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With a extra vise a quick jig to hold a blade so the hand grinder can grind on the top edge . This blade gets about 30° and three 2 xs gives that angle close enough .

BTW , this is a original J D blade from a 350X and it's no harder to file than mild steel . So much for heat treatment .

Wish there was an esy way to get the blades off the nmower deck. as it it, I have to jack up the tractor with a hyd floor jack. use a large 1/2 wrachet with socket and a motorcycle fork tube for toqure and cant reach the middle blade as I dont have ape arms. Usually get lasy and dont sharpen but maybe every 2 weeks and the blades are terrible quality steel that wont hold an edge when your running over pine cones and branches and Raspery bushs and is typical. ready to build a wood ramp to drive the lawn mower on so I can just crawl under it when its not to muddy to change blades. Be sure to sharpen them OUTSIDE! Not in your basement where sparks can cause fires and explosions!

SeniorCitizen said:

View attachment 68904With a extra vise a quick jig to hold a blade so the hand grinder can grind on the top edge . This blade gets about 30° and three 2 xs gives that angle close enough .

BTW , this is a original J D blade from a 350X and it's no harder to file than mild steel . So much for heat treatment .

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I have only found one company that made proper heat treated blade and I dont have the old mower that they fit on anymore. Soulution. Make a Burn Barrel for your yard and heat treat the new blades yourself. you can measuire the temp of the steel and then quence in a 5 gallon bucket of used motor oil then sharpen them. Might want to do a dozen at a time as its another yard maintenance task thats a pain in the butt.