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Bad Starter Motor?
#1
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
Brand new battery and all connections are tight. Im thinking the starter motor is going bad...
https://youtu.be/q3oUX0lH5aI
https://youtu.be/q3oUX0lH5aI
#3
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
I wrote this procedure with tractor style mowers in mind but this works on zero turn mowers as well. For a zero turn mower, the steering levers must be out, parking brake engaged and the PTO switch in the off position. Some mowers have an operator presence switch in the seat and you may need an assistant to sit in the seat while performing the following tests.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things:
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions. Ahem.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and test/verify everything.
First you need to check every wire and connection, making sure they are not dirty, corroded, broken or loose. *Failure to do this can lead to inaccurate reading or tests down the road.
Remember, I cannot see what you are doing. You are the eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools I will ask you to use are a test light and a multimeter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, make sure the parking brake is engaged and the PTO switch is in the off position. Physically remove the negative battery cable first and then the positive battery cable and clean both the battery terminals and cable connectors with a wire brush. Reinstall cables after cleaning starting with the positive first and then the negative. Next, turn the key to the run position, check all fuses with a grounded test light should light on both sides of fuse. Check battery voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Believe it or not, this first step will take the most amount of time, usually around five minutes and the rest of the steps can be accomplished in under a minute.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show battery voltage on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring. You should have battery voltage on this small solenoid wire when the key switch is held in the start position.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). You should have battery voltage on this terminal when the key is held in the start position.
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). You should have battery voltage during this test.
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery. Just like the battery, make sure connections are clean and tight. Very Important!
This procedure is a simple starting point and there is more to it so after you have gone through each of the above steps, let me know what happened when you performed each test. At that point I will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are the eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible. Some lawnmowers use a relay in the starter control circuit so keep that in mind.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. I prefer to use voltage drop tests but some people get too confused over this subject so in an effort to keep it simple, for now, just follow the procedure and report back with your findings.
As an old fart, I don't do you tube, so I'm replying with this procedure. If you want more help you must include all model and serial numbers for your unit and engine. The techs on this forum are located all over the world and not sitting in your back yard with a beer in our hand. You have to help us the hard way, meaning explain the problem.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things:
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions. Ahem.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and test/verify everything.
First you need to check every wire and connection, making sure they are not dirty, corroded, broken or loose. *Failure to do this can lead to inaccurate reading or tests down the road.
Remember, I cannot see what you are doing. You are the eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools I will ask you to use are a test light and a multimeter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, make sure the parking brake is engaged and the PTO switch is in the off position. Physically remove the negative battery cable first and then the positive battery cable and clean both the battery terminals and cable connectors with a wire brush. Reinstall cables after cleaning starting with the positive first and then the negative. Next, turn the key to the run position, check all fuses with a grounded test light should light on both sides of fuse. Check battery voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Believe it or not, this first step will take the most amount of time, usually around five minutes and the rest of the steps can be accomplished in under a minute.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show battery voltage on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring. You should have battery voltage on this small solenoid wire when the key switch is held in the start position.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). You should have battery voltage on this terminal when the key is held in the start position.
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). You should have battery voltage during this test.
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery. Just like the battery, make sure connections are clean and tight. Very Important!
This procedure is a simple starting point and there is more to it so after you have gone through each of the above steps, let me know what happened when you performed each test. At that point I will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are the eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible. Some lawnmowers use a relay in the starter control circuit so keep that in mind.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. I prefer to use voltage drop tests but some people get too confused over this subject so in an effort to keep it simple, for now, just follow the procedure and report back with your findings.
As an old fart, I don't do you tube, so I'm replying with this procedure. If you want more help you must include all model and serial numbers for your unit and engine. The techs on this forum are located all over the world and not sitting in your back yard with a beer in our hand. You have to help us the hard way, meaning explain the problem.
#4
Boobala
From one "ol-Fart " to another , Rivets I just Luuuv your BASIC procedure ,passed down from one to another ! ..:thumbsup:
Boobala
I wrote this procedure with tractor style mowers in mind but this works on zero turn mowers as well. For a zero turn mower, the steering levers must be out, parking brake engaged and the PTO switch in the off position. Some mowers have an operator presence switch in the seat and you may need an assistant to sit in the seat while performing the following tests.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things:
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions. Ahem.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and test/verify everything.
