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A couple of years ago advice from this forum helped me set the air gap on my Ogura clutch on my Freedom Z. Everything seemed fine until recently when I started hearing a loud "scraping" sound seemingly coming from the clutch when the blades are disengaged. No unusual sound when engaged. I checked the air gap and set all three points to .015. The sound still exists. With the blade belt removed and engine running I hear the sound when there is no power to the clutch. Perfectly quiet when power is applied. I can rotate the clutch back and forth about 5 to 10 degrees and hear a "clanking" sound at the end of travel each way. If I rotate the clutch continuously by hand, I hear the same sort of scraping sound (not nearly as loud of course). This is the original clutch on this 17 year old mower. Am I looking at a clutch replacement, or some other possible solution?

Thanks for replies.

LSU-Mike said:

A couple of years ago advice from this forum helped me set the air gap on my Ogura clutch on my Freedom Z. Everything seemed fine until recently when I started hearing a loud "scraping" sound seemingly coming from the clutch when the blades are disengaged. No unusual sound when engaged. I checked the air gap and set all three points to .015. The sound still exists. With the blade belt removed and engine running I hear the sound when there is no power to the clutch. Perfectly quiet when power is applied. I can rotate the clutch back and forth about 5 to 10 degrees and hear a "clanking" sound at the end of travel each way. If I rotate the clutch continuously by hand, I hear the same sort of scraping sound (not nearly as loud of course). This is the original clutch on this 17 year old mower. Am I looking at a clutch replacement, or some other possible solution?

Thanks for replies.

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Remove the deck belt
Engage and disengage the clutch
Does it still make the noise when disengaged?
Does the belt pulley stop spinning when the clutch is disengaged?

If the belt pulley keeps turning when the clutch is disengaged and make the scraping noise the bearing in the clutch is probably bad.

Hammermech - thanks for your reply. Because I've seen on various forums that individuals have different understandings for "engaged" and "disengaged" I'm saying powered vs not powered.
Belt off
Powered - blades turning if belt was on - no noise, pulley turning
Not powered - blades stopped if belt on - noisy, pulley not turning
when not powered and I turn the pulley by hand, I hear the scraping noise and feel some resistance (turns relatively easily by hand).

If the belt pulley is not turning (power off) and the clutch makes a noise it is probably the bearing in the clutch. With the clutch powered on the bearing doesn't spin so no noise.
I would remove the clutch and check the bearing.

Hammermechanicman said:

If the belt pulley is not turning (power off) and the clutch makes a noise it is probably the bearing in the clutch. With the clutch powered on the bearing doesn't spin so no noise.
I would remove the clutch and check the bearing.

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Bearing failure has been my fear. My next fear is attempting to remove this thing. Is the bearing replaceable? I see that new clutches are rather expensive.

Most are not.

I'm baaack... The old clutch came off without any problem. It's an Ogura ma-gt-dx11cu. I see online prices from $300+ to $100+. Of course the lower prices are on Ebay. I've not had any problems (yet) ordering through Ebay, but ... If allowable on this forum, can anyone suggest a source somewhere between $300 and $100? I don't expect 17 years like the original, but more than one year would be good.

Have you looked on xtremeope.com?
They will run you around $200.

MParr said:

Have you looked on xtremeope.com?
They will run you around $200.

Contact Us | Xtreme Outdoor Power Equipment

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xtremeope.com

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Try around $317

OX Clutch has it for $250

The Ox Clutch replacement is available on Ebay for $162.95 with free shipping. I guess I'll go for that one. Too bad it has to come all the way from Eugene, OR. My grass and weeds in south Louisiana won't wait so I'll put the old one back on in the meantime.
Thanks folks.

LSU-Mike said:

The Ox Clutch replacement is available on Ebay for $162.95 with free shipping. I guess I'll go for that one. Too bad it has to come all the way from Eugene, OR. My grass and weeds in south Louisiana won't wait so I'll put the old one back on in the meantime.
Thanks folks.

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There you go using your head on searches. Yes I just quoted the retail on the OX and you can find dealers selling for less. That what procurement is all about; finding the best deal for the product you need.

That is like the CC fuel tank that neither of my distributors had in stock. I found it at Walmart for $10 more with free shipping which was actually $5-6 less than my overall cost at the distributors. On top of that they had it in stock.

After receiving the replacement Ox Clutch (03112-0038) the included installation instructions raise an issue. After reviewing the installation instructions, it appears that my Scag SFZ52 with 19 HP Kawasaki seems to match what Ox Clutch calls "short Crankshaft." The new clutch matches the old Ogura. The instructions call for a "D-Spacer" but there wasn't any when I removed the old clutch. The only time the clutch was removed in the past was when a repair shop replaced the lower shaft seal (about 2 years ago). Should I assume the shop neglected to replace the spacer? The Kawasaki has a 1" shaft and of course won't fit into the .8" pulley bearing. Without the spacer the Ox Clutch instructions state the clutch will fail. Would my old clutch have survived 2 years without the spacer?

I haven't called Ox Clutch yet, but their website doesn't show that they have such a spacer. The Scag parts diagram doesn't show the spacer. Can someone tell me where I can find one (if really needed)?
Thanks

Another thing that I consider is Amazon Prime free no questions asked returns.
Sometimes costs little more up front to get the option of a free MONEY BACK return guarantee.
You get the free return even if it's your fault that you did not get what you thought you wanted.

So what did the bolt tighten up against ?

Why should I return the new clutch when it appears to be exactly like the old one? That's why I'm thinking the repair shop left off the D-Spacer when they replaced the lower shaft seal.

The bolt has a lock washer and 1/4" thick spacer/washer that seats against the pulley bearing. When torqued down everything seems secure (with the old clutch). I guess it's possible that the clutch isn't as secure as it could/should be with the D-Spacer.

Some use the D spacer and some don't. Not sure of your application but this is what it looks like

Problem solved - I submitted an online Ox Clutch form asking about the d-spacer. A reply explained that my type of clutch (old and new) does not require the spacer because of its design. A link to an instructional video was provided that explains this. I suggested that their printed instructions should also explain the exception.
Thanks everyone for your input.

LSU-Mike said:

Problem solved - I submitted an online Ox Clutch form asking about the d-spacer. A reply explained that my type of clutch (old and new) does not require the spacer because of its design. A link to an instructional video was provided that explains this. I suggested that their printed instructions should also explain the exception.
Thanks everyone for your input.

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Good deal. The Scag parts diagram doesn’t show a spacer. There is just a 7/16” bolt, flat washer, and lock washer.

And to note not all D spacer are the same either which why Warner offers 11 different ones. And I there is at least 5 different wrench sizes needed.

And the chances of getting a wrench over the pulley and onto that D spacer is less than 0
I have ground out and down so many spannas then bent them to fit it is not funny but not a single one has even been used twice

bertsmobile1 said:

And the chances of getting a wrench over the pulley and onto that D spacer is less than 0
I have ground out and down so many spannas then bent them to fit it is not funny but not a single one has even been used twice

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It takes a special tool the hold these Double D spacers. I personally designed two tools and got my machinist to make them for me over two years ago. One note here Warner is developing their own tool to do this but I will pass on buying it since I already have my own tool.

I do however need to get at least one more made soon if I keep working JD ZTRs as my current version don't the Double D. Just requires resizing the current drawings dimensions.

All I got have is the tool plus a wrench; and the socket, extension, and torque wrench to torque the retaining screw.

I have a plethora of old Whitworth open enders that I never ever use
So they get opened out the right width then ground thin then heated & bent , usually with a sort of Z bend