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Aftermarket coils
#1
Ronno6
Ronno6
Is there a down side to using aftermarket coils in a B&S engine??
They cost way less, but do you give anything up in performance or longevity?
They cost way less, but do you give anything up in performance or longevity?
#2
T
Txbiker
T
Txbiker
If they are china made you give up a lot. They might work fine for a little while in the beginning but degrade sooner and faster than a factory briggs. I've found over the years racing karts with predator motors and LO206 briggs motors that the Chinese parts aren't even close to the quality and tolerance of briggs. My 206 is on it's second year and runs as good as the day I bought it and it's never been in to just oil changes. The predator bought and built at the same time has gone through 5 coils in two seasons not to mention 2 carbs 18 sets of valve springs 4 rocker arms and 2 sets of push rods.
#3
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Talking about "Chinese coils" is a touch racist as if everything made in China is garbage and they do not have the ability to make anything properly.
FWIW last year China had more successful satelite launches than the USA and they now have the 2nd largest number of them in orbit.
You see what American companies ask for & buy CHEAP, CHEAPER & CHEAPER STILL . and they we want it 10% less than last year.
Nothing wrong with Chinese coils made by a reputable company with good quality control.
Problem is working out who sells good & who sells cheap.
Then there is what happens to the ones that Briggs, Kohler, Honda reject as being below standard.
In the USA they go to scrap metal merchants after being broken beyond being able to be fitted.
In China they go to salvage merchants who on sell to trading companies who on sell to USA evilbay / Amazon / craigs list vendors.
You buy a 10 coil that does not work, you blame yourself for being cheap then go to the mower shop & buy another x 300,000,000 people who will do the same.
How do you tell a good product ?
It will be branded at best or just have a serial number on it at worst.
As a home user, I would encourage you to buy from a reputable aftermarket supplier , Oregon, Prime Line, Rotary , Stens etc etc where the coil has a guarantee.
FWIW last year China had more successful satelite launches than the USA and they now have the 2nd largest number of them in orbit.
You see what American companies ask for & buy CHEAP, CHEAPER & CHEAPER STILL . and they we want it 10% less than last year.
Nothing wrong with Chinese coils made by a reputable company with good quality control.
Problem is working out who sells good & who sells cheap.
Then there is what happens to the ones that Briggs, Kohler, Honda reject as being below standard.
In the USA they go to scrap metal merchants after being broken beyond being able to be fitted.
In China they go to salvage merchants who on sell to trading companies who on sell to USA evilbay / Amazon / craigs list vendors.
You buy a 10 coil that does not work, you blame yourself for being cheap then go to the mower shop & buy another x 300,000,000 people who will do the same.
How do you tell a good product ?
It will be branded at best or just have a serial number on it at worst.
As a home user, I would encourage you to buy from a reputable aftermarket supplier , Oregon, Prime Line, Rotary , Stens etc etc where the coil has a guarantee.
#4
EngineMan
EngineMan
I don't see a problem in using them, you can buy top end and still have bad ones...!
#5
T
Txbiker
Seriously dude Racist??????? Why does it have to be a race thing with you liberals all of the time???? Go to any kart track and ask any racer/mechanic and you will get facts. I've been running chonda motors for years (Chinese Honda clone to you) and the fact remains the motor as a whole is inferior to Honda (Japanese to you) which they 1:1 copied and LO206 briggs. Facts not race related next time you want to state your opinion just put it out there instead of being insulting in your opening line. If you suffer from white guilt or any other conjured up liberal syndrome keep that crap to yourself no one cares.
T
Txbiker
Talking about "Chinese coils" is a touch racist as if everything made in China is garbage and they do not have the ability to make anything properly.
FWIW last year China had more successful satelite launches than the USA and they now have the 2nd largest number of them in orbit.
You see what American companies ask for & buy CHEAP, CHEAPER & CHEAPER STILL . and they we want it 10% less than last year.
Nothing wrong with Chinese coils made by a reputable company with good quality control.
Problem is working out who sells good & who sells cheap.
Then there is what happens to the ones that Briggs, Kohler, Honda reject as being below standard.
In the USA they go to scrap metal merchants after being broken beyond being able to be fitted.
In China they go to salvage merchants who on sell to trading companies who on sell to USA evilbay / Amazon / craigs list vendors.
You buy a 10 coil that does not work, you blame yourself for being cheap then go to the mower shop & buy another x 300,000,000 people who will do the same.
