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At My Wits End

#1

S

suggsd

I have a 11 hp Briggs/Stratton engine on a log splitter and it is not running . I have checked flywheel key ,checked valves for operation , looked at piston and cylinder walls ,they looked great , compression is 120 psi , squirted gas in carb and all I get is "put" , checked for spark with spark plug out next to head and goes orange to white on spark . I don't know what is wrong with this thing . Can anyone point me in the right direction . I need some relief .


#2

BlazNT

BlazNT

First I would replace spark plug and fuel filter, Then check valve lash. Remove all fuel from tank and fuel lines. If you have air compressor the blow out fuel lines. While at auto parts store for spark plug get some starter fluid. After you replace spark plug squirt a little starter fluid in the carb and see if it starts. If it starts then use a little more to see if you can keep it running. If you can the you need to remove and clean carb.
Dirty carb
Down and dirty: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBL-BUj0c6E
More technical: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAk_WDt3AD8


#3

P

Pumper54

Adding to what BlazNT said, make sure you are using fresh gas as most of today's fuel goes bad real quick. Insure that the fuel line is clear and that the petcock (if any) is turned ON and that the air filter is clean and as required. Good luck and let us know how it goes. So many folks come on here ask and question or three , get advise and we never hear back from them. We learn something ourselves each time we help someone else.

Tom


#4

S

suggsd

Pumper54 said:
Adding to what BlazNT said, make sure you are using fresh gas as most of today's fuel goes bad real quick. Insure that the fuel line is clear and that the petcock (if any) is turned ON and that the air filter is clean and as required. Good luck and let us know how it goes. So many folks come on here ask and question or three , get advise and we never hear back from them. We learn something ourselves each time we help someone else.

Tom
Click to expand...

Yeah I get that . Fuel was fresh and even squirted starter fluid and still all I got was "put" . One other thing I forgot to mention and I don't even know if it is relevant . When I was operating log splitter I had to run splitter on part choke position for it to run smoothly . I assumed it wasn't getting enough fuel and was too lean .


#5

P

Pumper54

suggsd,

If you have to run with the choke on to get it to run it sound like you have an intake leak. Double check the mounting bolts for the carb and also the manifold. If you can get it to run, spray a bit of WD-40 around the carb/manifold to see if the RPMs change, if they do then you have a leak. If you determine that the carb is bad (it does happen) they are cheap and plentiful on line or at your local mower shop.

Tom


#6

S

suggsd

What is the torque and torque sequence for the head ? I removed it the other day just to check everything out like valve action , valve condition and cylinder wall condition . Everything looked great except for a little carbon build-up which I scraped off with my pocket knife . I am really perplexed at what is wrong with this engine that is why I'm at my wits end . I will try a new plug next and see if that does anything .


#7

BlazNT

BlazNT

Engine model number for that info. First thing you should have done was replace the spark plug.


#8

P

Pumper54

Have an older Murray riding mower that had a VERY hard starting issue, changed out the spark plugs and it runs like a top. Put in a new properly gaped plug and see if that help. As for the torques specs we would need more info on the engine. Find the data plate and give the info on it.
Tom


#9

S

suggsd

BlazNT said:
Engine model number for that info. First thing you should have done was replace the spark plug.
Click to expand...

I replaced the coil last year and put a known good spark plug and still same result .


#10

BlazNT

BlazNT

I NEED THE MODEL NUMBER OFF THE ENGINE BEFORE I CAN HELP MORE. Spark plugs are cheap and each engine requires a different gap or heat range. The correct plug needs to be in the engine.


#11

S

suggsd

BlazNT said:
I NEED THE MODEL NUMBER OFF THE ENGINE BEFORE I CAN HELP MORE. Spark plugs are cheap and each engine requires a different gap or heat range. The correct plug needs to be in the engine.
Click to expand...

The only # that I can find is Family YBSXS.4652VB 275086 . Thanks Clyde


#12

cpurvis

cpurvis

suggsd said:
The only # that I can find is Family YBSXS.4652VB 275086 . Thanks Clyde
Click to expand...

That is probably on an adhesive sticker, right? The number you're looking for is stamped into the sheet metal of the engine somewhere. Sometimes you have to remove a layer of grime to see it. Look in the vicinity of the muffler and spark plug.


#13

S

suggsd

cpurvis said:
That is probably on an adhesive sticker, right? The number you're looking for is stamped into the sheet metal of the engine somewhere. Sometimes you have to remove a layer of grime to see it. Look in the vicinity of the muffler and spark plug.
Click to expand...

By George I think I've found it . 28D702 1142-E1 020313ZD


#14

B

bertsmobile1

suggsd said:
By George I think I've found it . 28D702 1142-E1 020313ZD
Click to expand...

:drink:

Yes George you have


#15

B

bertsmobile1

When youhad the head off did you check for obstructions in the muffler ?
Mug pluggers, small rodents etc seem to like to set up shop in there.
If the muffler is blocked the exhaust can not get out and the engine chokes on it's own exhaust gas.

Alloy block you are looking at 15-25 ft/lbs.
Number is not critical
All being the same is


#16

S

suggsd

bertsmobile1 said:
When youhad the head off did you check for obstructions in the muffler ?
Mug pluggers, small rodents etc seem to like to set up shop in there.
If the muffler is blocked the exhaust can not get out and the engine chokes on it's own exhaust gas.

Alloy block you are looking at 15-25 ft/lbs.
Number is not critical
All being the same is
Click to expand...

Will check for blockage . Glad to hear from our friends from down under . Good day mate .


#17

J

JonnyBlaze

I just recently had a mower that wouldn't start unless I sprayed starter fluid in carb and come to find out, it was bad gas from the year before. Flushed the fuel out and put in fresh gas and it started right up. Runs like a champ.


#18

S

suggsd

BlazNT said:
First I would replace spark plug and fuel filter, Then check valve lash. Remove all fuel from tank and fuel lines. If you have air compressor the blow out fuel lines. While at auto parts store for spark plug get some starter fluid. After you replace spark plug squirt a little starter fluid in the carb and see if it starts. If it starts then use a little more to see if you can keep it running. If you can the you need to remove and clean carb.
Dirty carb
Down and dirty: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBL-BUj0c6E
More technical: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAk_WDt3AD8
Click to expand...

I checked valve lash clearance and was in limits . One thing I noticed was that when I turned the flywheel I could feel a lot of air blow out of valve blow-by tube . Is that normal ?


#19

BlazNT

BlazNT

I'm out.


#20

cpurvis

cpurvis

suggsd said:
I checked valve lash clearance and was in limits . One thing I noticed was that when I turned the flywheel I could feel a lot of air blow out of valve blow-by tube . Is that normal ?
Click to expand...

Single cylinder engines are pumps. As they bring air and gas in the cylinder with the downward movement of the piston, they also force a corresponding amount of crankcase air out because the volume of the crankcase decreases as the piston travels down. It is this very thing that makes 2-cycle engines possible.

So, yes, air coming out of the crankcase is normal.


#21

S

suggsd

cpurvis said:
Single cylinder engines are pumps. As they bring air and gas in the cylinder with the downward movement of the piston, they also force a corresponding amount of crankcase air out because the volume of the crankcase decreases as the piston travels down. It is this very thing that makes 2-cycle engines possible.

So, yes, air coming out of the crankcase is normal.
Click to expand...

I never realized that but that is only way it could function .


#22

S

suggsd

BlazNT said:
I'm out.
Click to expand...

I really like your quote that's a good one and very true .


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