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It is Queens Birthday weekend here and the likes of Repco and Supercheap have good prices on motor oil.
Both my Hondas are powered with older GXV120 as are my project motors waiting in the wings.
I have always had older motor vehicles too and when they had a few miles on the clock, ring and bearing wear etc, I would use a heavier oil.
My question is this; what weight oils do you use in your older mowers, especially Honda?
I have a preference for Penrite and this is due to my experience when I owned a Evo 1340. Where other oils showed a lack of viscosity at temperature after a long run, say Auckland to Kaitaia when the oil light would flicker at idle, when I changed to Penrite this no lomger happened and the oil still had viscosity (using the slip test with fingers).
Honda advise 10/30 weight. Penrite has a 10/30 small engine oil but would it be sensible to use their 30 weight or their 15/40 Vantage?
https://www.repco.co.nz/en/brands/penrite/penrite-vantage-15w-40-6l/p/A1262663

Penrite oils
http://www.penriteoil.co.nz/tech_pdfs_new/April2013/Small Engine_April2013.pdf

You should always run mower oil in mowers.

Heavy oil is no substitute for new rings and rings are cheap.

Honda use 10 w oil to make them easier to start, particularly when cold
I put strait 30 in Honda mowers down here, 10w30 in pumps & generators and 10w40 in hand helds.

The heat characterics of a governed engine are a lot different to a motorcycle.
You cant run one way faster than it can cool as you can on a bike

Thanks Bert. The 4 running Hondas all blow white smoke for a very short moment on start-up only. Otherwise they a clean runners.
Temperatures down here dont reach much above 28-30C on average, with lows of Winter in 10-20C.
Is 30W suitable at those temperatures?
Penrite have a range from 10/30, 20/50, 30. The 30 and 20/50 are both full zinc.
Zinc is a good thing, right?

I'd stick with 10W30 or switch to 10 weight as bertsmobile1 states if you're willing to give up something at start-up. Beyond that, I wouldn't change viscosity unless the situation warranted it.

slow_runner said:

Thanks Bert. The 4 running Hondas all blow white smoke for a very short moment on start-up only. Otherwise they a clean runners.
Temperatures down here dont reach much above 28-30C on average, with lows of Winter in 10-20C.
Is 30W suitable at those temperatures?
Penrite have a range from 10/30, 20/50, 30. The 30 and 20/50 are both full zinc.
Zinc is a good thing, right?

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SAE 10 weight oil is fine at temperatures from 10-30C and even a little beyond. I'm not certain what you mean by "full zinc". Zinc has been a common additive in motor oil for 50 years primarily because of its anti-wear ability by enhancing lubrication and because it's a cost effective way of doing so. In addition, zinc reduces oxidation. However, "zinc" in this regard really refers to compounds created with zinc, primarily ZDDP or ZDTP.

" full zinc" is highlighted in the Penrite bulletin Tony - page 7 http://www.penriteoil.co.nz/tech_pdf..._April2013.pdf

I have read where it has been said that the zinc component is reduced/replaced in a number of modern oils, so I guess that Penrite are maybe marketing the difference?

slow_runner said:

Thanks Bert. The 4 running Hondas all blow white smoke for a very short moment on start-up only. Otherwise they a clean runners.
Temperatures down here dont reach much above 28-30C on average, with lows of Winter in 10-20C.
Is 30W suitable at those temperatures?
Penrite have a range from 10/30, 20/50, 30. The 30 and 20/50 are both full zinc.
Zinc is a good thing, right?

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Yes it tends to be a little cooler is the Shakey Isles than it does here in Sinny on the Mainland.
And yes I do run Penrite in my old motorcycle but not in lawnmowers unless it is a lawnmower oil.
lawnmowers get used very infrequently and then usually for short periods so the entire package used in mower oils is substantially different in mower oils than it is in motorcycle oils which are again different to car oils.
Zinc is mainly there for anti scuffing on cams and to protect bronze bushes.
It is an extreme load lubricant and not really needed in a mower oil but a good idea in your bike.
Mower oils contain a lot more corrosion inhibitors and stabilizers than any other oil apart from fork & hydraulic oils.

