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Adjusting Brakes on Cub Cadet LTX 1040

#1

S

Stonz

Does anyone know how to do this? Plus, is there a way to tell if they CAN be adjusted, or need to be replaced? I would way rather try it myself instead of hauling mower in for repairs. Never tried to do it myself, but would like to at least try. Any feedback would be appreciated. Best if any instructions were in lamens terms, so there is no confusion on my end lol. Just starting to tinker with this thing myself.... Thank you to anyone that replies, and I will post updates if/when I get results.:wink:


#2

Boobala

Boobala

Stonz said:
Does anyone know how to do this? Plus, is there a way to tell if they CAN be adjusted, or need to be replaced? I would way rather try it myself instead of hauling mower in for repairs. Never tried to do it myself, but would like to at least try. Any feedback would be appreciated. Best if any instructions were in lamens terms, so there is no confusion on my end lol. Just starting to tinker with this thing myself.... Thank you to anyone that replies, and I will post updates if/when I get results.:wink:
Click to expand...

It would be most helpful if you would post your MODEL numbers, ... see example

ID 5.PNG (click to enlarge) ...... LTX 1040 is your SERIES of mower


#3

B

bertsmobile1

The lord helps those who help themselves.
Cub owners can help themselves by going to the Cub web site and down loaing both the parts book and the service manual for their mowers.
Even better it is free.

And yes they can be adjusted
It is one bolt, tighter for stronger and looser for weaker
Just remember that the clutch is on the same pedal so if the brakes grab before the belt loosens enough to slip you will destroy the belt.

The brake has 2 small brake pads which are replaceable but usually they are a transaxle part and not a mower part so you will need to get the numbers off your tranny as well


#4

EngineMan

EngineMan

This should help you.

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#5

S

Stonz

Boobala - I will try to remember that.

Bertsmobile1 - While I appreciate the response, you should know I basically ran across this forum by accident and was happy I did, hence the pretty straight-forward post I made. Obviously I'm not as mechanically inclined as some people, and I made that clear by stating I was just starting to tinker with this thing. My issue just popped up very recently and just haven't been to the CC site and downloaded the info from there yet. I was just checking here to see if there was a simple answer/generic way to do it.

EngineMan - Thank you, sir! That was extremely helpful and JUST the kind of info I was looking for (instead of sarcasm lol). This is exactly why I asked here, because I knew a good brother would be happy to share their info on it with me. Much appreciated! I will look into this fix once the weather here clears enough to do so.


#6

B

bertsmobile1

I appreciate your situation.
Every now & then I try to slip in some humour, some times it works & some times it don't
A little jest is always better than a plain RTFM.
There is only one brake on a mower, that is all there is to stop you or stop it running way when your back is turned.
Very few people have the presence of mind when chasing run away mower to reach across and turn the key off, or grab the wheel the steer it up hill .
They attempt to mount the moving mower, usually end up putting their foot on the deck which gives way cause it is floating then they fall backwards and get run over or fall foreward and smack themselves hard on the wheel, seat, levers etc.
Either case is not pretty, lost a customer who ended up loosing a leg doing exactly that.

The single section of the manual that Engine man posted dose not cover readjusting the clutch nor give any detail as to why the brake might need to be adjusted,
In 5 years as a mower mechnaic the only brakes I have adjusted all needed backing off or just dissasembly and cleaning, they very rarely wear out because you can not drive with one foot on the brake and the other on the throttle.
The section that was presented to you also makes no mention of belt damage.
There was also no parts breakdown.

All this is in the manual and should be read & understood before some one with no experience starts to fiddle with the brake.
It is a simple device but very easy to get totally wrong.

Lastly you did not mention why you wanted to adjust the brake.
Nearly every time I have been asked to adjust the brake it was not the brake that needed adjusting, it was the clutch.
While the 0.010" is a good starting point to avoid whiplash whenever you release the the clutch /brake pedal many times the brake needs to be set differently to avoid the clutch & brake fighting against each other.


#7

S

Stonz

It's all good, bert, lol. I was hoping there would be a quick, simple fix for it, but apparently not.

I have maybe 10% brakes left at this point, mower is probably 10 years old or so, and a couple of years ago when I brought the mower in for maintenance at the local CC shop (called 4x4 Country) I asked them to replace the brakes (not knowing they can be adjusted) and they did NOT replace them, they adjusted them. Actually I don't even think they charged me for it either, why I was thinking to myself that it couldn't be that hard.