How do you tell a good product ?
It will be branded at best or just have a serial number on it at worst.
As a home user, I would encourage you to buy from a reputable aftermarket supplier , Oregon, Prime Line, Rotary , Stens etc etc where the coil has a guarantee.
Seriously dude Racist??????? Why does it have to be a race thing with you liberals all of the time???? Go to any kart track and ask any racer/mechanic and you will get facts. I've been running chonda motors for years (Chinese Honda clone to you) and the fact remains the motor as a whole is inferior to Honda (Japanese to you) which they 1:1 copied and LO206 briggs. Facts not race related next time you want to state your opinion just put it out there instead of being insulting in your opening line. If you suffer from white guilt or any other conjured up liberal syndrome keep that crap to yourself no one cares.
#6
Ronno6
Ronno6
Geez....I did not intent to start a political war here......
Stens and Oregon coils were nearly the B&S price. That oughta say somethin'........
I purchased 2 B&S new take offs at a decent price, just because........
Stens and Oregon coils were nearly the B&S price. That oughta say somethin'........
I purchased 2 B&S new take offs at a decent price, just because........
#7
T
Tinkerer200
T
Tinkerer200
Fact is that B&S coils and CDI Units are very reliable. Everything is subject to occasional failure of course. In over 65 years working with small engines I have never bought a new coil for a B&S engine. In the rare occasion I find one which is actually bad, I go to the salvage shelf and put on a used one. I suggest you do the same - checking a small shop, large ones do not want to fool with used stuff. Many coils and spark plugs get replaced, blamed, because that is the first thing thought of
Walt Conner
Walt Conner
#8
B
bertsmobile1
Actually I am a touch on the left of center if you were to put me any where.
I buy coils from a factory in China all the time without problems. They are branded by the OEM because they make a quality product that they warrant .
There is more than 1 factory in China
So asking "what are Chinese coils like " is just as stupid as asking "what are American made cars like "
Or What are American mowers like
The inference is that they are all the same ( because roo all hook same to me ) because they are not like us.
As for the Chonda engines I see you & your mates are happy enough to buy & use them.
Sort of like people complaining about all the crime then buying cheap stolen goods from a car boot out the back of a bar.
Briggs have 2 factories in China, Honda have 8 factories in China, Stihl have 3 factories in China , Kohler have just opened their 2nd factory in China, Husqvarna have 2 factories in China.
All of these factories buy in things like coils from other factories in China and they do not seem to have problems.
Toro now fit Loncin motors to most of their smaller mowers to make the price cheap enough for cheapskate Americans to buy them.
And Loncin motors are , funny enough made in China.
The fact is the CHONDA motors are inferiour to genuine Honda motors deliberately because they cost 1/4 the price of a real Honda which you are too cheap to buy.
Quality cost money , if people will not pay for quality then they get junk if junk is all they are willing to pay for.
Then some patriotic flag waving business man will happily import them at $ 50 a unit sell then to you at $ 200 a unit and laugh all the way to the bank.
I do not suffer "white guilt" in any way shape or form.
I import top shelf high quality parts form China & India which I use to repair equipment for people too cheap to fit genuine parts.
Not a single part I have imported has ever given me the slightest bit of trouble because I shop for quality , not the absolute cheapest possible price anywhere in the world.
Being trained in engineering sciences I know that you only ever get what you pay for and precision costs money, quality control costs money.
B
bertsmobile1
Seriously dude Racist??????? Why does it have to be a race thing with you liberals all of the time???? Go to any kart track and ask any racer/mechanic and you will get facts. I've been running chonda motors for years (Chinese Honda clone to you) and the fact remains the motor as a whole is inferior to Honda (Japanese to you) which they 1:1 copied and LO206 briggs. Facts not race related next time you want to state your opinion just put it out there instead of being insulting in your opening line. If you suffer from white guilt or any other conjured up liberal syndrome keep that crap to yourself no one cares.
Actually I am a touch on the left of center if you were to put me any where.
I buy coils from a factory in China all the time without problems. They are branded by the OEM because they make a quality product that they warrant .
There is more than 1 factory in China
So asking "what are Chinese coils like " is just as stupid as asking "what are American made cars like "
Or What are American mowers like
The inference is that they are all the same ( because roo all hook same to me ) because they are not like us.
As for the Chonda engines I see you & your mates are happy enough to buy & use them.
Sort of like people complaining about all the crime then buying cheap stolen goods from a car boot out the back of a bar.