First you need to check every wire and connection, making sure they are not dirty, corroded, broken or loose. *Failure to do this can lead to inaccurate reading or tests down the road.
Remember, I cannot see what you are doing. You are the eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools I will ask you to use are a test light and a multimeter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, make sure the parking brake is engaged and the PTO switch is in the off position. Physically remove the negative battery cable first and then the positive battery cable and clean both the battery terminals and cable connectors with a wire brush. Reinstall cables after cleaning starting with the positive first and then the negative. Next, turn the key to the run position, check all fuses with a grounded test light should light on both sides of fuse. Check battery voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Believe it or not, this first step will take the most amount of time, usually around five minutes and the rest of the steps can be accomplished in under a minute.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show battery voltage on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring. You should have battery voltage on this small solenoid wire when the key switch is held in the start position.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). You should have battery voltage on this terminal when the key is held in the start position.
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). You should have battery voltage during this test.
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery. Just like the battery, make sure connections are clean and tight. Very Important!
This procedure is a simple starting point and there is more to it so after you have gone through each of the above steps, let me know what happened when you performed each test. At that point I will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are the eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible. Some lawnmowers use a relay in the starter control circuit so keep that in mind.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. I prefer to use voltage drop tests but some people get too confused over this subject so in an effort to keep it simple, for now, just follow the procedure and report back with your findings.
As an old fart, I don't do you tube, so I'm replying with this procedure. If you want more help you must include all model and serial numbers for your unit and engine. The techs on this forum are located all over the world and not sitting in your back yard with a beer in our hand. You have to help us the hard way, meaning explain the problem.
From one "ol-Fart " to another , Rivets I just Luuuv your BASIC procedure ,passed down from one to another ! ..:thumbsup:
#5
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
I just discovered the voltage regulator wires arent even plugged in. The previous owner had the connectors tucked away. Smh. Now I need to find out where they plug in.
Attachments
#6
Boobala
I wouldn't think those wires ( regulator) would have any effect on the starting circuit !
Boobala
I just discovered the voltage regulator wires arent even plugged in. The previous owner had the connectors tucked away. Smh. Now I need to find out where they plug in.
I wouldn't think those wires ( regulator) would have any effect on the starting circuit !
#7
J
JonnyBlaze
Anyone tell me where they plug into?
J
JonnyBlaze
They would if I killed the new battery while I was mowing yesturday. Lol. I have it charging now. Guess thats why it was acting like the battery was weak.I wouldn't think those wires ( regulator) would have any effect on the starting circuit !
Anyone tell me where they plug into?
#8
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If those wires are disconnected, there may be others. While he looks for others, he may also want to read my procedure, especially the last paragraph. If he doesn't understand that, he'll have a tough time solvingthis problem.
#12
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If you look around you should find a second yellow plug and a white or clear plug. Yellow goes to yellow and clear goes to red. You'll find the numbers usually behind the left rear wheel, on the chassis. It will be a black and silver tag. After you plug in the voltage regulator, start the procedure.
#13
J
JonnyBlaze
Thanks. Do both plugs connect to the stator? Should I pull off the engine cover? I don't see anything unconnected.
J
JonnyBlaze
If you look around you should find a second yellow plug and a white or clear plug. Yellow goes to yellow and clear goes to red. You'll find the numbers usually behind the left rear wheel, on the chassis. It will be a black and silver tag. After you plug in the voltage regulator, start the procedure.
Thanks. Do both plugs connect to the stator? Should I pull off the engine cover? I don't see anything unconnected.
#14
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Yellow goes to stator. Red will send voltage to battery, you should find a red wire either coming directly from the battery or connected to the battery terminal on the solenoid.
#15
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
So I popped the flywheel off to expose the stator and I see the wires going into this harness. Dont see where they go from there... other than a relay and ignition switch.
Attachments
#16
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
Does this have the wrong stator on it since its a white plug? And if so, and I get the right stator, do I just plug it into the voltage regulator? And leave the white plug unplugged?
#17
reynoldston
reynoldston
When I work on a electrical problem in my shop two very important tools I use are a wiring diagram and a multi volt meter. Well worth the money to buy. I find that wire colors and hook ups can change from year to year, models and brands. This can save you a lot of work and money from jumping all over the place and trying parts.
