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B&S OVH Twin won't start - Fuel issue?

#1

M

mpking

Engine has this stamped on the engine:
Model: 407777
Type: 0188 B1
Code: 071101YG

It has 138 hours on the meter.

I can't get it to start. Turn the key (Hear a click of a solenoid from somewhere in the front of the engine), and it will spin like no tomorrow, but not catch.

This has happened once before about 4 years ago for my father (He gave it to me about 1 year ago). He called a repair guy out, and it just started. (Or so the repair guy said, I wasn't there.)
In the interests of not having to try and fix it, I left it 24 hours, and tried again this morning. Still nothing.

I sprayed starter fluid into the air intake, and it will crank right over, and then starve off.

Trying to diagnose the issue further, I've:

I've pulled off the fuel line off before the fuel pump? (I think that what it is, round thing) and gas flows out of the hose at a pretty good clip. (Labeled 1 on the attached picture) I reattached it.
I've pulled off the fuel line off after the fuel pump, and I don't see anything come out when cranking. (Labeled 2). I expected to see lots of fuel come out.
I've pulled off the hose on the bottom and cranked it. I hear an air sounding noise, and feel air coming out of #2. I put #2 and 3 back on, and come inside to ask for help.

So, Help?

Do those fuel pump things go bad? (I couldn't see wires or anything to it, so I'm unsure how it's powered).
Other things I can try?
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#2

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

The fuel pump is powered by vacuum pulses from the crankcase provided through the hose attached to your number 3. Make sure there are no cracks or splits in the hose between the pump and the valve cover. Remove the fuel pump from the engine and try to blow into the pump that you labeled number 1. you should get air out the number two. Then try to blow into the number 2, there shouldn't be any air come back out one.

the test that briggs mechanincs perform is a little more complicated by using a vacuum/pressure pump like a brake bleeder system, but still works on the same principle as I described. They do go bad, just not as often as a lot of people would like to believe.


#3

M

mpking

I've finally got time to look at this again today.

Pull the output tube (labeled 2 on the previously attached picture) and I DID get gas coming out while I cranked the engine. Still doesn't start.

What's next? Test the solenoid thingy?


#4

M

mechanic mark

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/ioswDLMV.HwjhJvcv4.pdf

with engine cold adjust valves: intake & exhaust 0.004- 0.006

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...alves on b&s twin&aqs=chrome..69i57.27005j0j8


#5

M

mpking

Ok,

I dragged it out my storage shed, and pushed it up to my house (about 200 feet, ugh).

Cranked it again, still no catch.

Pulled the pump hose, cranked and fuel still spurted out. Reattached.

Attempted to take the Solenoid off, my wrenches are not skinny enough to get inbetween it and the engine to get it off. So (following another thread I read on here) I gently tapped the solonoid a bunch of times. Took the air cleaner off, sprayed starting fluid again, and cranked it. It caught, like I expected. But it didn't starve off.

I shut it down (I had left the air cleaner off, so I needed to reattach it.)

Cranked it again, it caught. I ran it for about 2 hours non-stop no problem. Shut it down, and restarted it a few times, it always started.

I'm guessing the solenoid is gummed up, and tapping it free'd it. I'll pull it off in the spring, (or the next weekend or two if it gets warm again) and try and clean it.

Thanks for the link on adjusting the valves, I'll do that at the same time. (I don't have the tools at the moment, I'll need to pickup a feeler gauge. Is the gasket one of the ones that must be replaced everytime?)


#6

B

bertsmobile1

buy a new pair of them now.
Chances you mower will have silicon on the rocker housing which will take 1/2 hour to remove properly. time saver huh ?
When you install the gaskets put bentonite axle grease on the head and your favourite non hardening gasket goo on the rocker cover, I use Hylomar.
Don't overtighten the retaining bolts and it will strip clean forever with the gasket sticking to the cover.
I do this with all gaskets except head gaskets.

To easily remove the silicon on the rocker covers sit them in fuel for 15 minutes.
Silicon is soluable in petrol.

Go to a trash & treasure market, charity car boot sale or similar and get some old cheap spannars, not modern cheap Chinese spannars.
The solenoid is 1/2 AF from memory so grind one down to fit between the float bowl & solenoid, It must be a good snug fit as the flats are very soft & easily rounded.
Chances are the solenoid plunger is corroded and sitting over the off season will corrode even more.
It is a fundamentially bad design to cure a problem that does not exist except in the mind of biggoted idiot beaurocrats who live in apartments.


#7

S

startrite

mpking said:
Engine has this stamped on the engine:
Model: 407777
Type: 0188 B1
Code: 071101YG

It has 138 hours on the meter.

I can't get it to start. Turn the key (Hear a click of a solenoid from somewhere in the front of the engine), and it will spin like no tomorrow, but not catch.

This has happened once before about 4 years ago for my father (He gave it to me about 1 year ago). He called a repair guy out, and it just started. (Or so the repair guy said, I wasn't there.)
In the interests of not having to try and fix it, I left it 24 hours, and tried again this morning. Still nothing.

I sprayed starter fluid into the air intake, and it will crank right over, and then starve off.

Trying to diagnose the issue further, I've:

I've pulled off the fuel line off before the fuel pump? (I think that what it is, round thing) and gas flows out of the hose at a pretty good clip. (Labeled 1 on the attached picture) I reattached it.
I've pulled off the fuel line off after the fuel pump, and I don't see anything come out when cranking. (Labeled 2). I expected to see lots of fuel come out.
I've pulled off the hose on the bottom and cranked it. I hear an air sounding noise, and feel air coming out of #2. I put #2 and 3 back on, and come inside to ask for help.

So, Help?

Do those fuel pump things go bad? (I couldn't see wires or anything to it, so I'm unsure how it's powered).
Other things I can try?
View attachment 30165

View attachment 30167

View attachment 30166
Click to expand...

Replace the pump. Should be around $15 to $20


#8

S

SeniorCitizen

If the spark plugs are removed and one cylinder has a exhaust valve open, the key switch in the ON position to open the solenoid, you should be able to ( with your mouth ) blow air into the hose that connects between the fuel pump and carburetor. If you can't, the float needle valve is stuck closed as mine was.

Removing the manifold with carburetor attached and turning it all up side down it was discovered there was absolutely no gasoline in the float bowl. Needle valve was cleaned with 600 wet/dry sandpaper and all is well. Do not sandpaper the neoprene needle valve tip.


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