It'd be nice to be able to keep the chute of my new (used) 52" TC 2 raised while storing it in the garage and occasionally be able to raise it while mowing. I have a couple of staked trees in the backyard that are spaced so that the chute needs to be raised. I was thinking of drilling a hole in the end of the chute and attaching a bungee that I could use to raise and lower it but I'm interested in hearing if anyone else has a more elegant solution?
You can get an advance chute system as well has a handle with a block plate.
#4
mcdonell
I bolted a limp wire on the chute and the other end is tied around the right steering handle. For quick raising of the chute, I just grab the wire. If I want to mow with the chute up, I wrap the wire one time around the mower clutch switch. A red neck approach but it works. I'm hoping someone has a better idea that doesnt cost a hundred dollars or more..
Sounds like a good and inexpensive solution! A couple nail plates (top and bottom), a couple bolts, a few feet of vinyl coated steel cable, and a couple ferrules. Maybe 15 minutes of time and about $10!
I hear ya - I'm not interested in spending lots of money either. I'm going to give bertsmobile1's suggestion a try - it seems like it will work and hold up over time and just as importantly be inexpensive!
Not quite what I was visualizing, but if you are like me you have a box full of those truss plates slowly rusting away go for it.
Use domed bolts fitted from the underside to reduce the things for clippings to hang up on.
A 1/2 nut on the hook under the chute so there is a minimum protrusion into the discharge then a lock nut on the top.
If you want to be anal, stake the lower nut so it won't vibrate off.
The trick is to use a stick pushing into the underside of the chute to find a spot where the lift wire will be pulling in the best direction with respect to the shape of the chute & how it swings out of the way.
One customer used a rope that ran across the foot well so when he needed to raise the chute while mowing he pushes the rope with his foot .
There is a bolt in the side rail for the rope to run against and he also put a cleat there so he can hook the chute up .
For my John Deere X734, I just drilled a hole in the chute in as far as the bungee hook would allow, maybe an inch, and hook the other end on a slot in the floor board (for storage) never had a problem. On my Scag, I hook one end on a cable that runs from front to back and hook the other end on the chute with no hole and it stays....I may drill a hole if necessary...so far so good...just for storage though. Remember the chute is there for a reason.....if the chute is up, the blade is exposed, etc. I get what you want to do though. I see the eyebolt as a solution for you....I think all you would need is fender washers though....not a big plate....just another thought. EB
#10
Sweats
I've been using a bungee and two holes in the chute since day one, two years ago. The only difference for me is that I usually mow with the chute up but put it down sometimes when I don't want clippings all over the place. Then, when I want it up again, I hold the bungee out at arm's length and lower it until it hooks the chute (almost always on the first try too, and I'm not real coordinated). Once I pull the chute up where everything's safe, I put the bungee hook ends back in the holes and there you have it. Yes, this whole operation happens while seated and yes, it's more simple even than it sounds. I'm not sure about chute chunks that were mentioned in a previous post. It hasn't happened to mine yet and doesn't appear like it's going to happen any time soon.
#11
cpurvis
Eye bolt with fender washers on the chute, thin cord with strategically place fixed loop in the middle to hook over gear speed selector and loose end tied to seat springs to keep loose rope out of the mower and wheels . This is on a Cub Cadet 2140 but the same principle works with all.