Briggs have 2 factories in China, Honda have 8 factories in China, Stihl have 3 factories in China , Kohler have just opened their 2nd factory in China, Husqvarna have 2 factories in China.
All of these factories buy in things like coils from other factories in China and they do not seem to have problems.
Toro now fit Loncin motors to most of their smaller mowers to make the price cheap enough for cheapskate Americans to buy them.
And Loncin motors are , funny enough made in China.
The fact is the CHONDA motors are inferiour to genuine Honda motors deliberately because they cost 1/4 the price of a real Honda which you are too cheap to buy.
Quality cost money , if people will not pay for quality then they get junk if junk is all they are willing to pay for.
Then some patriotic flag waving business man will happily import them at $ 50 a unit sell then to you at $ 200 a unit and laugh all the way to the bank.
I do not suffer "white guilt" in any way shape or form.
I import top shelf high quality parts form China & India which I use to repair equipment for people too cheap to fit genuine parts.
Not a single part I have imported has ever given me the slightest bit of trouble because I shop for quality , not the absolute cheapest possible price anywhere in the world.
Being trained in engineering sciences I know that you only ever get what you pay for and precision costs money, quality control costs money.
#9
B
bertsmobile1
Too true Walt .
Nearly every coil that I have needed to replace was because of owner neglect or ignorance.
Can not believe how many have owners filcked a battery across them to see if they are working and then there are the rednecks who just have to bypass all safety switches and end up sending starting voltage down the kill wire.
The Mower racers do seen to go through a few, don't bother diagnosing them cause they just ring to see if I have one that will fit because they are in the next heat & they have no spark so it MUST be the coil.
I keep a lot of coils in stock where as all the local mower shops do not carry any.
Briggs won't allow me to have a trade account so I have made the effort to find quality makers in China , not the cheapest so I can make the greatest profit.
Last year I shifted around 40 or so and of that only about 4 or 5 went into customers mowers the rest went into racers or karts.
B
bertsmobile1
Fact is that B&S coils and CDI Units are very reliable. Everything is subject to occasional failure of course. In over 65 years working with small engines I have never bought a new coil for a B&S engine. In the rare occasion I find one which is actually bad, I go to the salvage shelf and put on a used one. I suggest you do the same - checking a small shop, large ones do not want to fool with used stuff. Many coils and spark plugs get replaced, blamed, because that is the first thing thought of
Walt Conner
Too true Walt .
Nearly every coil that I have needed to replace was because of owner neglect or ignorance.
Can not believe how many have owners filcked a battery across them to see if they are working and then there are the rednecks who just have to bypass all safety switches and end up sending starting voltage down the kill wire.
The Mower racers do seen to go through a few, don't bother diagnosing them cause they just ring to see if I have one that will fit because they are in the next heat & they have no spark so it MUST be the coil.
I keep a lot of coils in stock where as all the local mower shops do not carry any.
Briggs won't allow me to have a trade account so I have made the effort to find quality makers in China , not the cheapest so I can make the greatest profit.
Last year I shifted around 40 or so and of that only about 4 or 5 went into customers mowers the rest went into racers or karts.
#10
Ronno6
Ronno6
Can a coil be intermittent?
I cleaned off the magnet and inductance ears of the coil and it is working again.
Should I trust it?
The mower had occasionally dropped a cylinder but it always came back on line quickly til this episode.
I used to have a mower that would not restart when it was hot. I had thought that to be a coil problem.
I cleaned off the magnet and inductance ears of the coil and it is working again.
Should I trust it?
The mower had occasionally dropped a cylinder but it always came back on line quickly til this episode.
I used to have a mower that would not restart when it was hot. I had thought that to be a coil problem.
#11
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Yes
It is electric so you can get a broken wire that touches some of the time.
Inside the Module is a small Hall effect chip which replaces the points and these are very amperage sensative some cheap multimeters can actually fry them.
You can et corrosion on the kill wire and a bad ground through the mounting bolts which is what needs to be cleaned
The rest does not matter.
It is electric so you can get a broken wire that touches some of the time.
Inside the Module is a small Hall effect chip which replaces the points and these are very amperage sensative some cheap multimeters can actually fry them.
You can et corrosion on the kill wire and a bad ground through the mounting bolts which is what needs to be cleaned
The rest does not matter.
