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Hello

I'm hoping that someone here will be able to help me identify the type of tool that is needed to remove this flywheel. Recently I found myself in the position to acquire a Jacobsen power burst snow blower. I believe it to be manufactured around the early 80s, but there is a engine number if it is needed. Yes, I know it is older but sometimes I like older/classic stuff, and needed something to learn more about small engines anyways. Hopefully I won稚 sound too dumb... considering I have worked on car engines for quite a long time.

anyways I'm not sure if I am just looking at this in the wrong way, however I cannot seem to figure out what tool is needed to pull this flywheel. It appears the flywheel has no screw holes for a bolt type of puller, and there is not enough space between the flywheel and the case/block for a jaw type puller. So I thought perhaps maybe a knock off type remover was needed, but on closer inspection there appears to be a small center holding clip around the crankshaft, as if there needs to be some type of tool that would press the flywheel down slightly in order to remove the small clip. But I'm not actually for sure what tool that would be or if my observation on how to remove it is correct. Unfortunately, the only thing that keeps popping into my head is a steering will lock plate compressor. Which I know is absolutely incorrect. :laughing:

I have linked some photographs of the flywheel, hopefully you will be able to see the small center clip that I am referring to that is around the crankshaft that I believe is what is preventing the flywheel from coming off. But it may be that I'm just not thinking in the right logical approach, so hopefully the photos will provide more information about what type of puller is needed or approach.

Any help or ideals would be much appreciated.



Thank you for your time, help or ideals.


sorry about the extremely large pic's, but I'm usually thinking a long the lines of......" if you can see it then you might be stumbling in the dark for a answer."

It's actually very easy. The manual for those type of Jake engines say to use a special nut on the end of the crankshaft. Since Jacobsen's special nut isn't readily available, I've used a coupling nut myself. The purpose is to protect the threads and to spread force across as much of the threaded area as possible. Cup your hand around one side of the flywheel and pull outward on the flywheel. Then rap the end of the nut you threaded onto the crankshaft with a hammer or mallet. I doubted it when I first read it, but surprisingly, the flywheel I removed came off after just a few raps with the hammer.

If the hammer doesn't work. It looks like its marked to drill and tap to me.

its a tapered shaft,i give em a good tap with a rubber mallet.on the fins,not too hard tho.tap, wiggle tap ,wiggle..

tybilly said:

its a tapered shaft,i give em a good tap with a rubber mallet.on the fins,not too hard tho.tap, wiggle tap ,wiggle..

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Sound like a good way to break off some fins. The problem I am seeing wiggle and tap becomes a hit. Now a hit becomes damage. I have found on older engine that the aluminum becomes bridle and sticks to the steel shaft. No nothing wrong in giving the hammer a try but be very light handed. Before making a wiggle and a tap into a hit, drill and tap the holes and use a puller. I have drilled and taped non threaded flywheel puller holes to use my puller and have never had a problem doing so. The very biggest percentage of flywheels I pull I do so with a puller. damage cost money and if a small hammer doesn't work get a bigger one.:thumbsup:

Here's the pages from one of their manuals that covers removal of the flywheel. It is a 1966 manual, but the basic engine design has remained the same on Jake 2 strokes like yours.

Don't use a puller, and don't try to tap that thing out. You'll be looking for another flywheel. Believe me, I've used this method on different Jake engines from the 40s, 50's and 60s, and it works surprisingly easy.

View attachment Jacobsen 1966 Manual Pages 1-25_15_16.pdf

bwdbrn1 said:

Here's the pages from one of their manuals that covers removal of the flywheel. It is a 1966 manual, but the basic engine design has remained the same on Jake 2 strokes like yours.

Don't use a puller, and don't try to tap that thing out. You'll be looking for another flywheel. Believe me, I've used this method on different Jake engines from the 40s, 50's and 60s, and it works surprisingly easy.

View attachment 19529

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Just that I shy away from the hammer removal seeing damage done. Threads peened over on the crank shaft , broken fins. Yes by all means I say try it your way I don't' say not to but just be careful doing so. Just why will he be looking for a flywheel if he taps it out for a puller? Is this a weak point? Must be a reason you are saying this? I have never as far as I know removed a Jacobsen flywheel but have removed many flywheels on different engines and never damage one yet with a puller.