If the mower blows a little white smoke at start up then either it is getting too hot or the valve stem oil seal on the inlet valve is on the way out or the valve itself has a bit of stem wear.
10W30 will suit you quite fine in mowers & snow ploughs.
Or plain 30 in the mower , which will make it a little harder to pull start when cold .

Well said Bert.
Penrite 10/30 looks to fit the bill and the local outlet stocks it.
I will be getting some tomorrow as it is pi**ing down here at the moment and has been doing so all day:frown:

Wanna send some of it over here ?

My vintage & worked hard Honda FG 100 Mini-tiller I use 30w, no problems.

1/2 pull on the rope & it's idling away. I didn't get an online repair manual till after I had done a lot of work on it including a engine flush & some fresh 30w oil.
Book says 10w-30 but I'm not gonna do that. It's very happy on the 30w imo.

bertsmobile1 said:

Wanna send some of it over here ?

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Surely that is coals to Newcastle Bert?

PENRITE SMALL ENGINE 10W-30 Viscosity: 10W-30
Base Oil: Semi Synthetic
Application: Four Stroke Small Engine
10W-30 is a non-friction modified engine oil for use in modern small air and water-cooled engines.
Best suited for four stroke mowers, small stationery engines and other gardening equipment including motorcycles with a wet clutch.
Key Specifications: API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B

7394 said:

My vintage & worked hard Honda FG 100 Mini-tiller I use 30w, no problems.
1/2 pull on the rope & it's idling away. I didn't get an online repair manual till after I had done a lot of work on it including a engine flush & some fresh 30w oil. Book says 10w-30 but I'm not gonna do that. It's very happy on the 30w imo.

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Is that bog standard 30W 7394 or oil specific to mowers?

bertsmobile1 said:

If the mower blows a little white smoke at start up then either it is getting too hot or the valve stem oil seal on the inlet valve is on the way out or the valve itself has a bit of stem wear.
10W30 will suit you quite fine in mowers & snow ploughs.
Or plain 30 in the mower , which will make it a little harder to pull start when cold .

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All mowers are very clean, without any build up or obstruction from grass and dirt. Too hot from incorrect air/fuel ratio or timing??
I will look into that stem seal / clearance advice Bert.
I imagine that doing the seal in situ is a bit easier than on the Falcon? Which is the last time and a long time ago when I had repowered a Ford Transit with a 200 Falcon.

slow_runner said:

Surely that is coals to Newcastle Bert?

PENRITE SMALL ENGINE 10W-30 Viscosity: 10W-30
Base Oil: Semi Synthetic
Application: Four Stroke Small Engine
10W-30 is a non-friction modified engine oil for use in modern small air and water-cooled engines.
Best suited for four stroke mowers, small stationery engines and other gardening equipment including motorcycles with a wet clutch.
Key Specifications: API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B

View attachment 38222

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The rain, not the oil.
Just ben drought declaired here.

bertsmobile1 said:

The rain, not the oil.
Just ben drought declaired here.

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Ha ha, slow-thinking too.
There was a hell of a deluge for some time this arvo. We are Ok here as it is very free draining and not part of any historical natural waterway.
A mate over Botany way had plenty and this link shows the volume of water that coursed through the area. The high tides weren't helpful either.
https://www.stuff.co.nz/auckland/10...luge-of-rain-with-more-thunderstorms-possible

Have you a water reserve to ride out the drought Bert?

I have town water at both the work shop & home.
landlord just sold the last of the cows, Got a rubbish price for them.
Funny ow when they get $ 2 or better a kg then butchers put up the meat price but when they are getting $ 1.20 the price never seems to drop.
There is 100,000 litres of water in tanks for the alpacas & olive trees, both dams have bee dry since Feb

bertsmobile1 said:

I have town water at both the work shop & home. landlord just sold the last of the cows, Got a rubbish price for them.
Funny ow when they get $ 2 or better a kg then butchers put up the meat price but when they are getting $ 1.20 the price never seems to drop.
There is 100,000 litres of water in tanks for the alpacas & olive trees, both dams have bee dry since Feb

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Yes, it's odd logic is that. It would be great to be able to get a salary or wage increase using the same rational that is wheeled out whenever consumer items prices rise; "our costs have increased."
is 100,000 litres a good buffer Bert or will you need to cull the herd?
How do you water the olive trees, underground irrigation?
I have 80mm PVC pipe upstands for our home garden. It is no where near the same type or scale but I think it would work anywhere. Surface irrigation creates shallow rooting and evaporation rates are high. This method was copied from my Step Fathers example up in the Far North where it gets damn hot, high 30s into the 40s at times.

