I hit something hard and believe I damaged the governor. The numbers on this motor are 6006-23:44 D26. It’s a 15 yr old Poulenc.That number comes up nowhere on Google or in parts search’s.or I’m doing something wrong. I need a service manual for guidance on this issue. Do I just pull the motor off the mower and pull the bottom cover to access the governor? I haven’t identified the part or engine positively yet so I’m reluctant to do anything without out a proper manual. If anyone can cross that engine number ar suggest a generic manual for a 15 year old b&s lawnmower engine it would be of great help. As always, thank you in advance.
Lets take this from the top.
What did you actually do?
And what exactly is the mower doing?
Where are you taking those numbers from
A photo of the engine would be a big help
#3
Scrubcadet10
I've never seen Briggs numbers like that.
Look on the metal blower housing, either above the spark plug, or above the muffler. It may be rusty, so lightly sand the area s.
They should be stamped into the metal, not on a tag.
But, you are correct in removing the engine and unbolting the sump.
Off you do, take pictures so you remember how it goes.
In addition to the information requested by the others something to think about is if you had a sudden stoppage like you ran over something and the blade hit it and the engine died or started running real rough you might have sheared the flywheel key holding it to the crank shaft. I have done this several times with my home made brush mower. Please take and post pictures of the mower, engine and engine numbers and we should be able to better help you.
Tom
Hello all. And thanks for the response. I will take pictures and write up all the details in the AM and post them soon. Yes I hit a rock and stopped her dead. Done that many times actually. Poor thing’s been used for a bush hog a lot. More later..Peter
Please don't take the engine off and get into the inside until we know Exactly what your engine is to start with....
A couple good pics or a good description would be a great start .... Look at the pics that have been posted and tell us if that's close to your engine ....
You might have a sheared flywheel key and a bent blade.....
G’day all. The last time I stopped it on a rock I checked the blade. Not bent or loose so tried to restart as usual. It felt as though there was no compression. I turned the mower over and could spin the blade with one finger like zero compression or something broken. I was terribly sad. I have cared for yet abused this poor thing for 15 yrs. Since I’ve reached a time in life where pushing is no longer the fun it once was I took the opportunity to go to Truvalue and buy the new FWD version of this very basic mower. I’m happy about this. I put the old girl back in the shed pondering the issue till my wife asked why we still had this if it was broke and I muttered something about fixing it and I pulled the cord. There was compression! Took it out side and started it up. She said “You didn’t have to lie to get a new mower. I would have gone along.” However this did give me more to ponder. Is there a compression release on the valves that can get hung open some how and after many pulls and kicks, yes I did, it finally shook loose? Cause that’s the only explanation I can come up with. So we went back to bushwhacking. Which brings me to Pumper’s Grim Reaper. Once I get mine running Pumper we gotta talk. That’s brilliant now that I have the new dedicated lawn mower I’m all in on your mods. Love that tool! So we were walking away one fine day and she stopped. I didn’t hit any thing it didn’t run out of gas. It didn’t sputter studder and complain for a while like the carb got crapped up. It just stopped. Pulled and cleaned the carb for good measure. The air cleaner was embarrassingly dirty. Do know why. You can get 5 for $8 on Amazon. I was able to start the motor but it wouldn’t remain running unless I used something to hold the throttle plate open. Of course the motor revved too high and as soon as I release the throttle plate the governor slams it shut and the motor stops. Repeated that process many times. I at some time in the course of all this noted a noise of some sort in the sump I thought, on a few occasions, making me believe something was amiss. But that would pass so naturally I ignored it. I just tried to start it to replicate what I remember but now I appear to be sparkles as it will not even pop with a dusting of starting fluid. A dusting is what I’ll use on anyone who needs help gettin’ going. I’ get on this now too I guess. Here are the pics of my numbers. Hope this makes sense to someone.
Quick follow up. I’ve got spark. She’ll run on ether. I didn’t have time to fool with it further but I will try running it over riding the governor briefly again to confirm what I’ve told you. Maybe I should disconnect the governor and put a throttle cable on it. I’m sure I’d blow it up so that’s kinda out really. We’ll figure it out
#10
Scrubcadet10
In the last picture, do you see that flange sticking out above the muffler,
That's more than likely where your model, type, and code date is going to be.
And there is a automatic compression release on the camshaft, when you pull the rope, there is small bump above the exhaust lobe on the cam, connected to a centrifugal weight on the cam gear, when the engine kicks over and runs, the weights sling open and your compression release bump moves out of the way.
Thank you Scrubcadet. The directions on where to find the numbers was made earlier but finding that other number through me of the track. My bad. And when I make my version of the Grim Reaper I’m considering making it a rider! Gosh this stuff is fun, huh? Back to searching for manuals. Hope you all have some ideas. Let me know when to start digging.
Another follow up. Wired the throttle open and she will continue to run at too high rpm of course. The governor spring is secure and I don’t see how it could have lost so much tension. Though I wasn’t clear on what the setup looked like from day one, but all looks as it should be to me. For what that’s worth. See the pic. I might start loosening some bolts while I wait to hear more? Maybe the coil for the wood chipper will show up today and I can finish that project up before I start this one.
I now have B&S service manual 270962 in Books on my iPad. Single cyl. L-head covering the 120000 seriees engine which I’m guessing mine must be. This is the only motor covered by that manual that doesn’t have replaceable valve guides which makes sense for a motor costing $159 with a lawn mower attached. I’m going to disconnect the governor linkage and set up some hillbilly throttle adjustment and try running it and see how the governor crank responds as I manually adjust the engine speed. When I rev her up the shaft will turn to (pull) close the throttle plate. As I back off on RPM it should ease off to allow the spring to reopen the throttle as necessary and thereby bring the revs back up. Or maintain steady RPMs if it were hooked up. Then I will need to figure out why it can’t do that before the motor dies! I’m nervous about the oil slinging though now. I know I heard something odd in the sump a couple times though nothing lately. And the “freewheeling “ with what felt like no compression after the hard stop I first described leave me a little concerned. I wish I could remember how much in ran after the mysterious return to life. I hadn’t used it much since I now had the new self propelled version for the lawn and I use that word loosely but she had a couple short bushwhacking sessions before quitting. I hope all your projects are going well. If anyone needs that manual I’d be happy to upload it to the reference library if there is one and someone tells me how. Best, Peter
I made it easy on myself and simply moved the fixed end of the governor spring to apply sufficient pressure to open the throttle all the way. See pic. The new point lengthened it by 5/8” and I know this is not the way to set no load rpm. My tiny tach is on the way. So with a dribble of gas in the carb the motor stated and ran as it should. The governor spun up and knocked the rpms down by a lot and steadied out.But I can’t get a shot with my optical tach. I thought about putting it up on horses and shootin’ Upwards at the blade but that idea lost appeal quickly.:laughing:. So now I need an explanation for what happened that the governor spring no longer positions the throttle properly when in its correct attachment point. What I have now, even if I set the correct no load rpm and reattach the spring, is obviously not “correct “. I’m not getting it. There’s a lot of talent out there I know. Please chime in. By the way, I got the oil warmed a little and changed it. Ran it through a paint strainer and nothing notable. Sure not a clean bill of health but it’s a start.
Attachments
#15
cpurvis
What type of governor does this engine have? Mechanical or "weather vane?"
I recommend that you break it open and fix the governor.
If that isn't in the cards, then you need to install a motorcycle twist grip throttle. Engines which don't have a governor need to have an operator controlled throttle so that you can instantly close the throttle to prevent over-revving the engine. Without some kind of over-rev protection, your engine isn't going to last very long.
