All good. Flywheel fine. Battery correct. Ignition switch cleaned and checked with a meter in all positions, I even installed a new one before I found the pin out diagram to check the old one.
Suggest you unplug the "Kill wire" harness at the base of each coil and try it. Sounds to me like a bad harness.
Walt Conner
No luck...both disconnected, same result
Sorry I misunderstood the question. How can I test that the coil is ungrounded? I have pulled both plugs and I have spark on both.What do you mean by..."coil grounded, yes.
I was making the point the coil should not be grounded.
When the key is turned to "off"...that grounds the coil and kills the spark. To shut off mower. Other things "safety switches" can ground the coil to prevent spark.
Normally the coil grounds through the spark plug as the engine runs...jumping the gap to ground to provide spark.
Sorry I misunderstood the question. How can I test that the coil is ungrounded? I have pulled both plugs and I have spark on both.
I was understanding you did NOT have spark..
If you have spark now...
If the engine turns over...
The mower should start with a very small shot of starting fluid...with choke open
It may die right a way...but it should start...
Will it?
I had only pulled one head. I did go back and check/adjust the rockers on both and rotating the engine the valves seem to be working correctlyNo mention of checking the valves after pulling the heads off
Oil breather is the only thing uncheck, it's under the flywheelIF .... you have fuel... and spark ...... it has to be timing, that's all an engine requires, it should at least attempt to run.
Oil breather & intake MANIFOLD not blocked, ?? muffler not blocked ?? ...
If all your info is correct and the things you did are correct and with all the comments made and you say you already did that and you have this and you have that I would have to say there is one thing compression. If you say you have that my next post will be there no fix other than a new engine
I had only pulled one head. I did go back and check/adjust the rockers on both and rotating the engine the valves seem to be working correctly
Yes tdc judged buy valve movements, confirmed with a wooden rod in the plug socketYou set the valve clearance correctly at TDC on that cylinder?
Well I hate to say this but if you took the cam out you had to touch the other head at some time if not your lifters would be still in the block and your rods are too. You had to adjust the valves if you pulled the cam out if not then how did you get the rods back in and if not then how did you adjust the valves. Seems to be going in a circle about your problems your having with the engine. Just trying to clear things up a bit and what you a missing on getting your engine running.how about what you set your valves at? Starter fluid as in lighter fluid for grills or something more????? Try some either and see what happens
Crank/cam timing marks were right when reassembled to me that means they have been removed. Double check your valves and if you did set them what did u set them at?
"ALSO... have you checked each safety switch in the system, ..??"
He said he tried it with both kill wires disconnected at the base of the coils which would eliminate all safety switches from the circuit.
"you set the valve clearance correctly at TDC on that cylinder?"
"Yes tdc judged buy valve movements, confirmed with a wooden rod in the plug socket"
NO, this is not correct. Valve clearance is not set at TDC. And the work he did would not affect the valve clearance of the other cylinder and these engines will start quit easily and run on one cylinder.
"fuse checked on a multitester good, I ever cleaned out the fuse holder with contact cleaner. "
"fuse checked on a multitester good,"
I would suspect carb solenoid but I think he said he tried dribbling fuel down carb which should make it fire a few times. Try jumper between battery cable to the starter solenoid and the small wire on the starter solenoid IF it only has one small wire. IF it has 2 small wire terminals, jump to the one which does NOT go to ground. IF it has 2 small wire terminals, one should be connected to ground. This is a check for turning over on tractor battery not for why it is not firing.
I can send you a Service Manual for your engine IF you like which will tell you proper valve adjustment procedure among other things. Address below.
Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com (put in proper format)
PS: I guess he said he checked the carb solenoid - something is being over looked as there has to be a reason for both not turning over with key then not starting when jumper.
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