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Hello I done it again, I purchased another SNAPPER!!

Got an SR1433, from a local guy for $250 has a 15hp Kohler Command. Mower seems to be in good shape on the hole but does have a few tiny rust holes in the deck, Mostly under the belt guard. There is one problem though of which I do not seem to be able to figure out. The top part of the silver tag containing the Model number is torn off so I have no idea on the model number. The previous owner replaced the disc but I am not sure why it is rubbing against the lift yoke especially in 1st gear. I have tried adjusting the cable to the brake petal but that did not seem to help. Any ideas and how can I find a manual for mine without the model number. And how to fix the problem with the lift yoke.


Patman

And here are some pics of the new project..:wink:

Hey that looks good. First, I would check eBay for manuals. My 33" rer is a 2004 331623BVE re-powered with a 12hp Briggs. The best I could guess on yours is it's a 1990s model. I know that's not much help but maybe if the engine is original u could use the model/type/code off of it to help. As for the disc, there should be two Allen-head bolts on the disc that attach it to the engine shaft. Maybe backing those off a bit and moving the disc up or down might help? I'm kinda new to the rer thing but I thought I'd offer all the info I have.

Forgot to ask....................how many other snappers do u have??

Snapperfreak said:

Forgot to ask....................how many other snappers do u have??

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1 more the one pictured in my profile

Snapperfreak said:

Hey that looks good. First, I would check eBay for manuals. My 33" rer is a 2004 331623BVE re-powered with a 12hp Briggs. The best I could guess on yours is it's a 1990s model. I know that's not much help but maybe if the engine is original u could use the model/type/code off of it to help. As for the disc, there should be two Allen-head bolts on the disc that attach it to the engine shaft. Maybe backing those off a bit and moving the disc up or down might help? I'm kinda new to the rer thing but I thought I'd offer all the info I have.

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The disc is the part on the gear box with the rubber strip around it that hits the drive wheel you are referring too on the engine shaft. Though that may be the answer perhaps that will let the gear box tilt up more thus clearing the lift yoke. I will see and let you know thanks.

Patman

Patman68 said:

The disc is the part on the gear box with the rubber strip around it that hits the drive wheel you are referring too on the engine shaft. Though that may be the answer perhaps that will let the gear box tilt up more thus clearing the lift yoke. I will see and let you know thanks.

Patman

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*****UPDATE*****

I found the problem it was the clutch/brake cable that was way to loose I used all the spacers on the petal and it did pull it off the disc but not by much seems the cable has streched a bit too long. May be time for a replacement cable.

Make sure your belt is the correct tension first. Belt adjustment changes the length of the mower, which affects the cables. Steel cables don't stretch.

Mow Joe said:

Make sure your belt is the correct tension first. Belt adjustment changes the length of the mower, which affects the cables. Steel cables don't stretch.

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Okay will do thanks for the tip..

The SR models take a Snapper OEM shim to adjust the belt/frame length.
"https://www.ereplacementparts.com/spacer-pivot-p-1661207.html"
These will lengthen the mower frame and tighten the belt,effectively "shortening" the clutch cable.
Too many shims will not allow the blade to disengage when the blade pedal is released.
The drive disc plate on the engine shaft may be adjusted too low on the engine shaft,letting it hit the lift yoke when the clutch pedal is depressed. I currently have only one Snapper,but have had as many as 6 RERs. (I know,but I like 'em!)

I have the same SR1433 with the Briggs I/C 14.5hp monster on it. Great engine made before the head gasket blowing Inteks.

What I've found is the distance from the driven disk to the drive disk has to be spot on. Make sure you get OEM Snapper rubber replacement driven disks. Others are different OD sizes that change the spacing as described previously.

This guy makes AWESOME Snapper videos on the RER.

Good video. He does make it a bit complicated. I lift the back of my Snapper RER up with my overhead winch and put the gear lever in highest speed setting and put a bar clamp on the clutch pedal to hold it depressed fully. I then loosen the set screws in the drive plate hub and adjust the plate to a 1/4" clearance of the rubber driven disc. This gives me good engagement and good disengagement declutching. I do have that Snapper setting tool,but this is what works well for me and is quick to do.

