Export thread

B&S engine will not restart (Toro Recycler push mower)

#1

S

SMWoody

Greetings: I've got a Toro pushmower (Recycler) - 4 or 5 years old - B&S 124T02-0203-B1 - and after I run it (starts normally) a while and shut it off it will not start until it cools down some - my research shows it's probably a bad exhaust valve - is there anything else I should check before I start trying to replace the &*%$# exhaust valve? thanks in advance.....


#2

R

Rivets

Next time it happens check to see if you have spark. If no spark, you have a coil breaking down due to excess heat. I have not heard of a problem like this caused by a bad exhaust valve.


#3

Fish

Fish

If the block has overheated badly recently, then checking the valve clearances would be advisable. But this time of year, you need to drain your tank and carb and let it air dry, then add fresh fuel.


#4

S

SMWoody

Rivets said:
Next time it happens check to see if you have spark. If no spark, you have a coil breaking down due to excess heat. I have not heard of a problem like this caused by a bad exhaust valve.
Click to expand...

I mowed about 15 to 20 minutes this afternoon, then stopped the mower then 15 seconds later tried to start it; it didn't start - checked for spark and there is spark - I think I will give the carb a good cleaning and make sure I have fresh fuel in a clean tank....but if anybody else has some suggestions I'm sure interested in hearing them - thanks much.....


#5

Fish

Fish

WOW!!!

So checking your valve gaps is not a suggestion??????


#6

Fish

Fish

Discuss your research!!!


#7

R

Rivets

If you have spark, I would do as you said, clean the carb. When doing so I would replace the float needle and seat. The old seat may have swelled, causing the needle to seat too soon, creating a lean restart mixture. If you need a procedure for rebuilding the carb and replacing the seat let me know.


#8

Fish

Fish

Rivets said:
If you have spark, I would do as you said, clean the carb. When doing so I would replace the float needle and seat. The old seat may have swelled, causing the needle to seat too soon, creating a lean restart mixture. If you need a procedure for rebuilding the carb and replacing the seat let me know.
Click to expand...

Why would that do anything? New gas cures most of these problems, the needle/ seat.... No...
If he is running last year's fuel, that is the first thing to change....


#9

R

Rivets

Maybe because I've seen this problem 100 times a year and 90% of the time this will solve the problem. If he does not want to go that route it is fine with me. If you have a problem with my suggestion, I can understand by your signature, as none of those fit you, except the second part of the Briggs and Stratton. To the original poster PM me if you need more help.


#10

Fish

Fish

whoo hoo!


Probably good that you do not explain why then.... His running issues are far from your, mmmm, suggestions....


#11

Carscw

Carscw

Ok my turn. First it's not the gas because it runs fine. Here is the real deal. Put your spark plug wrench in your pocket. Go cut some grass as soon as it shuts off check for spark . If the engine does not shut off when your mowing and only will not restart after you shut it off then I would rebuild the carb. I will apologize that these two can not get along long enough to give you a straight answer.


#12

Fish

Fish

The carb on his series has no choke, but needs the primer to start, so after 10 minutes, his primer stops working.... Well...

Then you all may have something...... Or it could be that coil..... Or that "free valve gap check". If that passed the test, then he could go shopping for coils and floats and carb kits......


#13

Fish

Fish

So since the mower starts normally cold, that must mean that his primer bulb must be working OK......

Follow me here.... If he runs the mower and shuts it off after 15 minutes........ And it will not restart?????

One possibility, is that he still has last fall/winter's fuel in it, so after a few false restarts, the new fuel will get through the system....

Another possibility is that the valve gap is real close, and an adjustment may be in order, and checking such will cost nothing...


#14

Fish

Fish

So if one shut the engine down, and it wouldn't restart.... What is then the problem???? If the primer bulb works fine????
It stops working fine after 15 minutes????

If it was a fuel problem, then a couple of squirts from a good primer, the engine should whirr great for a few seconds before dying.........

but obviously there is another problem....


#15

R

Rivets

Carscw, didn't I say the same thing you said in post #2 & #7. Don't have to apologize for me as I must be doing it right if I tell the guy to do the same as you tell him. I even told him to PM me if he wanted a procedure to rebuild his carb. It is Fish who is stirring the pot and adding confusing posts. Who is this guy supposed to listen to?