As for the sarcasm/humor, not a problem to me brother lol. I'm a pretty sarcastic guy myself (for humors sake) but me being the new guy I just didn't know the intention. Now I do! :)

Keep it coming! lol


#8

EngineMan

EngineMan

bertsmobile1 said:
I appreciate your situation.
Every now & then I try to slip in some humour, some times it works & some times it don't
A little jest is always better than a plain RTFM.
There is only one brake on a mower, that is all there is to stop you or stop it running way when your back is turned.
Very few people have the presence of mind when chasing run away mower to reach across and turn the key off, or grab the wheel the steer it up hill .
They attempt to mount the moving mower, usually end up putting their foot on the deck which gives way cause it is floating then they fall backwards and get run over or fall foreward and smack themselves hard on the wheel, seat, levers etc.
Either case is not pretty, lost a customer who ended up loosing a leg doing exactly that.

The single section of the manual that Engine man posted dose not cover readjusting the clutch nor give any detail as to why the brake might need to be adjusted,
In 5 years as a mower mechnaic the only brakes I have adjusted all needed backing off or just dissasembly and cleaning, they very rarely wear out because you can not drive with one foot on the brake and the other on the throttle.
The section that was presented to you also makes no mention of belt damage.
There was also no parts breakdown.

All this is in the manual and should be read & understood before some one with no experience starts to fiddle with the brake.
It is a simple device but very easy to get totally wrong.

Lastly you did not mention why you wanted to adjust the brake.
Nearly every time I have been asked to adjust the brake it was not the brake that needed adjusting, it was the clutch.
While the 0.010" is a good starting point to avoid whiplash whenever you release the the clutch /brake pedal many times the brake needs to be set differently to avoid the clutch & brake fighting against each other.
Click to expand...

He did not ask anything about readjustment for the clutch, and why should I give or ask him any details to why the brake need to be adjusted when that wasn't the question in the post, it again wasn't what he ask for was it..?, that would like posting something like...."here is the info you need to readjust the brake, and by the way thought you may like to know the tyre pressure's".... pointless....! have you got some kind of axe to grind.

I am sure if he needs anymore help on anything, he would surely come back here and ask for it.


#9

B

bertsmobile1

Only grinding I do is on chains & bars. :laughing:
However as you should know there is more to adjusting the brakes than just slipping a feeler gauge between the puck & rotor.
So he still needs to download & read the manual.
People reading this post in 2 years time will also know that they may also need to adjust the clutch after adjusting the brakes .

Most of the brake adjustments I have been asked to do was because of severity of operation, not because they did not work.
And in nearly all of them it was the clutch that needed adjusting, not the brake.
Then again the bulk of my customers are retirees , widows or pensioners so they are a bit sensitive to jerky movements.


#10

EngineMan

EngineMan

bertsmobile1 said:
Only grinding I do is on chains & bars. :laughing:
However as you should know there is more to adjusting the brakes than just slipping a feeler gauge between the puck & rotor.
So he still needs to download & read the manual.
People reading this post in 2 years time will also know that they may also need to adjust the clutch after adjusting the brakes .

Most of the brake adjustments I have been asked to do was because of severity of operation, not because they did not work.
And in nearly all of them it was the clutch that needed adjusting, not the brake.
Then again the bulk of my customers are retirees , widows or pensioners so they are a bit sensitive to jerky movements.
Click to expand...

Of cause you are right, there always more...! but do remember "us" that's you and I plus the good working class members here are here to help them and to help (others), we are not all here to fight between how self's, we can give them what we may feel is good advice, but what they're all do with it in the end, is up to them. I always try and tell them.....do it right if you can, and if you can't give it to someone who can.

also remember people when you are reading this post in two years that the wording "you may have to" and " you need to" are different.


#11

S

Stonz

Well thank you both for the info! I'll play around with it this weekend when I am off work.


#12

S

Stonz

Just to let you both know, I drove next door to the body shop, and showed my buddy Todd the picture that EngineMan posted...... after about 2 minutes and 2 minor adjustments (a half turn, test.... then another half turn) the brakes work like a brand new mower. Just want to say thanks again to ya'll for the tips and info. I'm good to go here in North Carolina now!


#13

EngineMan

EngineMan

That's great thanks for the feedback.:thumbsup:


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