B&S Intek 23HP blowing smoke

[shpxnvz]

Here are some (hopefully) better pics of both sides of the gaskets. Please let me know if anything looks out of the ordinary.

It sounds like my next step should be new gaskets and valve stem oil seals. Gaskets are straight forward but I'm not sure the process to change the stem seals - is there a decent howto out there (ideally with pictures) that I can follow?

Also, I want to thank everyone for jumping in with advice and opinions. It's much appreciated.

 

[Rivets]

This manual should help you out. I hope you kept the heads separate, as there is a #1 and #2.

https://doc-0o-5o-docs.googleuserco...253/*/0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE?e=download

 

[Tinkerer200]

"Pic five shows cross hatch hone marks."

That same picture also shows score marks.

Walt Conner

Gonna be pretty hard to confuse #1 & #2 heads.

 

[shpxnvz]

This manual should help you out. I hope you kept the heads separate, as there is a #1 and #2.

https://doc-0o-5o-docs.googleuserco...253/*/0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE?e=download

Thanks, that looks like just what I need.

 

[motoman]

I have just flipped through the Intek repair manual looking for a piston/bore clearance and could not find it. Anyway the feeler strip is not suggested and was only an idea among others. The strip test should be specified with a thickness and a withdrawal force (like a fish deliar) and it is not used anymore. Also the placement is important . If I remember piston crowns are usually different dia than the skirts where the measurement is taken. Without further disassembly you cannot get the skirt dia. You could use a 3 position bore gauge, but the reading would not have much meaning without the piston dia. Intek does call out only .0015" out of round allowance in the specs. A dia bore gauge is a pretty specialized piece. I have used the cheaper telescoping gauges and IMO they are difficult to read accurately, especially if first usage.

 

[shpxnvz]

Update on this problem. I got the head gaskets and valve stem seals in the mail and put the engine back together today, after cleaning everything up best I could.

After reassembly I tried to do a compression test on each cylinder with a gauge I borrowed from the local auto parts store, but it did not register anything at all - a big fat zero. However I could feel resistance on the compression stroke, and if I pushed a valve in under compression I could hear the pressure release with a hiss. So, guessing maybe the gauge wasn't working properly I finished buttoning it up and did a test run.

Engine started right up, and runs strong and sure. The rough idle that it had all last season is gone; it now purrs along at idle and wide open. And, no smoke.

Seems like the engine should not be running well if it really had 0 compression on both cylinders? If so is it reasonable to conclude that the compression tester was not working properly? There's no other place nearby that I can borrow a tester from, or else I would just test it again to be sure.

 

[Rivets]

A better test is to start it up and see how it runs. As you see you passed that test with flying colors. I think you solved your problem.

 

[shpxnvz]

Thanks to you and everyone else for the help!