Export thread

I've got an old MTD Yardmachines that is as old as dirt and twice as ugly, but she cuts the lawn so she'd good enough for me. However, I hooked her up to a jump start battery the other day to start her.and instead of starting up and running like normal, she started smoking.
The battery connection wire runs from the battery, to what I assume is a little solenoid that is key operated, then splits off to the starter, a red wire that turns black before going to the key switch, and an orange wire with a black stripe that I didn't trace. The red wire that turns black is the problem. It doesn't connect to the solenoid, but comes out of the same spot that the red battery wire goes into.
That little wire plumb fried. Insulation burned clean off, stuck to other wires, etc.

So I pulled that wire and replaced it, but now I have no spark. What I'd like to do is:
1. get the motor started regardless of what it takes. If I can figure out which wire goes to all the various kill switches I'd like to remove it altogether and see if my spark returns.
2. figure out what the burned up wire is. Is it a charging wire maybe? I don't know, but as of right now it still starts to get hot when I have the key in "run", not "Start". When it starts, the key and wires seem to operate normally (except for no spark).

I've got all the time in the world to fix my old girl so if anyone has any tips I'll do what's necessary to get her troubleshot and running again.

Pics:

Here's the little solenoid with the burned red/black wire




The only four wires that come off the engine. Is one of these the master wire to the various kill switches? (Clutch, reverse, seat, etc)




Engine model, it's a 14.5hp IC Quiet




One of the plugs above runs to the fuel bowl. That seems weird to me.





Thanks in advance!

The plug that runs to the carb bowl is the "Anti After fire valve" to prevent fuel from bring drawn into the cylinder after the key has been shutoff.
Most likely you have no spark because voltage got to the ignition coil and fried it, OR insulation was melted off the coil kill wire and it is now shorted to ground and causing the coil to not produce spark. Quick way to check is to unplug the kill wire from the coil and see if you've got spark. If you do with the wire unplugged the wire is shorted to ground or a key switch issue.
If you unplug the wire and still no spark , the coil is dead. BUT before you buy a new coil and put it on, you need to check to be sure there is no voltage on that kill wire. Any amount will fry the new coil.
The two sides that come from under neath the housing are most likely wires coming from the Stator (alternator).

Great thanks! So being specific, the kill wire is a wire from the coil to....the key switch? Is it the black wire coming from the coil? Can you see the kill wire in one of my pictures and say "Here's your kill wire right 'chere, boy. Now trace that down"?

You'll have to remove the red blower housing off the engine to unplug it from the coil.

The burned red wire looks to have been spliced into a black wire. If the wire smoked when you turned the key to engage the starter then the ground from the battery to the engine is bad.

Also post up the model number of the tractor, being an MTD it should be underneath the seat on a tag. if it's still there.And also the engine model number, should be stamped right above the spark plug into the blower housing.
Model and Type #'s

Thanks guys. I'll get the cover off today. The motor model is 287707. The tractor model is long gone, but it looks exactly like this one here just in blue color.

Well I got the cover off and one of the wires runs to the coil. Would that be the kill switch? I've also got a red and black wire that disappears underneath the um...spinny top of the engine..
New coil doesn't fit. Ordering another. Any other ideas?

Unplug the 1 wire that is going to the coil. Try to start. If it has spark with that wire unplugged. It is either shorted to ground or there is a problem with the key switch.

The wire that goes under the flywheel is most likely the Stator (alternator) wire.

the single wire going to the coil is the kill wire.. unplug it and see if it sparks up, if it does then you got either a short to ground with tht wire or your ignition switch fried as well..

I have that same exact mower, I use it about 4x's a year just to pickup the leaves in my yard. Minedid a similar thing and I fixed it by removing the kill wire from the coil and adding a newone that just goes to push button to connect it to ground..

mitchstein443 said:

the single wire going to the coil is the kill wire.. unplug it and see if it sparks up, if it does then you got either a short to ground with tht wire or your ignition switch fried as well..

I have that same exact mower, I use it about 4x's a year just to pickup the leaves in my yard. Minedid a similar thing and I fixed it by removing the kill wire from the coil and adding a newone that just goes to push button to connect it to ground..

Click to expand...

Thanks! For some reason I'm not getting email notifications when there are replies.

I pulled the kill switch wire and she's still not firing. I can't seem to find the right coil either. Ordered two off Amazon and both are about 1/4" too short. Look to be made by the same company, probably in "Jyna" somewhere by people that don't care about quality. If you have a coil part number or an idea on where to get one I'd sure appreciate it.

this is for that model, however, if you can, post the type number as well, that is the series of number after the 287707, to be sure of the correct part number

Scrubcadet10 said:

PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment

Parts lookup and repair parts diagrams for outdoor equipment like Toro mowers, Cub Cadet tractors, Husqvarna chainsaws, Echo trimmers, Briggs engines, etc.

www.partstree.com

this is for that model, however, if you can, post the type number as well, that is the series of number after the 287707, to be sure of the correct part number

Click to expand...

I can't read any label on the other numbers. Would it be "0224 01"?