#12
Ronno6
Ronno6
Gotcha.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#13
T
Tinkerer200
T
Tinkerer200
I have often found that the act of removing and re-installing a coil makes it work because the mounting areas actually was what needed cleaning to make a proper ground. The little bit of rust or whatever you cleaned from areas you mention has no affect on magnetic flux. Clean mounting areas bright clean.
Walt Conner.
Walt Conner.
#14
Ronno6
Ronno6
Will do.
Thanx.........
Thanx.........
#15
Ronno6
Ronno6
On the advice of council,after cleaning all contact points, I have reinstalled and gapped the offending coil.
As it is currently making spark, I will run it til it gives me cause to replace.
We'll see how that goes.........
As it is currently making spark, I will run it til it gives me cause to replace.
We'll see how that goes.........
#16
Ronno6
Ronno6
Well, after cleaning all points of contact and re-installing the suspect coil, the motor
ran fine until yesterday. One cylinder dropped out while mowing, but came back a short time later.
So, it worked perfectly-til it didn't.
Then, it didn't-til it did.
Sounds kinds like the makings of some sort of nursery rhyme...
I purchased 2 B&S modules, so I guess the time is nigh to install them..........
ran fine until yesterday. One cylinder dropped out while mowing, but came back a short time later.
So, it worked perfectly-til it didn't.
Then, it didn't-til it did.
Sounds kinds like the makings of some sort of nursery rhyme...
I purchased 2 B&S modules, so I guess the time is nigh to install them..........
#17
Boobala
Boobala
HEY GUYS !!
Remember .. Politics is forbidden on THIS SITE !!
Politics is dividing this country , take it elswhere ...PLEASE !
Remember .. Politics is forbidden on THIS SITE !!
Politics is dividing this country , take it elswhere ...PLEASE !
#18
T
Tinkerer200
T
Tinkerer200
The very first thing you should do when asking a question is post the make and model number of your engine so we have some idea what we are talking about. Now it appears you may be talking about a twin cylinder B&S engine in which case I suspect it is the "Kill Wire" harness which is causing the problem. IF you did post the model number and I overlooked it, I apologize. Disconnect the Kill Wire from both coils and see what happens IF you have the problem again and I think you will.
Walt Conner
Walt Conner
#19
Ronno6
Thanks, Walt,
Engine: 446777-0316-E1 - Briggs & Stratton V-Twin
Mower: MTD 14AR808K731 - Huskee Garden Tractor (2004)
My rudimentary understanding of electricity tells me that, if the kill wire to one coil is grounding out,that both coils would shut down.
That should be true unless the engine has kill wires that are independent and isolated for each coil.
Am I incorrect?
Ronno6
The very first thing you should do when asking a question is post the make and model number of your engine so we have some idea what we are talking about. Now it appears you may be talking about a twin cylinder B&S engine in which case I suspect it is the "Kill Wire" harness which is causing the problem. IF you did post the model number and I overlooked it, I apologize. Disconnect the Kill Wire from both coils and see what happens IF you have the problem again and I think you will.
Walt Conner
Thanks, Walt,
Engine: 446777-0316-E1 - Briggs & Stratton V-Twin
Mower: MTD 14AR808K731 - Huskee Garden Tractor (2004)
My rudimentary understanding of electricity tells me that, if the kill wire to one coil is grounding out,that both coils would shut down.
That should be true unless the engine has kill wires that are independent and isolated for each coil.
Am I incorrect?
#20
Mike88se
I bought a new B&S coil for the Timemaster a few weeks back. Made in China
Mike88se
Is there a down side to using aftermarket coils in a B&S engine??
They cost way less, but do you give anything up in performance or longevity?
I bought a new B&S coil for the Timemaster a few weeks back. Made in China
#21
T
Tinkerer200
Ever hear of diodes? I don't think you understand the B&S twin Kill Wire system.
Walt Conner
T
Tinkerer200
Thanks, Walt,
Engine: 446777-0316-E1 - Briggs & Stratton V-Twin
Mower: MTD 14AR808K731 - Huskee Garden Tractor (2004)
My rudimentary understanding of electricity tells me that, if the kill wire to one coil is grounding out,that both coils would shut down.
That should be true unless the engine has kill wires that are independent and isolated for each coil.
Am I incorrect?
Ever hear of diodes? I don't think you understand the B&S twin Kill Wire system.
Walt Conner
#22
Ronno6
Yes,I have.
Apparently you are correct.
Please elaborate...........
Ronno6
Ever hear of diodes? I don't think you understand the B&S twin Kill Wire system.