#18
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
From what I have read, tge different color plug connectors signify different amp ratings from the stators.When I work on a electrical problem in my shop two very important tools I use are a wiring diagram and a multi volt meter. Well worth the money to buy. I find that wire colors and hook ups can change from year to year, models and brands. This can save you a lot of work and money from jumping all over the place and trying parts.
#19
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
The voltage regulator which has nothing plugged into it does not go with the stator on your engine. If you look closely at your picture you will see what looks like a black plug with tape over it. It is an inline diode, which is used on your charging system. You are first going to have to get your engine running and then test the charging system for proper operation.
#20
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
My engine does run. So get the right stator, then what?The voltage regulator which has nothing plugged into it does not go with the stator on your engine. If you look closely at your picture you will see what looks like a black plug with tape over it. It is an inline diode, which is used on your charging system. You are first going to have to get your engine running and then test the charging system for proper operation.
#21
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
And I believe this is the stator I need? Install this one, plug yellow into yellow, run red to the battery, and leave the other end unplugged from where I unplug the old stator? Is it that simple?
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Strat...ie=UTF8&qid=1496600351&sr=8-1&keywords=592830
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Strat...rd_wg=PSxsy&psc=1&refRID=2AG8NQBG21KBD23R31C1
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Strat...ie=UTF8&qid=1496600351&sr=8-1&keywords=592830
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Strat...rd_wg=PSxsy&psc=1&refRID=2AG8NQBG21KBD23R31C1
#22
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If you want to start throwing money away go buy one of those stators. You will have to rewire your unit, as the wiring harness is not set up for a changeover. As I said, the voltage regulator mounted on the engine does not belong to your engine. In my opinion you would be better off buying a good multimeter and get a wiring diagram for you unit, as reynolston posted. If you don't understand how to use a multimeter and wiring diagram to pinpoint your problem, then you have two options. Start replacing parts until you solve the problem or take it in and have someone who understands how these systems work to fix it. It's your choice on how to spend your money. I cannot teach someone how to electrically troubleshoot a unit on this forum.
#23
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
when its running, I get 13.49 at battery and .042 at statorIf you want to start throwing money away go buy one of those stators. You will have to rewire your unit, as the wiring harness is not set up for a changeover. As I said, the voltage regulator mounted on the engine does not belong to your engine. In my opinion you would be better off buying a good multimeter and get a wiring diagram for you unit, as reynolston posted. If you don't understand how to use a multimeter and wiring diagram to pinpoint your problem, then you have two options. Start replacing parts until you solve the problem or take it in and have someone who understands how these systems work to fix it. It's your choice on how to spend your money. I cannot teach someone how to electrically troubleshoot a unit on this forum.
Attachments
#25
reynoldston
This is what I am telling you. The wiring diagram is your road map and shows you how everything works. Would you go to a mechanic to have your mower fixed that just changes parts till they found the problem? Keep going and I do hope you the best of luck. :thumbsup:
reynoldston
From what I have read, tge different color plug connectors signify different amp ratings from the stators.
This is what I am telling you. The wiring diagram is your road map and shows you how everything works. Would you go to a mechanic to have your mower fixed that just changes parts till they found the problem? Keep going and I do hope you the best of luck. :thumbsup:
#26
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
You are measuring battery voltage and if hooked up properly stator amperage. Two different electrical measurements. If you have 13.49 volt at the battery and it goes up when you increase engine speed, your charging system is working properly. Have no idea why you would want to measure stator amperage.
#27
reynoldston
The very first thing I do with a bad oil leak is a good cleaning because I find oil can travel.
reynoldston
I got a bigger problem now. Its got a huge oil leak from somewhere.
The very first thing I do with a bad oil leak is a good cleaning because I find oil can travel.
#28
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
Because the Briggs website said to test itYou are measuring battery voltage and if hooked up properly stator amperage. Two different electrical measurements. If you have 13.49 volt at the battery and it goes up when you increase engine speed, your charging system is working properly. Have no idea why you would want to measure stator amperage.
#29
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
Its a huge leak. Im about to give up on it. Smh.The very first thing I do with a bad oil leak is a good cleaning because I find oil can travel.