It ain't my way, it's Jacobsen's way, right out of their service manual. Kind of hard to argue with it, especially for me since I tried other ways with Jakes before finally finding the manual and using the way they recommended.

You protect the threads with the knock out nut over the end of the crankshaft. Since I couldn't locate a Jacobsen knock out nut, I used a coupling nut to spread the force over a greater area. You don't hit the threads, you hit the nut, and you don't have to hit it like you're going to drive it half way across the state, just a rap will do. Don't pry on it for the very reason you said a couple of posts ago, aluminum gets brittle and will stick to steel. You run the risk of breaking the flywheel.

bwdbrn1 said:

It ain't my way, it's Jacobsen's way, right out of their service manual. Kind of hard to argue with it, especially for me since I tried other ways with Jakes before finally finding the manual and using the way they recommended.

You protect the threads with the knock out nut over the end of the crankshaft. Since I couldn't locate a Jacobsen knock out nut, I used a coupling nut to spread the force over a greater area. You don't hit the threads, you hit the nut, and you don't have to hit it like you're going to drive it half way across the state, just a rap will do. Don't pry on it for the very reason you said a couple of posts ago, aluminum gets brittle and will stick to steel. You run the risk of breaking the flywheel.

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i use a 3 jaw puller tighten it down so its snug and give it a tap with a hammer works for me

bwdbrn1 said:

It ain't my way, it's Jacobsen's way, right out of their service manual. Kind of hard to argue with it, especially for me since I tried other ways with Jakes before finally finding the manual and using the way they recommended.

You protect the threads with the knock out nut over the end of the crankshaft. Since I couldn't locate a Jacobsen knock out nut, I used a coupling nut to spread the force over a greater area. You don't hit the threads, you hit the nut, and you don't have to hit it like you're going to drive it half way across the state, just a rap will do. Don't pry on it for the very reason you said a couple of posts ago, aluminum gets brittle and will stick to steel. You run the risk of breaking the flywheel.

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I am not trying to argue with the service manual. If it works do it, that's fine. Not that big of a deal as I see it, a tap and a wiggle and its in your hand job done. Just because it is in the service manual I have found sometimes doesn't always work., Ok You said the puller would damage the flywheel. But you never told me why?? Did you use a puller on one once and damage a flywheel and just what did you damage? Is that part of the flywheel paper thin and it comes apart? You said he would need a new flywheel if he used a puller. Most small engine flywheels fit on a tapered shaft but not all. Not too long ago I took a flywheel off a snowmobile that bolted to a flange.

Fortunately no, I haven't broken any, but in hind sight and from what I've been told by an experienced Jake mechanic, I consider myself lucky that I haven't. I suppose I could have mentioned the advise I'd gotten from the mechanic earlier. Like you said in an earlier post, it looks like it could be tapped and threaded, and I did do just that with the first one of mine I did. I got it off, but can say first hand looking back that it was much more of a struggle to do than the method outlined in the manual, and through conversations with that Jake mechanic on another forum, (Smokstak) I was told that I had been very lucky I hadn't broken anything and also told by him not to pry on them. Like snowy weather noted, there is very little gap between the flywheel and the block, additionally, that "flange", for lack of a better name right now,around the outside of the flywheel is fairly thin and has a lip on it. That flange would be much easier to break than the flywheel.

A coupler nut , like what they sell for all-threads would be great, but I never can find them in fine thread. I do have three Tecumseh knockers that fit most of these older
engines. You have the pages out of the manual how to do it, I would however, go to a good hardware store and find a nut of the same size with a flange on it, so you can thread it fully on the shaft, not all the way down, and rap on a socket on the nut while holding the flywheel.

