B&S CRANK REJECT SPECS

Elias40

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Dec 20, 2012
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Shallom,

We have a (circa '91) #28M707-0526-A1 13HP VERTICAL B&S ENGINE.

Carried it to a machine shop and they didn't feel like working on it, after they asked how far we wanted to go with the cleaning and machine work, and we offered $500-600 with them ordering the parts included.

So, it's just sitting around for us to find somewhere else to send, or scrap.

The question:

The one machinist miked <(sp?) the crank and said it was .004 out of round.

What would be the maximum allowed?

Thanks.
 

chance123

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Aug 14, 2012
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Shallom,

We have a (circa '91) #28M707-0526-A1 13HP VERTICAL B&S ENGINE.

Carried it to a machine shop and they didn't feel like working on it, after they asked how far we wanted to go with the cleaning and machine work, and we offered $500-600 with them ordering the parts included.

So, it's just sitting around for us to find somewhere else to send, or scrap.

The question:

The one machinist miked <(sp?) the crank and said it was .004 out of round.

What would be the maximum allowed?

Thanks.

Crankpin journal reject size is 1.1844
Mag journal reject size is 1.3769
PTO journal reject size is 1.3769
Ring gap reject size is .035
 

Elias40

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Thanks chance123, for going through the trouble of looking these numbers up and relaying to us. Guess We need to go out and buy us a micrometer set.
 

DaveTN

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Jun 12, 2011
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Shallom,

We have a (circa '91) #28M707-0526-A1 13HP VERTICAL B&S ENGINE.

Carried it to a machine shop and they didn't feel like working on it, after they asked how far we wanted to go with the cleaning and machine work, and we offered $500-600 with them ordering the parts included.

So, it's just sitting around for us to find somewhere else to send, or scrap.

The question:

The one machinist miked <(sp?) the crank and said it was .004 out of round.

What would be the maximum allowed?

Thanks.

I would look for another used engine or short block it rather than to go through all that mess w/ a machine shop etc. When I worked for Sears a customer had this 10 HP B&S on a rider that had to have a crank. The model # was an odd ball and we had it on order from Memphis. It was summer and the grass kept growing and the customer kept calling back only to be told ..."Sorry sir, it's on order. I'll let you know as soon as it's in and I'll begin work on your mower." At any rate I got caught up on my work and took the old crank and a micrometer and went back in the parts warehouse and started eyeballing them and mic the ones I thought might fit. Found only one that had a longer flywheel end that stuck up about 2". I signed it out and called the customer. He gave me the ok to go ahead and I had it running in about an hour. Who knows how long he would have been waiting had I not improvised. I sprayed it all black after cutting a hole in the screen to fit through. He didn't even notice it when I lifted the hood! He was happy, I was happy and the grass got mowed.
 

Elias40

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Messages
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I would look for another used engine or short block it rather than to go through all that mess w/ a machine shop etc. When I worked for Sears a customer had this 10 HP B&S on a rider that had to have a crank. The model # was an odd ball and we had it on order from Memphis. It was summer and the grass kept growing and the customer kept calling back only to be told ..."Sorry sir, it's on order. I'll let you know as soon as it's in and I'll begin work on your mower." At any rate I got caught up on my work and took the old crank and a micrometer and went back in the parts warehouse and started eyeballing them and mic the ones I thought might fit. Found only one that had a longer flywheel end that stuck up about 2". I signed it out and called the customer. He gave me the ok to go ahead and I had it running in about an hour. Who knows how long he would have been waiting had I not improvised. I sprayed it all black after cutting a hole in the screen to fit through. He didn't even notice it when I lifted the hood! He was happy, I was happy and the grass got mowed.
DaveTN;87940,

Thanks. Your reply was most helpful. We already had the machine shop suggest us ditching the engine and buying a new lawnmower, which we did, as we are posting about down in the JD section of this Forum.

He didn't even notice it when I lifted the hood! He was happy, I was happy and the grass got mowed.
But in the end, you provided a solution which brought joy to the owner, and everybody wins. It's all that really matters.
 

chance123

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A good way to check for wear on the con rod/crank pin is to get some "plastigage"
Here's the link Genuine Plastigauge - How It Works



"The accurate way to measure bearing clearances"


How Plastigaugeョ works with engine bearings:

PLASTIGAUGE is comprised of a rod or thread of a compliant plastic material of accurately determined cross-section - either circular or square.

The surfaces between which measurement is to be made are first separated, PLASTIGAUGE is inserted (see fig. 2) and the surfaces are returned to their standard position.

Fig.1 . It is recommended that surfaces be clean prior to use of PLASTIGAUGE



Fig.2 . PLASTIGAUGE placed across the bearing surface



The once circular (or square) section will have been flattened but the area of the cross-section will remain unchanged. We can, therefore, state that:



or in the case of a square section of side 'a' :-



Here T, the clearance to be measured is equal to a constant divided by the width of the strip after deformation. By opening the surfaces to reveal the deformed gauge, W can be measured directly and from this the clearance, T, can be determined.


Fig. 3 Compressed Plastigauge ready for measurement



In practice the need for this calculation is obviated by the use of a calibrated scale on which an array of marks has been printed (see fig. 4).


Fig 4. De-formed Plastigauge compared with calibrated scale.


The width of the strip can be compared with the scale (see fig. 4). The actual clearance is shown alongside the mark which most nearly corresponds to the width. For greater accuracy the clearance may be interpolated between the two most nearly comparable scale marks.



APPLICATIONS

PLASTIGAUGEョ is highly effective for measuring the clearance in large bearings which include Marine Drive Shaft bearings, Turbine housing bearings, Pump and Pressure System bearings.

Shaft end-float lends itself to direct measurement by PLASTIGAUGE.
Flatness and clearance in pipe-flanges and cylinder heads are readily checked and measured with standard PLASTIGAUGE.

It is recommended that the surfaces be separated by a ground spacing washer or shim of (typically) 0.002". PLASTIGAUGE is positioned in those regions where distortion is suspected and any variations of flatness will be shown, after the assembly is dismantled, by variations in the width of the compressed PLASTIGAUGE strip.

For large bearings, multiple measurements are recommended by inserting two or more gauges around the bearing.

PLASTIGAUGE is particularly effective for the measurement of separation in moulding tools, and wherever it is required to determine the separation between hidden surfaces.


A widely used application

Perhaps the most widely used application of PLASTIGAUGEョ is in the measurement of clearance in plain automotive bearings. This application is described in detail:

Remove the engine sump cover to reveal the big-end and its retaining set-screws. Remove surplus oil and release the big-end shells by unscrewing the set-screws. Apply a smear of grease to the journal and small quantity of silicone release agent to the shell.

Trim a length of PLASTIGAUGE to fit across the journal using the grease to hold it in place. Replace the shell and tighten the set-screws to the recommended torque setting - without rotating the journal.
Now remove the shell to reveal the PLASTIGAUGE which will have been spread across the bearing surface as a stripe or band. Match the width of the stripe against the calibrated gauge card supplied and read off the clearance.

Ideally you should remove the PLASTIGAUGE stripe with a clean oily cloth or industrial de-greasing solvent, but users may be assured that any PLASTIGAUGE left behind is oil soluble and cannot harm the engine in any way.
 

Elias40

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Thanks Chance123, for posting this information. We are already acquainted with plastigauge, although we have used it for post machine shop cranks on automobile engines. Out-of-roundness would be kind of hard to check, if not impossible.

I could file the crank down with a bastard mill, just a few thousand's so I can get a cheapio 1" micro around the journal, LOL
 
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