Really no way for me to know, however i looked through the whole list the coil is the same P/N for all 287707. Models

Did you ever check for a blown fuse?

enigma-2 said:

Did you ever check for a blown fuse?

Click to expand...

There's no fuse on any wires I can see .

blown fuse wouldn't prevent it from creating spark.

Guys, who's awesome? You are.
I got spark! That was the right coil and I got it for 14 bucks on Amazon, haha!

However, there's now another problem. The fuel bowl cutoff thingy isn't letting gas go into the carb. Is there a way to troubleshoot it?

They get varnish build up and become sticky.
Most times you can work some carb cleaner into the plunger hole then flush the gunk out by manually pushing & pulling the plunger
Test the plug, it should read battery voltage with the key in the on or start position.
They are very expensive to replace .

Do what Bert said, if it still doesn't work afterwards, snip off the metal rod flush with the top of the solenoid threads. the engine will run fine with out it.

Great to hear it has spark.

I would armorize that wiring harness. Looks like a lot of wire rubbing going on. Get some Scotch Super 88 electrical tape. Cleanly wrap the wires after repairing. Get some black plastic loom to cover the harness. Tape that all up again. Use cable restraints to anchor the harness to the mower. Solder and heat shrink away.

slomo

That was it. I unscrewed the carb plug, poked it in and out several times, and put it back in. Boom, full fuel and she fired right up again. Another Lawnmowerforum success!
Thanks a lot guys. I'm putting him back together today and I will definitely run the wires back through the cable guards and re-tape them up. I don't want to have another electrical issue - ever!

My grass is about 18" tall. I can't wait to get him flying down the turf again.

StumpyOrson said:

That was it. I unscrewed the carb plug, poked it in and out several times, and put it back in. Boom, full fuel and she fired right up again. Another Lawnmowerforum success!
Thanks a lot guys. I'm putting him back together today and I will definitely run the wires back through the cable guards and re-tape them up. I don't want to have another electrical issue - ever!

My grass is about 18" tall. I can't wait to get him flying down the turf again.

Click to expand...

Jack the deck all the way up on the initial cut.

You know, I bet there was more to this story..... Like someone forgot to put gas in the tank? LOL Hey I've done it by leaving the gas off.

slomo

slomo said:

Jack the deck all the way up on the initial cut.

You know, I bet there was more to this story..... Like someone forgot to put gas in the tank? LOL Hey I've done it by leaving the gas off.

slomo

Click to expand...

Haha! I haven't done that since the first month I got it. I couldn't believe how thirsty this thing was and expected to get two mows out of a tank. Think again, Orson!
That little plunger was sticky so my guess is that varnish was the problem. Sitting too long while i tried to figure out what happened. I run straight gas, no ethanol.

yah the fuel bowl cutoff... here's what Ido with them....

remove the solenoid from the bowl, cut the plunger off.. reinstall the solenoid and replace gasket if it tore coming off. cut the 12v wire connector and tape it off... it will never stop the flow of gas again.. However, when storing the tractor for a long time and if it does not have a fuel pump (gravity fed fuel line) crimp off the fuel line so the gas in the carb does not evaporate and get replaced and keeps evaporating and getting replaced which will quickly build up that gunky mess and ruin the carb...

Or install a fuel shut-off valve inline to the carb.

slomo

StumpyOrson said:

That was it. I unscrewed the carb plug, poked it in and out several times, and put it back in. Boom, full fuel and she fired right up again. Another Lawnmowerforum success!
Thanks a lot guys. I'm putting him back together today and I will definitely run the wires back through the cable guards and re-tape them up. I don't want to have another electrical issue - ever!

My grass is about 18" tall. I can't wait to get him flying down the turf again.

Click to expand...

Post up a video of the tall grass slaying please. Love those HOA slash Sheriff notice over-grown yards on youtube.

slomo

slomo said:

Post up a video of the tall grass slaying please. Love those HOA slash Sheriff notice over-grown yards on youtube.

slomo

Click to expand...

That would have been neat, but I've been using a push mower. 21" lawnboy. Talk about overworked, I could write a book titled "from here to eternity" after a day pushing that thing in the sun

StumpyOrson said:

That would have been neat, but I've been using a push mower. 21" lawnboy. Talk about overworked, I could write a book titled "from here to eternity" after a day pushing that thing in the sun

Click to expand...

A pusher still gives you satisfaction of having the cleanest, best looking cut of all mowers. Especially over a 0-turn that ruts the turf severely.

slomo

slomo said:

A pusher still gives you satisfaction of having the cleanest, best looking cut of all mowers. Especially over a 0-turn that ruts the turf severely.

slomo

Click to expand...

Yeah, but mowing the back forty with a pusher will make an old man out of you pretty quick.

StumpyOrson said:

Yeah, but mowing the back forty with a pusher will make an old man out of you pretty quick.

Click to expand...

Riding around makes you fat and older. Pushing offers exercise and makes your body stronger.

slomo

I have a crap ton of arthritis in all my joints. A herniated disk. Double knee replacement. Feel free to come push mow my 4.5 acres anytime you want a stronger body. Too late for me. I have worn mine out.