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Hi, I have a Husqvarna YTH18542 a year old, intek 18.5. I use her every 2 weeks. Last time to use her she didn't turn over with the key. It failed to occur to me to check the voltage at the battery, but connecting it to the charger, the tractor started right up. Charging from the magneto was solid at 16 v. so I drove it out and used it. After work, I checked resting voltage and read 14.5 v. I disconnected a battery cable and checked amperage to try to measure the draw, multimeter set to DC amps 20m (no idea what that means, it was a middle setting) and it read .05. I started disconnecting various components (fuel solenoid, starter cable, etc.) 'and saw no change (.05). Finally I disconnected the switch plug, removed some fuzz there and reconnected. Reading dropped to .01. Is that a significant reading, or am I possibly with a meter error? What does .05 (20m DCA) mean?

Think you are trying to say 20ma right? That's 20 milli-amps, 1,000 ma is = to one amp of current.

larryuno said:

Charging from the magneto was solid at 16 v. so I drove it out and used it.

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No wonder mower batteries don't last for shiz nit. 16 volts is a cooker.

larryuno said:

After work, I checked resting voltage and read 14.5 v.

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At rest and you got that high? Heck of a surface charge.

larryuno said:

I disconnected a battery cable and checked amperage to try to measure the draw

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Get on youtube and look up parasitic draws. This will help you more.


To do a parasitic test, disconnect the - battery terminal connector. Connect a multi meter set for 10 Amps at the red lead TO the meter. Then the dial set for milliamp scale. Meter should be reading milliamps. And the red and black leads, what you are measuring is the difference between the red and black lead in this case milliamps of current.

Connect the red lead to the battery - terminal connector because THAT connection is more positive than the - post. Lastly the black meter lead TO the - battery post. Measure away. If this was a car or truck, look for a good value of 20-30ma draw. Never did one on a mower but should be next to nothing.

.05 on the DCA 20m scale is full scale is 20 milliamps or .020 amps full scale. (what is strange is the meter should have said OL because 50 milliamps is more than the full scale of 20m)
But mute because you do not have a static drain issue.

That reading of .05 is 50 milliamps and is not your problem.
.01 is 10milliamps.

1000 milliamps is 1 amp
Your meter is indicating all is ok, no excess battery drain.

Get a battery load tester for around $30 from HF or take your battery to O'reilly for a FREE battery test.

or you could just leave one terminal off the battery for 2 weeks and if it does the same you have a bad battery.

OR if the one year old machine is still under warranty, do the warranty thing.

Thanks to both of you guys. I have already left the cable unattached, so we'll see. Can't believe the speed of the replies; I love this internet.

Any auto parts store should be able to test it. The best test out there is still the ol' carbon pile tester.

I don't know if these new internal resistance checkers are any good. Autozone uses them. Where's Bert when we need him LOL.

Will definitely do an assessment of the battery, but given what you've said, I begin to suspect a bad connection of the switch before, as well, now hopefully cured.

You blokes are doing fine
16V shows the regulator in the rectifier/regulator is toast
Over voltage will cause the plates to gas and that blows paste off the plates which reduces the capacity to provide high currents
So the battery is probably toast as well

It is highly likely the Briggs engine has a dual Stator without a voltage regulator.

And is a test that many probably don't know of for Lead Acid batteries. Take a meter on Dc Volts, place one lead on either the positive or negative post. Now take the other lead touch various places on the battery plastic case. If you get any voltage reading the battery case has become conductive and it will drain a fully charge battery in short order.

slomo said:

I don't know if these new internal resistance checkers are any good. Autozone uses them. Where's Bert when we need him LOL.

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I have 3 of the internal resistance type testers. I bought 3 to compare them. They all three agree on all the measurements. They also agree with a $$$ snap on tester.

Hammermechanicman said:

I have 3 of the internal resistance type testers. I bought 3 to compare them. They all three agree on all the measurements. They also agree with a $$$ snap on tester.

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I load test a lot of customer batteries and also charge a lot of batteries. You can literally spend hours reading on the Internet about batteries (it pays off). My Noco charger 5 amp is my favorite.

I brought one those HF electronic battery testers and it works well. Just one the battery clips are junk and after a year they broke so it another one or a carbon pile version since test all the way to large vehicle batteries here. Just wish HF could provide replacement clamps.

I have 5 different chargers all probably 30 years old and all still work. Even the one I tried to back the boat trailer over. Bought a HF smart charger on sale. Crapped the second use. Bought a name brand smart charger and it crapped about the forth use. One 200 amp booster charger I got very used from a closed gas station over 30 years ago so it is probably 40+ years old and the volt and amp gauges don't work but it still charges batteries.
Still looking for a good high quality smart charger.

StarTech said:

I brought one those HF electronic battery testers and it works well. Just one the battery clips are junk and after a year they broke so it another one or a carbon pile version since test all the way to large vehicle batteries here. Just wish HF could provide replacement clamps.

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I have the HF internal resistance tester. One thing about It compared to the 2 other is that it is more particular about how well the clamps are attached to the battery than the others.
One of the nice things about the testers is you can tell a customer the actual CCA capacity of the battery and relative health. Plus you can quickly test the battery condition and the charging system in seconds.

Just remember to wait 15-20 if the battery has been in use or recharged or you get a false reading with the HF tester.

If I recharge a battery I just crank the starter for a few seconds and it removes the surface charge.

StarTech said:

It is highly likely the Briggs engine has a dual Stator without a voltage regulator.

And is a test that many probably don't know of for Lead Acid batteries. Take a meter on Dc Volts, place one lead on either the positive or negative post. Now take the other lead touch various places on the battery plastic case. If you get any voltage reading the battery case has become conductive and it will drain a fully charge battery in short order.

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Okay you got my attention but how does, plastic, conduct??

IT does not
But a surface layer of dust, oil & electrolyte do conduct which is anothrer reason why you paint over the terminal with liquid electrical tape or use a generous amount of grease