Got one of these in the workshop, choke stays closed when engine is hot so is impossible to restart hot.
No identifing stickers with model numbers
Can't find a 20" model in any of the usual places so any one with any ideas where to look ?
Model number ?
It has the fixed throttle, single bail control and mulching only base plate with 4 wheel adjusters.
My wholesaler does not do the small Loncin engines, only the ones fitted to ride ons.
This should help you out. Rear bagger or mulcher. Loncin engines are about all the same. Let me know if I can be of any more help. https://www.toro.com/getpub/68400
Thank - you good sir.
The link did not work, but it could very well have a location bar on it however the information was enough to send me in the right direction
Looks like the 20" is an Australian exclusive model
Deck is big enough to swing the 22" blade
But the important thing is I now know it is called "control - thermal " and a part # 133-9907 can now be ordered.
Are these as frail as the equivalent B & S ones ?
The customer is gifting this mower to his elderly sister in law because it is very easy to start.
So I am of 2 minds if I should fix it or fit a manual choke
To be honest, that is the first time I’ve heard about one of those going bad. Done Briggs, Honda and worked with Kohler to solve theirs, but never had a problem with Loncin. If it were me I’d fix it, but you know I’m the guy with no patience or empathy. Good Luck
OK,
I will yield to your greater experience.
This is the very first one of these I have come across.
In fact I have only seen a Briggs auto choke twice and both those needed replacing as the muffler had fallen off.
OK,
We all know that old adage
Most ignition problems are in the carburettor &
most carburettor problems are in the ignition
Well replaced the auto choke which was not working and the engine still was not reliable when hot.
Traced it back to the kill switch just contacting which looks like it is caused by the cable stretching.
However the throttle plate still is not as far open when hot as I would think it should be.
Any of you who know, how do the following photos look
Should I bend the link to get the throttle plate open further when hot ?
Engine cold
Engine Hot
Bert, engine cold pic does not open. Engine hot pic shows the choke butterfly is not open fully. I would bend the linkage to get it full open. Let me know if this works as I’ve not run into this problem. Normally it’s a hard cold starting. Have you checked the idle jet, as I have found that if you punch them to .018” it makes it easier to start hot or cold.
No worries, I will try too fix it.
The closed is fully closed it was just there for comparison.
I was not sure just how far it should be open when hot I am used to the Hondas that are full off when hot.
So I will give the linkage a little "mechanical rectification "
There is a second linkage to an air vane to hold the choke fully open when running & this is a fixed throttle set up, not a favourite either.
The actual problem was cable stretch allowing the chintzy cut out switch to ground out when the mower was hot.
A little "mechanical rectification" to the mounting plate has that overcome as well
If there was wear in the zinc Z terminals I would have no reservations in replacing the non adjustable cable but there is barely a mark.
The owner said it was difficult to start & he did not like the dead man's throttle/brake set up so it has been sitting in the back of the shed for a while.
I will tweak that link & send it back tomorrow, glad to have it out of the yard.
Assume this is the bottom end budget model.
Thank you again.
On that carb there should be a plastic idle jet. It is located under the fake idle speed screw. Remove the screw and pop out the jet. It likes to clog causing hard starting. I clean it using a .016” micro drill. Check that the small O-ring is still there. If it is clogged, opening solves the hard starting problem 90% of the time.
Already replaced it.
Ran 2 tanks through it yesterday, lopping the top of 3' tall tussock grass to put the engine under a lot of load.
Stopped it every couple of minutes then did a restart
Fired up every time on the 2nd revolution so now considered fixed.
Spent way too much time on this one .
Glad to hear you got it going. Haven’t run into one like that since the first year Toro started using Loncin engines. That first year was hell, but after they reworked the engine and carb, only real problem I’ve seen is plugged jets, due to extended fuel storage. If you have it yet, could you post the units serial number, I’d like to know the year of the unit.
That was the whole reason for the post in the first place.
Looks like he has been using a catcher of come sort as the ID tag is missing.
The engine has no numbers on it either.
Usually the Loncins have a model & serial electro etched into the cases near the carb or at the back but nothing on this engine at all apart from the head casting number.
Got some photos if you can identify it by that.
There is an EPA tag on the side , a bar code on the deck & a sure start sticker on the engine.
A bit late but we have 4th world internet down here.
I had used my 10Gb of "peak" period data ( 8am to 3 am is considered peak ) so got choked to 256 kb/sec which ends up being 30 kb/sec at my modem.
And this is called Broadband :laughing:
Any way could not upload any photos so here they are now.
Don't know if anything on it is identifiable age wise.
I put the tap in and moved the filter so you cab take the carb off easily
It looks exactly like the Toro model 20314, except that the 314 has electric start. With that shaped deck I’d say it is no more than 7-8 years old. Here is a manual for a 2011 unit, which may be of some help in the future. It has a Loncin engine breakdown, and in my limited experience of Loncin, we’ve only seen them for about 10 years, most engine parts are interchangeable. If you ever need help on Toro please feel free to contact me. Not the brightest color on the chart, but know enough to get you in trouble. https://www.toro.com/getpub/68391
Don't know why but that link just brings up a blank window
However I can usually log into the USA Toro web page using a URL Spoofer to pretend I am in the USA and download from there.
like most Aust web pages the local Toro one has no downloads on it , just advertising & the specs of current models.
So now I have a model number to search for will be easy peasy.
Thanks again.
Looks like there was some thing designed to be bolted to the rear right side of the deck, lots of holes.
Hopefully I will not be seeing this mower again for a long time.
We don't get many Toro push mowers down here, mainly the SP's and wide area walk behinds.
Toro Aust did a big push into local council ( local government) & golf courses a few years back but most of them seem to be returning to JD
Oz is a tough market for push mowers and we have been spoiled by having single lever height controls & snorkels for decades.
However the landlord did like the fact that it can cut at nearly 6" the sort of height we have adjusted the pasture mowers to cut at.
And I can get into trouble all by myself, loads of experience of doing that.
Like right now chasing 25 year old Shindiawa parts that may never have existed in the first place.
Never seen a line trimmer with a 34mm diameter shaft before.
