B&S 303777 wont run after new rings

sgkent

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the best solution would be to find a mentor who can help and oversee your work. The exhaust glowing red might indicate a cam timing issue where the heat is going out the exhaust instead of being harvested for power first. If is is a two or more cylinder engine, it can be that one cylinder is not firing and the waste fuel and gasses are being burned in the exhaust stack instead. A really lean mixture can also extend the burn into the exhaust stack, so check for vacuum leaks.
 

wywy

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Alright guys I'm like 80% sure it's the carb, I did a leakdown test and I'm getting less then 4% leak on both, I disconnected the fuel pump and am having it gravity fed, I plugged the hole on the valve cover for the pump too, I also disconnected the governor, and it acted the exact same, won't start when the choke is off so letting in all the air
but will start but races too fast for throttle plate idle position when the choke is about 80-90% on, also goes up and down when I move the choke in and out, so the only thing left is the carb right?
 

Rivets

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It does sound like a carb issue, but I’m not convinced that is the only problem. You need to back up and look at a few things. Think about each of these:
1. How positive are you that your timing marks are lined up during reassembly?
2. Plugging the vacuum line for a disconnected fuel pump means nothing on a small engine.
3. Depending on the carb, some carbs which use a fuel pump will not run properly on a gravity feed setup.
4. Have you ever tested to see if both cylinders are working?
5. After you read through the manual I provided, did you go back and statically set the governor, which was compromised when you disassembled and reassembled the engine? I’ll bet not.
6. Remember I said you need patience, from what you posted I think you forgot this one. Please don’t jump to conclusions.

Having taught both small engine and auto repair, in this time and age trying to use what you know about auto repair doesn’t directly apply to small engine repair. Assuming that the fuel systems, ignition systems and timing use the same basic principles will get you in trouble. Example: automotive engine contain no governor, where the small engine governor is affected by the fuel system, ignition system and compression system (valve timing). All three work together to control governed top speed.

Please reread my post #6.
 

wywy

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Timing marks are definitely good I remember triple checking before I put it back together
I just plugged the hole when i disconnected the fuel pump because I just thought that would be good, and there was just a hole that is normally covered by the fuel pump
yea I was thinkin about the carb not running properly on gravity but it seems like it would do somthin other then the exact thing it's been doing on a pump if it can't run on gravity
I have tested both cylinders, spark, compression, timing, push rods, valves, no leaks
I did set the governor back to factory, I pretty much have the procedure memorized at this point lol but it still didn't change anything
So that's why the only thing I can think of is it's the carb thats acting up
 

Rivets

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See you are stuck to your ways, there is not much more I can do to help you. The last thing I’ll say at this point is just what I said in the last part of post #6. Looks like I was wrong. “GOOD LUCK”.
 

wywy

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I'm not exactly sure what you mean by I skipped being patient and jumping to conclusions, was I wrong to diag almost everything and then slowing cut things off until I am at one thing, the carb? My conclusion was from my diagnosis so I'm not sure what reading the manual again would do I already did that twice and there isn't really anything in there I didn't do already so I'm just confused now, you gave me a list of things which i answerd to all of them, I reset the governor like 3 or 4 times, which did nothing so I just disconnected it to have it not even be a variable, so how is that jumping to conclusions and stuff I'm just not getting this sorry
 

StarTech

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If holding the throttle lever against the idle stop screw and it goes racing sounds almost like throttle butterfly vane is missing. Should be getting that much air/fuel mix otherwise either that or you holding the throttle wide open. One other possible might one of the intake gaskets is missing and allowing an air leak.
 

wywy

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Yea I held the throttle plate on the idle screw during the test and it just started to take off it seems like full throttle, the throttle plate is in there though, I just checked the intake mana gaskets those are good, I think I might just order a new carb if I can find one, here is a pic of the throttle plate/engine side its kinda low quality though
 

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StarTech

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Hmmm. How is the throttle shaft? Not excessively worn as that can cause an air leak?

Otherwise I never had to do what you are describing.
 

wywy

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Hmm, I will check that soon that's a good theory I haven't thought of that
 
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