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Hello all!
Suddenly my old 917.258914 lawn tractor has decided not to start. It has the Kohler CV22S engine.
I mowed with it one day and put it away (in the barn), then a few days later went to mow some more and no start. It cranks fine, just won't fire. Gas flows freely through the lines, I replaced the fuel filter anyway. It's difficult for me to check the spark with all the safeties working, but I really only see spark during a couple of revs after I turn the key off while the engine coasts to a stop. If I spray carb cleaner into the carb sometimes it will fire once or twice, but only as soon as I turn off the key from cranking. It has also fired a few times like this (but only rarely) without the spray.
Before that I thought maybe the fuel shut-off solenoid in the carb was jammed shut... but when taping it's lead to positive I can hear a faint click, then another when I remove power from it.
I know my way around electronics and meters and all, just am not real familiar with engine electrical systems.
Thoughts?

Of course the logical question is "does the fuel shut-off solenoid actually get energized when turning the key?" The answer turned out to be "No".
Checking the lead to the solenoid revealed no voltage at "key on".
So I tried jumping the fuel shut-off solenoid lead (disconnected of course) TO 12v then hit the key. After cranking a couple of seconds with choke I could see fuel vapor coming out the exhaust but still no start. Key off and CHUG CHUG, it sort-of fired a couple of times while spinning down.
So it looks like an electrical issue. The starter is energizing, but not the ignition system. Maybe one of the safety interlocks? One of the key switch contacts? But why would it fire briefly at key-off?
The hunt is on.

I think I have found the culprit. Unplugging the harness connector from the key switch revealed that one side of it is melted and the associated connector blade corroded. I'll have to see if I can order a new connector. I would be removing the key switch right now, but a storm system is moving in, had to put everything back in the barn for the night.
Can just the connector be ordered, or must one order the whole harness? Looks like I need to check out Sears Parts Direct.

Oh, wonderful. The connector is not listed on the Sears parts site, and the harness is "no longer available".
Any suggestions on finding a replacement connector?
I suppose I could just do away with the connector and put female quick-connect terminals on the wires. I would have to make up a chart of which wire goes where. Is this what y'all do?

Arthur Dent said:

Oh, wonderful. The connector is not listed on the Sears parts site, and the harness is "no longer available".
Any suggestions on finding a replacement connector?
I suppose I could just do away with the connector and put female quick-connect terminals on the wires. I would have to make up a chart of which wire goes where. Is this what y'all do?

Click to expand...

Get some butt ends and just make your own.
Or find a small shop with a yard full of old mowers and ask them for one

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))

Arthur Dent said:

Oh, wonderful. The connector is not listed on the Sears parts site, and the harness is "no longer available".
Any suggestions on finding a replacement connector?
I suppose I could just do away with the connector and put female quick-connect terminals on the wires. I would have to make up a chart of which wire goes where. Is this what y'all do?

Click to expand...

The 5 pin plastic connector and the female electrical ends are available aftermarket. I think I saw the 7 pin someplace, but don't remember were. I have never seen the 6 pin connector any place though.

This is the 7 pin one.

Actually, since only one pin is involved, I might be able to just cut out that section of the connector to leave that spade on the switch exposed. Then I could put a female quick-connect terminal on that wire and be done with it. Might try that tomorrow.

Once I got the battery out of the way and the connector out in the open it was simple to cut away the plastic from around the bad area. Then I discovered that the connector itself was ok after a little touch-up with needle nose pliers and a wire brush. The spade on the key switch got a touch-up as well and everything went back together just fine.
Started right up and I mowed with it for an hour and a half.

:thumbsup: