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Battery not charging, stator?

#1

G

gamecock66

I have a 22hp OHV B&S engine on my 2005 Husqvarna lawn tractor. The battery stopped charging but it is a good battery and holds a charge when charged. I tested the volts on each side of the 2 wires coming out of the stator. I got a reading on the AC but barely anything on the DC. Does this indicate a bad stator? I pulled the flywheel and cleaned the stator contacts and am about to put it back together and try again. Is there a way to bench test a stator? If it is not the stator what else could it be? I can cut my whole yard as long as I charge the battery first but by the time I am about finished the battery has dropped enough to where the electric clutch will not stay engaged.

Ideas??
Thanks
Wade


#2

K

KennyV

This is a guide to B&S charging system...: http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/briggs/briggswiringexplanation.pdf
You should be able to find your problem following it.
Do Not operate the clutch without a working charging system, You will burn, (friction burn), your clutch out if it is not getting enough current to remain tightly engaged... :smile:KennyV


#3

O

OLBIKER

What is the DC Voltage to the battery while running???You need at least 13.00 volts under load to charge and run it.You can check the ohms on the stator by checking while not running.If you put the red lead on a terminal and ground you should get a reading of about 1.5. f it reads nothing your stator is faulty.Your AC voltage while running should show 28 Volts or more.Probably closer to 40 at high RPM.If the voltage is good its your VR.


#4

G

gamecock66

thanks guys. I pulled the model number and was hoping you all could tell me what part # I need for the alternator and the voltage regulator.

The motor is one of these. My engine cover does not have the number after "E". If it helps it is a B&S 22 ELS 656.
40H777-0241-E1
40H777-0241-E2


Thanks
Wade


#5

Rokon

Rokon

This is a guide to B&S charging system...: http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/briggs/briggswiringexplanation.pdf
You should be able to find your problem following it.
Do Not operate the clutch without a working charging system, You will burn, (friction burn), your clutch out if it is not getting enough current to remain tightly engaged... :smile:KennyV

Bookmarked!! :thumbsup:


#6

G

gamecock66

Hi all,
Still having issues but I think a lot of this is my on inexperience. When checking the 2 black wires coming from the stator which side is DC and which is AC? I connect the multi meter black probe to a good ground and then check the 2 wires with the red probe correct?
With AC setting how much AC should I see and from which side?
With DC setting how much DC should I see and from which side?

I have an analog meter and am clueless on how to read it. I need to get a digital one at some point.

Also,
Here is my rectifier. Is there a way to check it with a meter? Is there a diode in the red wire? Sevral sites have mentioned bad diodes but I don't see where my tractor has one.

Part # is 394890

Clover-20130726-00164.jpg

Clover-20130726-00165.jpg


#7

EngineMan

EngineMan

Hi all,
Still having issues but I think a lot of this is my on inexperience. When checking the 2 black wires coming from the stator which side is DC and which is AC? I connect the multi meter black probe to a good ground and then check the 2 wires with the red probe correct?
With AC setting how much AC should I see and from which side?
With DC setting how much DC should I see and from which side?

I have an analog meter and am clueless on how to read it. I need to get a digital one at some point.

Also,
Here is my rectifier. Is there a way to check it with a meter? Is there a diode in the red wire? Sevral sites have mentioned bad diodes but I don't see where my tractor has one.
You need to download the pages that are in post 2 and then read it...! you also need to know how to use a meter analog or digital, volts from the stator are AC and not DC, DC comes from the rectifier the one you have is a 10 or 16 Amp one, and if a rectifier is fitted (which you do have one) there will be no diode in the wire.

See if you have volts from the stator, then see if you have volts out from the rectifier and how much, then post back here, someone here may help you, remember the volts out of the stator are AC so set meter to AC say 30volts out of the rectifier you will set it at DC say 20volts.


#8

G

gamecock66

Thanks I will try this. I definately got confused when looking at some of the youtube video's. I did read the info in the second post but it looked more like a how to wiring diagram than a troubleshooting guide. I may definately be wrong on that though.

Thanks
Wade


#9

G

gamecock66

I just checked ac coming from the stator and one post did not read anything and the other moved a little past -20. I hooked the rectifier back up stuck the probe in the red connector after switching the meter to the 250 DC setting and the needle never moved at all. I had the black probe grounded to - on the battery, I also tried with probe connected to the chassis ground. Both tests resulted in the same.

Bad stator correct?

Thanks
Wade


#10

EngineMan

EngineMan

I have PM you with a file, but you can read this..... and did you run engine up past 3000rpm..? when testing.

Attachments


  • Digital Multimeter Instruction Manual MS6574.pdf
    346.9 KB · Views: 27


#11

K

KennyV

I just checked ac coming from the stator and one post did not read anything and the other moved a little past -20. I hooked the rectifier back up stuck the probe in the red connector after switching the meter to the 250 DC setting and the needle never moved at all. I had the black probe grounded to - on the battery, I also tried with probe connected to the chassis ground. Both tests resulted in the same.

Bad stator correct?

Thanks
Wade

Check the AC wires from one to the other... Check the DC to battery negative but use the 20 volt scale... :smile:KennyV


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