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I have a Craftsman Kholer Pro 20 V Twin riding lawn tractor, roughly mid 90s model. The engine is running fine and the blade is working only the FIRST time I turn it on. If I cut for a while, then stop the blade or engine, when I try to turn the blade back on I hear a clicking noise but the blade does not turn. It sounds like something is engaging when I flip the switch, but maybe not all the way. It's the same sound turning the blade on would make if the engine were not running. Sometime if I jiggle the switch enough it will come back on, but not always (I've already replaced the switch and the connections are solid. That wasn't it). If I cut again another day it will work again on the first time only.

I completely rewired this mower a few years ago. There are no safeties at all. Only a simple circuit from the battery to a start button to the starter, and another from the battery to a switch to the blade. It has worked fine for about three years that way, then last summer I had to put up with this. Any ideas what part needs fixed/replaced?

Did you run a wire from the stator to the battery for charging the battery?

Not sure from the information you provided if the blade control is an electronic clutch or not but if so it sounds like it is going out, can you check the circuit there with a meter? Also know that switches can and do go out even if fairly new. Can you put a meter on the switch and see what power is going through it when you operate it? Intermittent electrical issues are a pain to figure out. Let us know what you find.
Tom

BlazNT said:

Did you run a wire from the stator to the battery for charging the battery?

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Yes. It's been a few years so I forgot the exact configuration. Point is that there are no safeties to be at fault. Engine starts, runs, and battery charges fine.

Pumper54 said:

Not sure from the information you provided if the blade control is an electronic clutch or not but if so it sounds like it is going out, can you check the circuit there with a meter? Also know that switches can and do go out even if fairly new. Can you put a meter on the switch and see what power is going through it when you operate it? Intermittent electrical issues are a pain to figure out. Let us know what you find.
Tom

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I will check both of these. How should I check the clutch? Am I just checking that there is 12v present when it is switched on? And if there is, does that indicate that the clutch is bad?

Thanks.

Steps I would take is:
1. Check battery voltage 12 or better while running.
2. Voltage at switch HOT side
3. Voltage at switch OUT side when in ON position
4. Check to see if there is power getting to the clutch and if so how many volts, not sure what the requirements are for one to operate but I am guessing 12 volts.
5. If you are getting that, I would check WITH THE MOWER NOT RUNNING to see if you can see or hear movement in the clutch pack when you move the switch.

Frankly I think a mower that is 20 years (?) old with an electronic clutch might be due for a new one.

Tom

Thanks, I'll check these things tomorrow. I was trying to do some more research and found info about adjusting the PTO clutch. Is this the PTO clutch or is that something else?

I am not sure but most likely that is the PTO clutch. Most are electrical but some of the older mowers are a manual set up using idler pullers to engage the blades. I have one mower with an electrical clutch and one with a manual idler pulley set up. Both have good and bad points to them. Can you post the model number of the mower so everyone can be a bit clearer on just we are talking about. There have been so many Craftsmen mowers over the years, model number, engine number and pictures if possible make figuring out stuff a lot simpler. Hope you get it figured out.
Tom

It has an electronic switch to turn it on, so I'm assuming that means it's an electronic PTO clutch. I will definitely post some pics tomorrow when I work on it. Unfortunately I can't find the mower model number. The sticker under the hood is rubbed off to the point that it can't be read. Maybe I'll find it printed somewhere else when I clean it up tomorrow.

Dradis said:

It has an electronic switch to turn it on, so I'm assuming that means it's an electronic PTO clutch. I will definitely post some pics tomorrow when I work on it. Unfortunately I can't find the mower model number. The sticker under the hood is rubbed off to the point that it can't be read. Maybe I'll find it printed somewhere else when I clean it up tomorrow.

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I haven't done a lot of work on PTO's, but have read that a low battery can cause them to not work right, or even come on. Even if the battery is strong enough to crank the engine, it still needs more juice to keep the PTO engaged. Hope this helps.

Gap the clutch air space. There are procedures all over the net for doing that. As always with the internet, some procedures may be correct and more incorrect so no guarantees, just take your chances like everyone else does.

hrdman2luv said:

I haven't done a lot of work on PTO's, but have read that a low battery can cause them to not work right, or even come on. Even if the battery is strong enough to crank the engine, it still needs more juice to keep the PTO engaged. Hope this helps.

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I replaced the battery late last season with the biggest lawn battery I could get. It didn't change the problem.

SeniorCitizen said:

Gap the clutch air space. There are procedures all over the net for doing that. As always with the internet, some procedures may be correct and more incorrect so no guarantees, just take your chances like everyone else does.

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Look like this is what you're talking about. Giving this a shot today. https://youtu.be/wH9tZl6GzE0

Thanks for all the help. Y'all are always great. I'll update soon.

For the PTO to work you need to have the stator working. You need to have around 13 volts at the battery at wide open throttle. You need to check that first.

ok, I checked the voltage at the switch, proper 12+ volts at the hot side and the switched side when switched on. So far I was unable to check at the PTO because it was too dirty to get a contact. I'll check that soon. Heres some pics of my mower and PTO clutch. I know its not pretty, but it was free and has done the job well for a few years. I'm hoping to get a few more.

Free is good. Looking at the clutch pack you might be in the market for a new one if the adjustment doesn't work.
Tom

I think this is a good sign! When I connect to 12v I hear a click, and another when I disconnect. Without 12v, the pully is nearly locked. With 12v it turns easily. Sorry for the very poor quality video. It was kind of a three handed job.

https://youtu.be/1Dz6yh_QBnU

I think that may have done the trick. I didn't actually get to mow today because the tires and the belts were shot. With the deck still off, I fired up the engine and flipped the switch. PTO pulley turned just fine. I let it run for 5-10 minutes and the switch continued to work. Fingers crossed that this problem is done. Up next: tires and belts.

Did you set the air gap?

Not exactly. I don't have any feeler gauges, but I read somewhere to try a quarter turn clockwise if you don't have gauges. That seems to have worked. If it doesn't, I'll get gauges and set it more precisely.

And check your alternator output.
You should see 12.5 V or better at the battery .
when running at full speed and the blades spinning you should see better than 13V at the battery .
If not you are not recharging the battery and you are running the battery down when mowing.
Electric PTO's pull 3 to 5 amps.