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My mechanic (general for all things mechanical) tells me that with a rod knocking, I would be better off to replace the engine, rather than rebuilding it. I bought this mower in 2004/2005, and cut about 2 acres with it. I also "bush-hog" with it. When I cut the grass a couple of weeks ago, I checked the oil, and it was fine. When I cut this time, I did not check the oil. just before I finished, I had a knocking, that I could feel through the frame. I put it away until I could look at it. This morning, I went down, and I found: 1) There was a clear oil like fluid on the left side, a little one the floor, which I suspect to be from the trans, or the tank. 2) The engine oil barely showed on the dipstick. I don't know where my engine oil went, but it is not in the engine, and it definitely sounds like a rod knocking.

Do I need to replace this engine (yeah, I know this is a loaded question, and there are some variables), or can I just get bearings and correct the problem?

If it isn't too bad you can have the crank turned down smaller and get a oversize rod bearing. Been there and did it and worked out just fine. Just don't put a new rod bearing in without grinding the crank first because it won't work also tryed that.

Great! You think like I do. Now then, any idea where I can find the parts? I can finds rings, heads, cranks, gaskets... but no bearings. My manual gives me p/n for rods, rings, etc, but again... no bearings. Good grief! I can even find pistons that are 20 over (hmmmn, oversize pistons, eh? hehehe, how about a hotter cam? I DID just watch the mower races at the fair...). Just kidding, I don't want to hot rod it, I just want to repair it.

On the repair... I have never been into a small engine like this. I am familiar with how VW cases split, and motorcycle cases, but this case appears to split horizontally, with the bottom section coming off. Would it be possible to pull it, flip it upside down, pull off the bottom, remove the rod caps, and pull the crank... without full dis-assembly? I sure hope so. If that is the case, and I can find the bearings, I can have it up for the next cutting cycle. Should I also replace the oil pump?

I will be going down to the local repair guy this morning, and I am hoping he has a used engine, for a reasonable price. Mine is a 22hp, I am sure that going bigger would be good, but how about a little smaller? Like maybe an 18, or 20?

Have a great day!

I think you'll be just fine with a slightly lower HP engine. Also, I'm a big proponent of synthetic oil in these little aircooled engines,:smile:, as well as everything else I run.

Found a Kohler Command 17.5, almost new for $200. Now to figure out if the shaft size is right...

Okay, it appears that the shaft size is good, so I will be grafting the Kohler onto the Cub, assuming no positioning issues. Went down to the small engine repair shop, and he called the supplier to inquire about a wiring harness that would be plug and play. I heard the tech cussing all the way across the desk. Apparently, wiring up a Kohler is "a lot different". Okay now, check me if I am wrong, but wiring shouldn't be that difficult.
1. you have a wire from the charging system, that will connect to the battery.
2. There will be a relay for the PTO, from the switch, and I will have to make the connection to the pto itself.

Yes, I guess there probably are some other wires (assorted safety interlocks, which I doubt connect to the engine itself, I figure they probably do not connect to the charging system), but if I disconnect and tag, I should be able to make this work. Or am I missing something obvious?

ended up ordering a new Briggs 24 ELS for John Deere. I did get the Koehler, on the Scott that has no deck, and I will be using it for my tow tractor, now that I know how fragile the transmissions are on the Cub.
Can someone tell me what hydrostatic fluid, or hydraulic fluid I need to the Cub? I figured out where I am getting the fluid leak. It is where the line runs under the fuel tank, and then down through the frame. It has a small cut. While I am in there, I will be installing new lines, a new Odyssey battery, and topping off the hydraulic fluid. Should I change the fluid?

Myself I won't touch a repair job that isn't stock. You can make anything fit with enough tools, equipment, time, and skills. It just seems nothing fits unless it was made that way, wiring, cables, and linkage. If you don't want to repair the old engine find a stock replacement for your best results.

normburns said:

ended up ordering a new Briggs 24 ELS for John Deere. I did get the Koehler, on the Scott that has no deck, and I will be using it for my tow tractor, now that I know how fragile the transmissions are on the Cub.
Can someone tell me what hydrostatic fluid, or hydraulic fluid I need to the Cub? I figured out where I am getting the fluid leak. It is where the line runs under the fuel tank, and then down through the frame. It has a small cut. While I am in there, I will be installing new lines, a new Odyssey battery, and topping off the hydraulic fluid. Should I change the fluid?

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For all of my hydro tractors, including my Cub Cadet 2164, I use Amsoil ATHQT. If your cadet is equipped with a tranny oil filter, I'd go ahead and change that when I changed the tranny fluid.:thumbsup:

benski said:

For all of my hydro tractors, including my Cub Cadet 2164, I use Amsoil ATHQT. If your cadet is equipped with a tranny oil filter, I'd go ahead and change that when I changed the tranny fluid.:thumbsup:

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Thanks. No tranny filter, just the reservoir, and the two lines running to the trannies. Today I picked up a G of Cub Cadet Drive System Plus fluid, got it from a local service point for Cub. Trying to get through to a human at Cub, just to verify that this stuff is good. For the money we paid for these mowers, you would think they could answer the phone.

Too true! A lot of the bean counter types don't think that service after the sale matters much. "Au contraire..":frown: I think it's the biggest part in me being a repeat and loyal customer.

benski said:

Too true! A lot of the bean counter types don't think that service after the sale matters much. "Au contraire..":frown: I think it's the biggest part in me being a repeat and loyal customer.

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Well, they lost me after thus one. May try a Husky next time.