SamB said:

Good video. He does make it a bit complicated. I lift the back of my Snapper RER up with my overhead winch and put the gear lever in highest speed setting and put a bar clamp on the clutch pedal to hold it depressed fully. I then loosen the set screws in the drive plate hub and adjust the plate to a 1/4" clearance of the rubber driven disc. This gives me good engagement and good disengagement declutching. I do have that Snapper setting tool,but this is what works well for me and is quick to do.

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I think he makes it pretty simple. Guess some are more familiar with those machines? I would watch all of Jim's videos if i were you. You will be a Snapper RER expert afterwards.

My pulley is rusted slash locked onto the crankshaft. Removed the 2 set screws. Sucker won't budge at all.

slomo

BTW, that model Snapper RER is a great machine. I would not sell mine for anything. They don't make the new RER's like that anymore. I keep waiting on mine to break down so I can put some love into her. She keeps right on mowing like she was new. No telling how old my deck belt is?? I've had my RER for like 7 seasons. Used belt was on it when I got it. It was rough looking back then LOL. All these new other branded machines tossing belts..... LOL

slomo

I agree,watching videos made by an expert Snapper man is a great education on the RER quirks,if one would call them that. They are well thoughtout and well built,at least they were,new one's,not sure. I have owned a number of the RERs through the years,starting in the mid 1970's. I lucked out when I found my current and favorite Snapper rer. It's a 33" Extra Tough semi commercial model. I have also 'rescued' many of the RERs,repaired them and found them new homes. Many of them needed the safety switches and blade brake reinstalled,they are there for very good reasons. All that said,the Youtube videos are so educational and even if one 'thinks' they know it all,if they are working on their mower,watching the videos can do nothing but be a BIG help. I have a coulpe of bigger ,wider cut mowers,one a ZTR,but none of them give the quality of cut the Hi-Vac deck does. IMHO.

slomo said:

I think he makes it pretty simple. Guess some are more familiar with those machines? I would watch all of Jim's videos if i were you. You will be a Snapper RER expert afterwards.

My pulley is rusted slash locked onto the crankshaft. Removed the 2 set screws. Sucker won't budge at all.

slomo

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If you have the 'screw-on' aluminum drive plate,you can unscrew it and use a jaw puller on the hub. If you have the one piece steel drive,that's a tough one. I have in the past,drilled and tapped puller holes in the steel plates and used a steering wheel type puller to get them removed. This,of course,will entail replacing the plate,but unless it was installed at an incorrect height to start with,replacing it needs to be anyway. Excessive rust pitting have been the reasons for me to remove a steel one. The aluminum ones do wear out,but can just be unscrewed and leave the hub in place,provided the hub was correctly adjusted originally. Always anti-seize the hub when replacing with a new one.

slomo said:

I think he makes it pretty simple. Guess some are more familiar with those machines? I would watch all of Jim's videos if i were you. You will be a Snapper RER expert afterwards.

My pulley is rusted slash locked onto the crankshaft. Removed the 2 set screws. Sucker won't budge at all.

slomo

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Did you ever get the drive disc to move and if so how did you do it? Jim's videos do not cover the steel disc removal as far I can tell.

mustakoira7 said:

Did you ever get the drive disc to move and if so how did you do it? Jim's videos do not cover the steel disc removal as far I can tell.

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I haven't worked on it in years (thank you Snapper). Totally forgot how I did it. No, couldn't get the driven disk off the crankshaft loose. I moved the drive disk with rubber ring closer to the driven disk off the crank. Think I posted about it years ago on another mower forum. Think it was my tractor forum??

Rubber drive ring, should go into the center of the driven disk off crankshaft, like 1/8" or 1/4" in neutral. You need to measure this as this adjustment is critical in good clutch operation. So when you put the lever in grear, you have good contact with the rubber ring. There is also a strong spring that keeps the rubber ring against the driven disk.

Thinking on it. I elongated bolt holes on the back of the mower where you can tow stuff. Bolts that hold on the rubber drive disk and such underneath. Doing this moved the rubber ring closer to the driven disk off the crank. Look at yours and see what I'm trying to talk about. Just think, you need to move the rubber disk up towards engine. How could I.........

Again using aftermarket rubber drive rings is NOT advised. Get real Snapper parts only. They are not the same OD size and the clutch doesn't work at all or near as good. Also use inferior rubber that doesn't last.

If the rubber ring is spaced proper, I can tow a 48" core aerator, 8 cinder blocks (43lbs each) and my 120lb wife in hard clay soil. All that uphill no problem. She bags like no other, side slings and mulches with the best of them.