ATCO lightweight starting

Hmmmmm...... I've completely cleaned and reassembled the carb now and still I'm only getting a few pops and fires, no actual starting!

Any other ideas?
Thanks abelw44
 
abelw44 said:
Hmmmmm...... I've completely cleaned and reassembled the carb now and still I'm only getting a few pops and fires, no actual starting!

Any other ideas?
Thanks abelw44
Click to expand...

did you ultrasonic clean the carb ? if not you may still have a blockage in there also i have had a duff plug give the same problem you are having just pop but not run
try a different plug just to eliminate that from your list also what mix are you using?

also check your timing this some info i found on another site

Have a look on the end of the crankshaft, you should see a mark which will match up to a mark on the flywheel rim. If you can't find these marks, try about 5 degrees before TDC. Calculate the circumference of the flywheel, divide that by 360 and then times the result by 5. That will give you the distance to mark BEFORE TDC. I cannot remember the exact timing setting for these engines, but around 5 degrees should get you started, you can then adjust from there to find that engines sweet spot. You want the points just beginning to open when your 5 degrees before mark is in the top dead position



bill
 
Last edited:
My timing is lined up.
I'm using a rough 20:1 mix.
No i didnt ultrasonic clean t because I dont have a bath.
I tested the plug on another mower and it seems fine
 
Are you sure 20/1 mix is correct? Haven't seen a mixture that rich since the early 60's. Could be your problem.
 
abelw44 said:
My timing is lined up.
I'm using a rough 20:1 mix.
No i didnt ultrasonic clean t because I dont have a bath.
I tested the plug on another mower and it seems fine
Click to expand...

if you have good spark, good compression it can only be the carb what happens if you spray some mix straight in the air intake will it run for a few secs then cut out? if so it is the carb also have you checked for crankcase leaks eg crank seals, case gaskets etc you will need a pressure / vacuum testing kit for this
pressure to 7psi no more then vacuum test to 1/2 bar this will test the seals / gaskets whats the piston looking like any deep scores, exhaust port is this clear?
hope this helps

if you do need the carb ultrasonic cleaned we can do it for £15 + return delivery
we use a crest 27ltr ultrasonic cleaner ( cost over £2000 )

bill
 
I understand that, but a 20/1 mixture may not be right. I would remove all fuel and get fresh fuel using the new synthetic 2cycle oil. Can be used in all two cycle air cooled engines. This will have a higher volatility rating and should give it a bang. He has done everything else and does get it to fire with starting fluid. Just my opinion, when all else has failed.
 
Rivets said:
I understand that, but a 20/1 mixture may not be right. I would remove all fuel and get fresh fuel using the new synthetic 2cycle oil. Can be used in all two cycle air cooled engines. This will have a higher volatility rating and should give it a bang. He has done everything else and does get it to fire with starting fluid. Just my opinion, when all else has failed.
Click to expand...
i agree 20:1 with modern 2 stoke oil may be wrong but 20:1 is what the manufacture recommended then but this was with sae30 oil not the modern synthetic oil we all use now i would try 25:1 or 33:1 with a good 2 stoke oil you will still get plenty of lubricant i use stihl hp plus but any good 2 stoke oil will be fine up to 50:1

bill
 
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