I am stripping down a Victa that was Honda powered and is painted with hammerglaze paint that is flaking everywhere. No etch prime to be sen at all - rubbish.
I began lifting the worst of the lifting paint with a blade. Then i did some digging and came this bit of advice from the Practical Machinist Forum, courtesy of Forrest Addy who knows his way around.
" Depeding on size, I strip painted articles in tightly covered coffee cans, 5 gallon pails, 55 gal plastic drums with a little cheap lacquer thinner or "Homer Fromby's Firniture Resinisher". It helps if the temp is elevated to 80 degrees or so if the finish is resistant. I use heat lamps.
Let it fume overnight. When you open the container have some chisels made of hardwood handy to push off the swollen paint. A few applications, some work with a tooth brush, and the aluminum will be bare as before it was originally painted and in an un-abraded condition.
Needless to say, work in a well ventillated space away from ignition sources.
Why paint a bike frame? The aluminum won't rust and the paint adds weight. Besides the object of a good bike is to ride it faster and furhter then the next guy. Paint doesn't make it go. Seems to me that fancy paint is getting into decorator territory, matching the drapes to the rug, not a passtime for manly men. "

The Victa deck is in a lidded and sealed drum with 1/2 a bean can of "Kum Klean" which is 85% Xylene. I will leave it for a couple of days and check the results (with caution). Fingers crossed.

It will have to be painted or it will corrode badly .
Use POR 15 undercoat and you will never have to repaint it again.

No animals so the water will be fine if worst comes to worst they can be watered with town waster but that costs $ 15 every time so it can get very expensive very quickly.
Not my tress, or cattle thay are the landlords,

bertsmobile1 said:

It will have to be painted or it will corrode badly .
Use POR 15 undercoat and you will never have to repaint it again.
No animals so the water will be fine if worst comes to worst they can be watered with town waster but that costs $ 15 every time so it can get very expensive very quickly. Not my tress, or cattle thay are the landlords,

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There is evidence of corrosion where the factory paint has lifted. Funnily enough, the paint on the other Victa (same deck shape) is holding up well except for the odd bit of wear' it is dark green. Maybe Victa got cheap with this hammer type paint and it does look the cats when new.
Although I see that hammerite is promoted as not needing any base coat.
I have P10 etch prime here, it is the local equivalent of PA10 and works well. My hot rodding mate uses the POR15 I'll look into it.
POR15 as the etch primer and any top coat or does it require a specific paint system? Better still if it can it be used as a stand alone.

slow_runner said:

Is that bog standard 30W 7394 or oil specific to mowers?

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It is mower oil.

slow_runner said:

There is evidence of corrosion where the factory paint has lifted. Funnily enough, the paint on the other Victa (same deck shape) is holding up well except for the odd bit of wear' it is dark green. Maybe Victa got cheap with this hammer type paint and it does look the cats when new.
Although I see that hammerite is promoted as not needing any base coat.
I have P10 etch prime here, it is the local equivalent of PA10 and works well. My hot rodding mate uses the POR15 I'll look into it.
POR15 as the etch primer and any top coat or does it require a specific paint system? Better still if it can it be used as a stand alone.

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Any top coat.
POR 15 is a furane resin and reacts with both water and carbon dioxide so is as tough as nails.
However it is not UV stable so needs a top coat.
Any top coat will do.

I use only Royal Purple for all my Hondas. 30 wt in spring Summer and 10w 30 in the fall.winter. Also I have never had a engine problem.
It is easy to see the oul on the stick because of color. And it is Synthetic.