Autochoke link and bi-metalic thermostat

[EngineMan]

Maybe, I don't know to be honest. There's a shutter inside the carb that I can't see when the carb is installed on the mower. Then there's a shutter right there on the outside of the carb, which I posted a picture of, that you can see when you take the air filter off. When that is open, the mower runs ragged and gets way too much fuel. When it is approaching closed, the mower runs better, but the spring/arm is allowing it to flop back and forth and it is still too rich and sputtering eventually losing power to where the engine dies. If I take a screwdriver and hold that shutter closed, the mower runs at top speed with no sputtering at all, but it's running to fast for me to just manually close that up. I can pretty much get the mower started whether it's cold or warm, but it just won't run worth a squat. Again, I'll post a video soon that shows what it's doing as I'm sure that'll show much more accurately the symptoms versus my ignorant ramblings. :smile: I understand the basics of how engines operate, but I'm still learning the nuances of all the various systems on all these various mowers. I wish they'd all come up with something that works and leave well enough alone. I've got 5 push mowers, 4 of them the same brand, and every single one of them handle the choke and throttle differently. (sigh) I don't mind learning, I just have a hard time keeping up with all the changes the older I get. :confused2:

You can see the choke shutter in your second photo, yes the one on the outside of the carb, if it runs ragged and gets too much fuel then there is something wrong with the carb. also check the gasket. (O ring)

 

[Johns_Pop]

Here's the video finally:

When I took the carb off the first time, the float was held in place by a pin on each side. One of the pins had come out of the holder and I snapped it back in place. I didn't think to run a wire in that hole to clean that out though, so maybe I need to take it back out and do that. The gasket looked good and in place, but I didn't "inspect" it, nothing looked out of place, so I didn't bother anything in there. I'll open it back up and take another look at the carb unless this video shows something glaring to you guys.

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

Yes you have a carb issue. When you take the bowl off the bottom you will see a double nozzle plastic piece in there. Very carefully take that out and then clean all the passages. The o rings on that might be bad too. A new jet assembly is about 10 Bux. You can pop it in and it will run like new ~!~!

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

The main jet part # is 592792 Regular altitude if you are way up in the mountains then you have to get the high altitude jet.

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

I just re read your post. Did you say the FLOAT BOWL was held in by 2 pins ?? Only one in my days of working on these newer E series ~!~!

Your pin could be broke and that very well could be your problem Mon Ami ~!~!

 

[zman111666]

I think what's tripping everybody up, is that you said a couple times, "when the choke is open all the way, it runs too rich (gets too much fuel)" (paraphrasing there). That just doesn't make sense. The engine gets more fuel (runs richer) with the choke closed. Like when it's cold, the choke closes, making the engine run richer, and when it warms up, the choke fully opens, leaning out the carb (less fuel), so it will run normally. If you are getting too much fuel with an open choke, that has absolutely nothing to do with the choke.
HOWEVER... If it is warm out, or the engine is warm, and you have to choke it (close the choke) to get it to run right, that means it isn't getting enough fuel with the choke open, likely due to a dirty carb, or some blockage somewhere in the fuel system, like a clogged jet, or a collapsed fuel line, or dirt in the tank, or old fuel.
The only time that choke should ever be closed is when it's cold.

 

[Johns_Pop]

I do have to admit, although I can do minor repairs and I do understand how a 4 stroke engine works, I'm certainly not a small engine mechanic by any means and I'm sure the terms I use are probably incorrect. Not the bowl, just the float.... the float, what I'm *calling* the float is a white piece of plastic and a single pin goes through it which snaps into a channel on each side. When I take it apart, I'll provide pictures that will show my incorrect descriptions. And Zman, I guess you're right, I even thought about that yesterday when I told my son it was getting too much fuel..... I was like, wait..... what? I'll try to get it back open this afternoon, check those jets and take some pics of the inside of my carb. I appreciate everyone's patience and help!

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

I transposed it. I mean't BOWL FLOAT or the white float.