#16

S

SMWoody

Rivets said:
Carscw, didn't I say the same thing you said in post #2 & #7. Don't have to apologize for me as I must be doing it right if I tell the guy to do the same as you tell him. I even told him to PM me if he wanted a procedure to rebuild his carb. It is Fish who is stirring the pot and adding confusing posts. Who is this guy supposed to listen to?
Click to expand...

OK - here's more of the details; when I attempt to start this mower (cold), it starts on the first pull - I forgot to mention, this does not have a primer bulb or a manual choke or a throttle control. I believe I could mow for an hour and it works just super (as long as I don't shut it off). When I shut it off (to rest, or empty the grass bag or whatever), it will not start; and I've checked for spark and there is spark (just won't start). And I took the gas tank off, drained the gas, cleaned the tank out with water and dish soap, rinsed very well and made sure that it was as dry as a bone inside the tank. Changed the oil, replaced the air filter, sharpened the blade and cleaned it up really pretty, this was about a month ago. This starting problem has been happening for the last several years; I was gonna take it back to where I got it but never got around to it. So I've been doing this small engine mechanic hobby for over a year now and am learning lots of things..... I guess the next thing I'll do is see what it takes to check the valve clearance, gap or whatever the term is...... I'll keep monitoring this thread to see what else ya'll can think of - thanks so much....


#17

Fish

Fish

SMWoody said:
OK - here's more of the details; when I attempt to start this mower (cold), it starts on the first pull - I forgot to mention, this does not have a primer bulb or a manual choke or a throttle control.
Click to expand...

Wow, that sounds real interesting!!!


#18

Fish

Fish

Nahh, this thread is too bogus.....


#19

pugaltitude

pugaltitude

SMWoody said:
OK - here's more of the details; when I attempt to start this mower (cold), it starts on the first pull - I forgot to mention, this does not have a primer bulb or a manual choke or a throttle control. I believe I could mow for an hour and it works just super (as long as I don't shut it off). When I shut it off (to rest, or empty the grass bag or whatever), it will not start; and I've checked for spark and there is spark (just won't start). And I took the gas tank off, drained the gas, cleaned the tank out with water and dish soap, rinsed very well and made sure that it was as dry as a bone inside the tank. Changed the oil, replaced the air filter, sharpened the blade and cleaned it up really pretty, this was about a month ago. This starting problem has been happening for the last several years; I was gonna take it back to where I got it but never got around to it. So I've been doing this small engine mechanic hobby for over a year now and am learning lots of things..... I guess the next thing I'll do is see what it takes to check the valve clearance, gap or whatever the term is...... I'll keep monitoring this thread to see what else ya'll can think of - thanks so much....
Click to expand...

Your problem sounds like the Thermostat is not adjusted properly for the auto choke.
It could be adjusted wrong which is either too much choke when warm or not enough choke when cooling down.

Also how did you check spark?

9 out 10 times its the metal spark plug cap breaking down due to heat.


#20

R

rggpa4

My B&S 6 hp (prime and start) on a Snapper 21" just started doing this. I installed new carb last fall, used many times since, ran dry before winter, always fresh fuel with B&S stabilizer added. Plug looks fine. Starts on 1 pull, runs fine for 45 min - 1 hr, then starts to stumble intermittently before stopping. Starts easily after 1/2 hour wait. If I stop while still running great, it will almost start, but after a few attempts, no sign of starting. Wait half hour, ready to go... Based on this thread, I should check for spark when hot (coil) and/or adjust valves. Is it possible that this is a air leak and that tightening the carb mounts might be needed? W/o taking the covers off, the carb seems tight, but easy task to retighten all bolts. Although this seems just like the issue that started this thread, no one has mentioned the intermittent stumble before stopping. I'm leaning toward the coil starting to fail..... Altho the metal cap on plug wire sounds possible (9 out of 10 times = pretty high odds).


#21

P

Phil G

Just to enter another suggestion, exhaust valve. If the gap it small when cold that gap will get smaller as the valve expands when hot, the valves can glow 'red' hot.

Remove the valve chest cover and check gap. Personaly I would remove the valve, regrind or if necessary recut valve seat and regap. Good compression is essential for easy starting.

Good luck, Phil :smile:


#22

R

rggpa4

Thanks, Phil.

Will add that to the diagnostic list....


#23

R

rggpa4

Yesterday, I saw some links to some valve adjustment instructions. Can't find them today. Anyone have them linked? Thanks.

Nevermind, found them in my history.


Footer Links 1

Top