Walt Conner
Yes,I have.
Apparently you are correct.
Please elaborate...........
#23
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Did you install the new coils yet ??Well, after cleaning all points of contact and re-installing the suspect coil, the motor
ran fine until yesterday. One cylinder dropped out while mowing, but came back a short time later.
So, it worked perfectly-til it didn't.
Then, it didn't-til it did.
Sounds kinds like the makings of some sort of nursery rhyme...
I purchased 2 B&S modules, so I guess the time is nigh to install them..........
#24
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Ronno............ I am awaiting your answer on the coils, but I will say a couple things about a diode.
1st.... If a diode is bad then it's bad. No intermediate on that.
2nd.... Have you ever hooked a car stereo up backwards and saw a puff of smoke ??? If you did you blew the protective diode that keeps the radio from being totality fried. 2 things could happen with that diode, it is open like blown fuse would and when you try to hook the radio back up again the right way it won't light up or work..... Or the diode shorted and it will still smoke when you try to hook it back up the right way again.
I had a two way communications repair and sales shop in the late 80's and most of the 90's.... I have replaced more of those diodes than I can count on a calculator LOL. Cheap too, 2 to 3 cents apiece and a total bill bill of 15 to 25 bux for the parts and labor............. Depended on if I had to fix a tracer or change fried wires going to the plug in for 12 volts....
1st.... If a diode is bad then it's bad. No intermediate on that.
2nd.... Have you ever hooked a car stereo up backwards and saw a puff of smoke ??? If you did you blew the protective diode that keeps the radio from being totality fried. 2 things could happen with that diode, it is open like blown fuse would and when you try to hook the radio back up again the right way it won't light up or work..... Or the diode shorted and it will still smoke when you try to hook it back up the right way again.
I had a two way communications repair and sales shop in the late 80's and most of the 90's.... I have replaced more of those diodes than I can count on a calculator LOL. Cheap too, 2 to 3 cents apiece and a total bill bill of 15 to 25 bux for the parts and labor............. Depended on if I had to fix a tracer or change fried wires going to the plug in for 12 volts....
#25
Ronno6
Ahh, the P-N junction.....the building block that is the very basis of all things solid state..........
No, I have not as of yet installed the new modules.
It may be relevant at this point to relay that, during the one period of apparent coil failure
that was of sufficient endurance that I could see that there was no spark on the #1 cylinder,
I disconnected the kill wire from the #1 coil, and there was still no spark.
After removing the coil, cleaning the contact points of the coil armature and re-installing the coil,
there was again spark.
Hence I did not suspect the kill wire circuit.
Unless, there is a coincidence going on here..............
p.s. I am typically in bed by 10................
Ronno6
Did you install the new coils yet ??
Ahh, the P-N junction.....the building block that is the very basis of all things solid state..........
No, I have not as of yet installed the new modules.
It may be relevant at this point to relay that, during the one period of apparent coil failure
that was of sufficient endurance that I could see that there was no spark on the #1 cylinder,
I disconnected the kill wire from the #1 coil, and there was still no spark.
After removing the coil, cleaning the contact points of the coil armature and re-installing the coil,
there was again spark.
Hence I did not suspect the kill wire circuit.
Unless, there is a coincidence going on here..............
p.s. I am typically in bed by 10................
#26
Ronno6
Ronno6
This diagram shows the 2 diodes in the kill wire circuit:
https://www.vanguardengines.com/con...s/Files/FAQs/ignition_wiring_6_pin_ms5301.pdf
So, in essence, the 2 coil kill wires ARE isolated in the reverse direction....
Shorting one kill wire to the block between the diode and the coil will kill only that coil.
It is interesting to note that I have yet to see these diodes in any electrical schematics.
https://www.vanguardengines.com/con...s/Files/FAQs/ignition_wiring_6_pin_ms5301.pdf
So, in essence, the 2 coil kill wires ARE isolated in the reverse direction....
Shorting one kill wire to the block between the diode and the coil will kill only that coil.
It is interesting to note that I have yet to see these diodes in any electrical schematics.
#27
T
Tinkerer200
While you may be an expert with car stereos, I can assure you the small engine forums are full of mysterious symptoms caused by the B&S twin kill wire system, several times as many as by the coil. OP did not originally furnish the information that he had disconnected the kill wire from dead cylinder coil. Note that he may have solved his problem by following my first advice.
