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I went out to start my mower for the 1st time this season, and the tractor never actually starts. When I turn the key, it will spin 1 or 2 revolutions, then stops.

If I take the spark plug off, then it will turn (but of course not start). If I put the plugs back on, it does back to 1 or 2 turns, then engine stops trying to crank.

It has been inside a garage all winter, so it shouldn't have taken on water. But what I am finding is suggesting that it may be compression issues? Is there a fix to try? Time to see if it's covered by warranty (tractor is 1 year old)? Any help is appreciated.

first thing the guys here will ask for is engine model number

NorthBama said:

first thing the guys here will ask for is engine model number

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Ah, thanks. It's Husqvarna model YTH22V46 with the Briggs & Stratton Intek 22HP engine.

I don't see the model number listed or etched anywhere, but there is a QR Code on the side. When I scan that, it takes me to model 44N677-0005-G1 Briggs & Stratton Intek V-Twin.

Try the basics first.
Is the battery fully charged?

Russ2251 said:

Try the basics first.
Is the battery fully charged?

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Yea, battery is reading 12.1v on my meter, and fresh gas and oil. When I took the plugs out to confirm it would spin without the plugs, the looked fine. I also removed gas lines and replaced, to confirm there weren't any clogs ... gas was flowing fine through the lines.

May be worth noting, it has never started on the first couple cranks. It usually takes it 5-10 minutes or petting on it and loving it to get it working. Today's saga began just exactly like that, with me giving it 10-15 minute breaks between working with it for 5-10 minutes. After about round 3, that is when it started doing the 1 or 2 spins, then coming to a complete halt.

12.1 volts is actually low and not enough to start most mowers. It should be in the 12.5 to 13 volt range. There are six 2.2 volt cells in a 12 volt battery.

I recommend charging or replacing the battery.

Battery is weak, before we even start....

Ah. I knew it should be at 12.5 or so, but thought anything over 12 was enough to turn it over? It's stickered March 2018, but I'm guessing the battery from the factory doesn't have as long of a life as you could expect from a new battery off the shelf?

I haven't charged it before, so I will give that a shot tomorrow. If not, then I will replace the air filter and pick up a new battery.

Looking and see Everstart has one that matches everything in there (12v, 230 cca) for $20 at walmart, or lowes has a 12v 300cca for $45. I'll pick up one of those are report back ... hopefully with good news. :laughing:

Charge the battery overnight
In the mean time pull both the rocker covers off and check the valve lash.
Should be around 0.004"
If it is larger than 0.010 the ACR gets defeated and the starters on these engines do not have the balls to overcome full compression so it cranks till TDC on the stronger cylinder then hangs.

Sorry to step on your toes burt, but along with all of that he might want to check his choke for starting purposes if you could walk him through it. It seems as if that is getting to be a problem with a lot of box store new mowers.

dfbroxy said:

Sorry to step on your toes burt, but along with all of that he might want to check his choke for starting purposes if you could walk him through it. It seems as if that is getting to be a problem with a lot of box store new mowers.

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Go back and read the very first post.
The owner has 2 problems
From the first post, the engine cranks fine plugs out but won't crank plugs in.
Only a couple of reasons for this
1) no ACR because valves too loose
2) excessive compression because exhaust valves are not opening
A bad choke will not cause the engine to stall during cranking.
A mal functioning choke will allow the engine to crank but not fire up & start.



Now in post 5 he reveals the mower has always been hard to start which could be a bad choke or a clogged carb or valve lash
Note valve lash is common to both problems
So lets get the engine spinning first.

Once that is happening w can address the hard starting.

bertsmobile1 said:

Go back and read the very first post.
The owner has 2 problems
From the first post, the engine cranks fine plugs out but won't crank plugs in.
Only a couple of reasons for this
1) no ACR because valves too loose
2) excessive compression because exhaust valves are not opening
A bad choke will not cause the engine to stall during cranking.
A mal functioning choke will allow the engine to crank but not fire up & start.



Now in post 5 he reveals the mower has always been hard to start which could be a bad choke or a clogged carb or valve lash
Note valve lash is common to both problems
So lets get the engine spinning first.

Once that is happening w can address the hard starting.

Click to expand...

Not disagreeing at all but he's got a low battery too...

Hey, I didn't get to mess with it yesterday, but did today.

I tried to use my car battery to jump it. It would turn and try to start like normal, but didn't get going. As soon as I unhooked it from my car, back to the 1 turn and then radio silence.

So, I decided to jump over to Wal-Mart and get their $20 battery. Hooked it up, and it was turning no problem, but still not starting.

I had checked the fuel line coming directly out of the filter previously, so I decided to check the lines further down. I removed them, and again had the flow I was expecting, but I draining about a cup of gas out of it, then put the lines back in place and gave the key a couple good 15-second cranks and it fired up, then died instantly. A couple more good cranks, and she was purring and idling.

The only thing I can think of is that some old gas remained in the lines all winter, even though I ran it until it died last season? Maybe it was gummed up in there, and I had drained the battery trying to start it previously, and draining that line got it out? In any case, fires up no problem, now.