I went to pull a tecumseh flywheel with a puller once took 2turns before the thing crumbled haha I don't recommend a jaw puller doesn't look like you can use a flywheel puller here without drilling those spots out. If it were me I would see about using a few pieces of flat steel and 2 hydrolic bottle jacks lift it from under the flywheel and carefully tap the engine down with some pb blaster

DON'T drill it!! Those "spots" are or balancing. If you drill it,you cold hit the coils if they are internal. Some were,and some were outside. Use a knocker,and tap it smartly,while holding the flywheel.

exotion said:

I went to pull a tecumseh flywheel with a puller once took 2turns before the thing crumbled haha I don't recommend a jaw puller doesn't look like you can use a flywheel puller here without drilling those spots out. If it were me I would see about using a few pieces of flat steel and 2 hydrolic bottle jacks lift it from under the flywheel and carefully tap the engine down with some pb blaster

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u dont put 300 pounds of pressure on it lol

briggs said:

u dont put 300 pounds of pressure on it lol

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Well ya this was a few years ago. Who knew aluminum can be so brittle now like I said I usually lift the machine by the flywheel and tap the flywheel bolt a few times usually loosens it up enough to work it off. Unless they have puller holes than you simple bolt the puller into the holes and use a impact drill to pull her off

tybilly said:

its a tapered shaft,i give em a good tap with a rubber mallet.on the fins,not too hard tho.tap, wiggle tap ,wiggle..

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lawnboy service manual says to do it this way,i added the tap tap wiggle wiggle,lol:laughing:

It doesn't need a hard hit,from any type of hammer,to crack the flywheel on a JACOBSEN.
They haven't been made since 1983.
Parts are nearly impossible to get(depending on the part),so err on the side of caution,and follow the manual !

jhngardner367 said:

It doesn't need a hard hit,from any type of hammer,to crack the flywheel on a JACOBSEN.
They haven't been made since 1983.
Parts are nearly impossible to get(depending on the part),so err on the side of caution,and follow the manual !

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very good advice!!!

Good job gentlemen,:thumbsup:

your advice worked like a charm :smile:....I stop by a hardware store purchased a couple of fine thread couplers and a small pvc/rubber mallet. I'm not sure why I thought I saw a clip on the end of crank?:confused3: (some times I do over complicate things) But all it took was to tightened the coupler down a little on the end of the crank, then.... tap the coupler, wiggle flywheel, tap, wiggle, repeat a few and off it came, with no clip as you can see from pic,...hmmm go figure, maybe I need another eye exam. :laughing:


Thank you all for advice.

Hey,Snowy_weather,
Here's a bit of info,that might help get you some parts.
The Homelite and JohnDeere 320/320E units are the same as the Jacobsen 320/320E.
In the '70s/'80s,Jacobsen made these units for Homelite and JD.
So,you may be able to find parts through JD. It's a long shot,since they weren't made after 1983,but you never know.

I can never find fine thread couplers around here...

Good job!!!

Fish said:

I can never find fine thread couplers around here...

Good job!!!

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same here :confused2:

briggs said:

same here :confused2:

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Try a little heat on the aluminum flywheel. The aluminum will heat and expand enough to fall off the steel shaft. I use this method and it works great. Not to much heat as you do not want to damage anything under the flywheel.

Dave9354 said:

Try a little heat on the aluminum flywheel. The aluminum will heat and expand enough to fall off the steel shaft. I use this method and it works great. Not to much heat as you do not want to damage anything under the flywheel.

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I don't recommend this. Aluminum is very sensitive to heat and will easily crack, melt, or bend there are plenty of alternative methods to heat. And heat should be used as a last resort.

exotion said:

I don't recommend this. Aluminum is very sensitive to heat and will easily crack, melt, or bend there are plenty of alternative methods to heat. And heat should be used as a last resort.

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I agree... never use heat on any flywheel....

bwdbrn1 said:

It ain't my way, it's Jacobsen's way, right out of their service manual. Kind of hard to argue with it, especially for me since I tried other ways with Jakes before finally finding the manual and using the way they recommended.

You protect the threads with the knock out nut over the end of the crankshaft. Since I couldn't locate a Jacobsen knock out nut, I used a coupling nut to spread the force over a greater area. You don't hit the threads, you hit the nut, and you don't have to hit it like you're going to drive it half way across the state, just a rap will do. Don't pry on it for the very reason you said a couple of posts ago, aluminum gets brittle and will stick to steel. You run the risk of breaking the flywheel.

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I have a 21" Jacobson push mower with a 2 cycle engine and the flywheel looks like the one in the 1966 Jacobson manual excerpt you posted. Any chance you could post the rest of the manual, it looks very useful.