#30
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
They know more than me, and neither me or you know why, so I'm going to have to let them help you and get out of the way. Good luck.
#31
reynoldston
Don't have any idea where your engine is leaking???? But I have had a run on bad crankshaft seals leaking oil. Not a bad job at all. The worst part of the job is the clean up.
reynoldston
Its a huge leak. Im about to give up on it. Smh.
Don't have any idea where your engine is leaking???? But I have had a run on bad crankshaft seals leaking oil. Not a bad job at all. The worst part of the job is the clean up.
#32
T
Telesis
T
Telesis
Back to the electrical system for a moment...
I must respectfully disagree with Rivets regarding his comments about the regulator/rectifier block and the diode with heat shrink over it. Regarding the presence of the diode, I'm pretty sure that's the line which goes to the magneto. I know some charging systems utilize a series diode for simple rectification but I don't believe that's the case with your engine. The diodes are used in series with the magneto primaries. They prevent flyback from the magneto primaries from damaging the reg/rec block when you shut the engine off. L120s do use a reg/rec block as you have on your unit. The stator should have two black wires going to a connector that plugs into the connector with the two yellow wires of the reg/rec block. The stator plugs directly into the reg/rec connector through no intervening connector(s). The mating connector to the single red wire coming out of the reg/rec block likely has two wires in it. One goes to the Ign Switch and then to the lights and the other should go to a fuse and then to the battery.
I'm a bit confused what current you were trying to measure, given your reg/rec block is not connected. Normally to test the charging system, you run the engine at high throttle and measure the stator voltage. If that's OK you then measure the current coming out of the reg/rec block to the battery. If that's OK, you know the reg/rec block is good. Not sure what you tried to measure given that they are disconnected.
Regarding your measuring charging current as the Briggs manual spells out, under "normal" conditions, you would unplug the connector of the red wire coming out of the reg/rec block. You would touch your red meter led to the red wire coming out of the reg/rec block and touch the black lead of your meter to the POSITIVE(yes, positive) battery terminal and that will tell you the charging current. Your meter must be set up to read DC current on the 10Amp scale and THE RED LEAD OF THE METER MUST BE IN THE 10A JACK OF THE METER. NOTE: In your pic, the meter is set to read 10A DC as it should, BUT you have the red lead in the wrong jack. It must be in the leftmost jack to measure DC current on the 10 amp scale. DO NOT TOUCH THE BLACK LEAD OF THE METER TO GROUND OR THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY WHEN PERFORMING THIS CHARGING CURRENT TEST. If you do, your meter will act as a dead short and the fuse inside the meter will blow. Remember to move the red lead back to the right jack to measure voltage!!!
... I hope this helps a bit
I must respectfully disagree with Rivets regarding his comments about the regulator/rectifier block and the diode with heat shrink over it. Regarding the presence of the diode, I'm pretty sure that's the line which goes to the magneto. I know some charging systems utilize a series diode for simple rectification but I don't believe that's the case with your engine. The diodes are used in series with the magneto primaries. They prevent flyback from the magneto primaries from damaging the reg/rec block when you shut the engine off. L120s do use a reg/rec block as you have on your unit. The stator should have two black wires going to a connector that plugs into the connector with the two yellow wires of the reg/rec block. The stator plugs directly into the reg/rec connector through no intervening connector(s). The mating connector to the single red wire coming out of the reg/rec block likely has two wires in it. One goes to the Ign Switch and then to the lights and the other should go to a fuse and then to the battery.
I'm a bit confused what current you were trying to measure, given your reg/rec block is not connected. Normally to test the charging system, you run the engine at high throttle and measure the stator voltage. If that's OK you then measure the current coming out of the reg/rec block to the battery. If that's OK, you know the reg/rec block is good. Not sure what you tried to measure given that they are disconnected.
Regarding your measuring charging current as the Briggs manual spells out, under "normal" conditions, you would unplug the connector of the red wire coming out of the reg/rec block. You would touch your red meter led to the red wire coming out of the reg/rec block and touch the black lead of your meter to the POSITIVE(yes, positive) battery terminal and that will tell you the charging current. Your meter must be set up to read DC current on the 10Amp scale and THE RED LEAD OF THE METER MUST BE IN THE 10A JACK OF THE METER. NOTE: In your pic, the meter is set to read 10A DC as it should, BUT you have the red lead in the wrong jack. It must be in the leftmost jack to measure DC current on the 10 amp scale. DO NOT TOUCH THE BLACK LEAD OF THE METER TO GROUND OR THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY WHEN PERFORMING THIS CHARGING CURRENT TEST. If you do, your meter will act as a dead short and the fuse inside the meter will blow. Remember to move the red lead back to the right jack to measure voltage!!!
