B&S Newbie having issues with engine refresh, governor and throttle return issues

One thing I have learned over the years about the governor is the spring tries to blow the engine up and the governor tries to save it. The top no load speed is the balance between the two.
 
I speculate the smoke puff under load is an early sign that the head gasket is getting ready to pop. This is a fairly common problem on these B&S singles.

I say run it until it gets worse, then we can help you cross that bridge.
 
I finally mowed my lawn yesterday. Decided what the heck, had ordered new blades, the old ones looked like the surface of the moon with gouges and bent spots. It's still surging somewhat but putting the mower deck down loads the engine more and the surging stops. The white smoke episodes are declining, which I'm taking as an indication I may have over filled the oil a tad. I'm thinking with a horizontal cylinder so close to sump level (unlike most cars) that overfill may result in oil slopping into the cylinder more than it's supposed to, and I"m perhaps burning off the excess.

I'm going to order another tach, one with a ground wire, and then mess with getting the tuning to the factory specs for idle and peak no load RPM .
 
MtGoat said:
I may have over filled the oil a tad.
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My friend, prior to EVERY mow, check the oil level. Should be ON the FULL MARK. Not under nor over even a tick. Get an oil evac pump, very cheap these days. Suck out any that makes it over filled. These are air cooled and oil cooled engines. Do I need to elaborate here? Take care of her so she can take care of you buddy. (y)

Over filled oil leads to oil cavitation, foaming and loss of oil pressure IF you have an oil pump. Foaming (oil slinger engines and oil pumped) is AIR added/mixed to the oil. Air does NOT lube anything. Most uninformed folks think oh it's over filled and will burn off. Let me explain what THIS does. Leads to excess carbon inside the engine, flaking off, getting between the piston/s and bore/s. THIS is where bore scratching and gouges come from. THIS leads to burning oil and blue smoking. Next up is a new engine due to the lack of proper maintenance. Only takes 4 seconds to check your oil level.
 
MtGoat said:
Ordered an aftermarket cam.
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Red Flag ALERT!!! Stick with OEM cams unless you like fixing it two or three more times.
MtGoat said:
And the magneto was out of spec for resistance, so that as well.
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Most mags you can't check with a meter. I guess you could if your engine manual states otherwise. Either sparks fat and blue with an open gap style tester or not.
MtGoat said:
All in all about 60 bucks worth of parts. Carb, magneto, cam, all new.
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Every one of these parts WILL require TESTING. Put the credit card away and TEST what you have.
MtGoat said:
So I think you're right...I am probably adjusting the wrong valve. I'll give it another go!
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The intake valve has a larger face to it as well. It is larger and will flow more air/fuel juice than the smaller ex valve. Set these to factory specs. Rotate the engine a few times and CHECK clearance again.
 
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