Right rear wheel will not come off. I've tried everything I know. The left rear wheel came off easily.....does the right side come off a different way? I'm stumped.
That is what happens when the mower is not maintained properly and he wheels do not come off every now & then for greasing the axels.
It has rusted solid onto the axel
If you have access to an oxy set or an induction heater then you heat the wheel hub red hot then tap it off .
This requires repainting the wheel
I use a pair of scissor jacks between the wheel & the body
The axel has 1/8" to 1/4 " movement in & out so the jacks just take up this movement plus put a SMALL amount of pull on the wheel
Then I use an air hammer / chisel on the axel while pushing very hard so the point is always hard against the axel. a bit of heat and a lot of penetrating fluid.
When the wheel moves a little then it is steel wool the clean the axel , penetrant , tap the wheel back on and repeat as necessary, tightening the jacks as the come loose and drop down
Some wheels have taken more than a full day to shift
Do not use excessive force pulling the wheel out as it will come out, complete with the axel as it is only held in with a snap ring or E clip and then it is a major repair to split the box , find the broken parts and close it back again.
#3
StarTech
If there is any in and out movement of the rim on the axle I would try some 2 cycle fuel mix on the axle with the mower tilted up so it can soak in. Usually they are stuck on with rust and dirt. Or you can use some homemade penetrating fluid.
Also since these uses a large e-clip to hold on the wheel the groove can sometimes get flared and need filing back to normal diameter.
As bertsmobil 1 says, that is what happens when neglected.
Some owners manuals finally started suggesting removing the rear rims about every 2 years and cleaning and applying grease to the axle.
Do not hammer on the back side of the rim or you can ruin the tranxaxle.
Not a fun job and patience required.
Couple hints as to what I've done.
I have a T-bar type puller and I drill couple holes on each side of the rim for long 3/8's bolts and apply pressure to the axle, like a large steering wheel puller but about 8 inches long across. HF sells them for about $40. Mine is a OTC.
Keep a heads up and do not bulge the outer end of the axle with the center puller push bolt. I sometimes have to drill a small divit in the center of the outer axle end to keep the puller bolt centered as it's snugged down tight.
Then I sometimes have to heat the back side of the rim with a torch.
I also have used black plastic pipe (about 1 1/4 inch size x 6 inches long and heated the end of the plastic with a heat gun for a slip fit over the center bulge of the rim, seal it with sho-goo, let dry 24 hours then slip a 90 over the end of the plastic pipe and fill with 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone or a good penetrating oil and let it set for about a week. If out side I cover the top of the 90 with clear plastic cup and I can monitor the ATF level and also keeps water out.
Every once in awhile I have to sacrifice the rim by cutting out the center and using a puller on the remaining using a bearing puller.
Afterwards clean the rusty axle good and apply anti-seize.
If removing to change the tire just cut the old tire off and leave rim in place if the bead cannot be un seated.
Safety notice: Let the air out of the tire BEFORE applying heat to the rim, to keep the tire from exploding.
