down. Put plug back in and do NOT choke it and pull rope a couple times. You should just feel normal compression. Now spray a small amout like a quarter of a second of starting fluid in the carb throat. Hold throttle wide open ad try to start. It should fire up for about a second or so. If it does not fire at all either no spark, low compression, crankcase leak or intake air leak. I don't like putting liquid fuel in the spark plug hole of small 2 strokes. It is not vaporized and it only take a little to wet the plug and hydro lock it.
$0.02 worth.

Thx Hammer....lost patience with f%^$#ng around with it.....gone to the repair shop!! Enough's enuff!!

Hi guys....just to follow up....just got the call from the repair shop.....the crank needs replacing and apparently they are no longer made. Anyone any ideas if a crank from something else would fit?
Thanks

What is wrong with the crank?

It is still in the price list, but you wouldn't want it.

STIHL 41160300400 289.49

Thx Fish....sorry .....I didn't ask what exactly was wrong with the crank, but will do when I pick it up.
I was just curious if the crank from a different model would fit, but at that price I guess the blower is toast! Shame, as it's been a great machine and in the last little while I've spent probably $200 on it.....oh well!!

Well, not to say anything about the guys at that shop, but they are probably just trying to get out of working on it.
It is @ 20 years old or so.

Here are the models that use that crank.

Fish....obviously a difficult question without knowing what exactly is wrong with the crank, but is a crank fixable, or something that just simply gets replaced?

Fish said:

Well, not to say anything about the guys at that shop, but they are probably just trying to get out of working on it.
It is @ 20 years old or so.

Click to expand...

I agree with fish. They gave it the 5 minute lookover and figured you wouldn't want to spend the money to troubleshoot it so "it needs a crank". Leave it out by the curb i will be by to pick it up up.?

But Hammer....in all honesty we did try just about everything else before I took it in....what else could it be if not the crank, and when I get it back is it worth tearing it apart to check? The cost of a new crank is $250....unless I can find a used bblower and get the parts off it. Maybe that $250 is better spent going towards a new blower? Just my view

I've found a replacement crank in Australia that I could get to Canada for less than $100 by mail...take two weeks but best price I can find....probably made in CHI......NA!

Also, when I get this home how would I go about determining if it is indeed the crank that's the original problem... and is the crank replacement a job I could do if I've never done it before? Just trying to work out if this would all be worth it?

Things that can go wrong with the crank assy. The crankpin bearing goes bad from lack of oil and overheating. Crank surfaces where case bearings are go bad because bearing seized and spun on shaft. Crank surfaces where case seals ride are damaged and won't seal. End taper and threads damaged by improper servicing. If you take off the flywheel and remove the spark plug and then turn the engine slowly and feel for any play in the case bearings or roughness. You can't look at crank seals and see if they are bad. You need to do a pressure and vacum test the crankcase to check them.

Spend the money and get a new blower.