Walt Conner
T
Tinkerer200
Ronno............ I am awaiting your answer on the coils, but I will say a couple things about a diode.
1st.... If a diode is bad then it's bad. No intermediate on that.
2nd.... Have you ever hooked a car stereo up backwards and saw a puff of smoke ??? If you did you blew the protective diode that keeps the radio from being totality fried. 2 things could happen with that diode, it is open like blown fuse would and when you try to hook the radio back up again the right way it won't light up or work..... Or the diode shorted and it will still smoke when you try to hook it back up the right way again.
I had a two way communications repair and sales shop in the late 80's and most of the 90's.... I have replaced more of those diodes than I can count on a calculator LOL. Cheap too, 2 to 3 cents apiece and a total bill bill of 15 to 25 bux for the parts and labor............. Depended on if I had to fix a tracer or change fried wires going to the plug in for 12 volts....
While you may be an expert with car stereos, I can assure you the small engine forums are full of mysterious symptoms caused by the B&S twin kill wire system, several times as many as by the coil. OP did not originally furnish the information that he had disconnected the kill wire from dead cylinder coil. Note that he may have solved his problem by following my first advice.
Walt Conner
#28
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Tinker I was not telling him how to fix his problem because of a diode. He wan't to know about how a diode worked.
By the way he fixed his problem. It was a bad coil so he got 2 new ones to put on there.
By the way he fixed his problem. It was a bad coil so he got 2 new ones to put on there.
#29
T
Tinkerer200
The post where he says he installed the new coils is missing from the thread I get.
Walt Conner
T
Tinkerer200
Tinker I was not telling him how to fix his problem because of a diode. He wan't to know about how a diode worked.
By the way he fixed his problem. It was a bad coil so he got 2 new ones to put on there.
The post where he says he installed the new coils is missing from the thread I get.
Walt Conner
#30
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
We talked off of the forum. Too much typing for the conversation we had.....
#31
Ronno6
Geez, Walt-I followed ALL of your suggestions!
Your first suggestion, in post #7, was to obtain used OEM coils. I did that (off ebay, as there are no small repair shops in my small town for used parts)
Your second suggestion in post #13 was to remove the coil, clean the mounting contact points and re-install. I did as you suggested, and that seems to have restored the spark, even if just temporarily (as it turns out)
Your third suggestion in post #i8 was to post model # of the engine. I did that. You also suggested disconnecting the kill wire. I followed this suggestion in advance. (Maybe I have some troubleshooting sense??)
Your post #21 contained no suggestion nor advice. Rather than share your knowledge, you planted the seed for learning, then watered it in with urine.
Your final suggestion in post #27 is that I should have followed your first suggestion,which I previously had done.
So, what is the cause for your criticism ??
My original question was the quality of aftermarket coils.
Period.
After receiving definitive opinions in each direction, I opted for OEM.
Someday I will learn to attempt to keep my threads from wandering off topic.
All the rest has been for naught, as, though somewhat entertaining, and sometimes insulting, the net result is that I have swapped out the coils with used OEM parts and all is good.
Thru this thread I have learned a little about mowers, and a lot about people.
Thanks to all that have contributed.
Ronno6
While Note that he may have solved his problem by following my first advice.
Walt Conner
Geez, Walt-I followed ALL of your suggestions!
Your first suggestion, in post #7, was to obtain used OEM coils. I did that (off ebay, as there are no small repair shops in my small town for used parts)
Your second suggestion in post #13 was to remove the coil, clean the mounting contact points and re-install. I did as you suggested, and that seems to have restored the spark, even if just temporarily (as it turns out)
Your third suggestion in post #i8 was to post model # of the engine. I did that. You also suggested disconnecting the kill wire. I followed this suggestion in advance. (Maybe I have some troubleshooting sense??)
Your post #21 contained no suggestion nor advice. Rather than share your knowledge, you planted the seed for learning, then watered it in with urine.
Your final suggestion in post #27 is that I should have followed your first suggestion,which I previously had done.
So, what is the cause for your criticism ??
My original question was the quality of aftermarket coils.
Period.
After receiving definitive opinions in each direction, I opted for OEM.
Someday I will learn to attempt to keep my threads from wandering off topic.
All the rest has been for naught, as, though somewhat entertaining, and sometimes insulting, the net result is that I have swapped out the coils with used OEM parts and all is good.
Thru this thread I have learned a little about mowers, and a lot about people.
Thanks to all that have contributed.