90's MTD mower front wheel bearings

RevB said:
And you know this...how? You watching the inner race as the machine is moving? On the ground? If it makes you feel better grease the shaft but that would just let the inner race be more likely to overcome friction. Or leave it dry.
Click to expand...
The first pic on the first page shows the wear witness marks.
 
jes_in_sac said:
If the shaft is worn excessively, you could build it up with JB Weld, then sand it down for a tight fit, but it doesn't look that worn. To hold the inner race in place, and be able to easily remove the wheel, you need side compression on the inner race, either with springs washers or a heavy spring. Threading the end of the axle then using a nut to hold the inner race firmly would be the best, but not the easiest. You could also try a pin [or a weld spot] in the axle wheel stop plate or the axle, then notch the inner race with a small grinder to that protrusion so that it's indexed into place.
Click to expand...
Thanks, as mentioned in recent post, the problem is lack of a ferrule between the bearing inners so that a nut could tighten the whole show.
Gord Baker said:
There is NO PROBLEM. It was designed that way. Many had Bushings. Just Drive it.
Click to expand...
The design is poor and there was an easy fix.
Things are getting heated. Apologies for posting. Thought there may have been some interest in converting a still serviceable unit into a mobile sprayer. Will post update pics when available but until then I have no more to say. Sorry about the replies I did not get to. Thanks to all responders.
 
slomo said:
Are you lacking a wheel locking nut? Snapper pushers use a one time use locking nut on all their wheels.
Click to expand...
Engine is out and will be cleaned (was not real dirty). Muffler is like new.
Axles use split pins and spacer washers.
Without the internal ferrule (tube spacer) external pressure cannot be applied to both inners by any method.


As before, wheels are golng on "as is". I am over it.
Pics to follow.
 
Last edited:
For such a low speed application, grease is more than enough to make this last. Even if the bearing or bushings are spinning on the axle shaft. These are not like car or truck hubs. Front ends of mowers support way less weight than the rears. Low stress environment.

On the Snapper rear engine rider fronts, I forgot buy there might be a bushing sleeve deal that has a grease zerk. Wheel simply slides on maybe with a cotter pin?? Those if greased once a decade will last 5 more decades.
 
slomo said:
For such a low speed application, grease is more than enough to make this last. Even if the bearing or bushings are spinning on the axle shaft. These are not like car or truck hubs. Front ends of mowers support way less weight than the rears. Low stress environment.

On the Snapper rear engine rider fronts, I forgot buy there might be a bushing sleeve deal that has a grease zerk. Wheel simply slides on maybe with a cotter pin?? Those if greased once a decade will last 5 more decades.
Click to expand...
As before:
"Engine is out and will be cleaned (was not real dirty [or fins clogged]). Muffler is like new."
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top