... I hope this helps a bit
#33
T
Telesis
T
Telesis
I need to make a clarification to my previous post. According to the JD service manual for the L series tractors, the charging system you should have is 16 amps (for the L120). That is also consistent with the regulator/rectifier block you have(that is mysteriously disconnected!) Your stator would have 2 black wires going to a yellow connector, that would plug into the reg/rec block connector.
SO, PLEASE DON'T TRY AND MEASURE THE CHARGING CURRENT WITH THE METER YOU HAVE AS IT CAN EXCEED THE 10AMP CAPACITY!
The charging current can vary between 3 and 16 amps depending on battery charge. The no load voltage from the stator should be 30VAC at 3600rpm. (refer to page 7-10 of the Briggs Intek Twin Cylinder manual for more info on the tests)
SO, PLEASE DON'T TRY AND MEASURE THE CHARGING CURRENT WITH THE METER YOU HAVE AS IT CAN EXCEED THE 10AMP CAPACITY!
The charging current can vary between 3 and 16 amps depending on battery charge. The no load voltage from the stator should be 30VAC at 3600rpm. (refer to page 7-10 of the Briggs Intek Twin Cylinder manual for more info on the tests)
#34
J
JonnyBlaze
Im wondering if the oil is coming from the valve covers. Here are some pics.
J
JonnyBlaze
I wont do it again. Promise. I dont know much about multi meters.I need to make a clarification to my previous post. According to the JD service manual for the L series tractors, the charging system you should have is 16 amps (for the L120). That is also consistent with the regulator/rectifier block you have(that is mysteriously disconnected!) Your stator would have 2 black wires going to a yellow connector, that would plug into the reg/rec block connector.
SO, PLEASE DON'T TRY AND MEASURE THE CHARGING CURRENT WITH THE METER YOU HAVE AS IT CAN EXCEED THE 10AMP CAPACITY!
The charging current can vary between 3 and 16 amps depending on battery charge. The no load voltage from the stator should be 30VAC at 3600rpm. (refer to page 7-10 of the Briggs Intek Twin Cylinder manual for more info on the tests)
Im wondering if the oil is coming from the valve covers. Here are some pics.
Attachments
#35
reynoldston
reynoldston
The only thing the pictures are showing is a big oil mess. Very first thing to finding a oil leak is a clean engine as I said oil travels.
#36
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
Today I removed the left valve cover (one below fuel pump) and the bolts weren't even that tight at all. It came right off and didn't have to pry it off or anything (I read on forums that ohv valve covers always have to be pried off and they get bent). I removed the old gasket material, cleaned both surfaces up real good and applied some Permatex Ultra Black, made specifically for heavy oil applications. As per directions, I gently snugged the bolts down, waited and hour, then tightened them up. Got to wait 24 hours to dry before I can start it. This is the side were I see a lot of oil underneath. I didn't see a drop on the other head or valve cover at all, so I left it alone.
I doubt this will fix the problem but it's a start. Since all the oil is on that one side, I'm thinking it could be a blown headgasket. If so, I will do it but I am nervous about adjusting the valves and everything... Also the vacuum hose going from the fuel pump to the valve cover was ripped in half where it goes into the cover so it wasn't functioning at all. Took a good one off the motor I did in my swap thread and ordered a new one.
I doubt this will fix the problem but it's a start. Since all the oil is on that one side, I'm thinking it could be a blown headgasket. If so, I will do it but I am nervous about adjusting the valves and everything... Also the vacuum hose going from the fuel pump to the valve cover was ripped in half where it goes into the cover so it wasn't functioning at all. Took a good one off the motor I did in my swap thread and ordered a new one.
#37
J
JonnyBlaze
J
JonnyBlaze
Still leaking. Cant see it. I guess I'm going to have to pull it and clean it up real good. Must be crank seal or sump gasket.