89 John Deere 285 hydro bypass won't work

[Homer1]

I have owned this mower for a while, and known well this is an issue, but i've never investigated.

Anyone know why the neutral switch that dis-engages the hydro drive wouldn't work when moved. It seems like it has no resistance at all, it just moves, but never hits Neutral.

Not a huge issue, but it is if it dies and needs to be pushed. Any breakdowns or how-to's welcome!

Thanks guys, Mow on.

 

[BlazNT]

I'm not sure what you are asking. Hydro's have a bypass valve not a neutral. When you pull the bypass valve it opens a valve that allows oil to bypass and allows freer wheel movement. Make sure the parking break is released or it will not move. Neutral as you call it is when the drive valves are in between forward and reverse. This position does not allow easy movement of the tractor at all but it can move but really hard. In your case it is when you don't have the forward or reverse pedals pushed. So what part are you asking about?
Picture of where the bypass rod is located.

 

[Homer1]

Yeah, that's different than mine. This is an older first gen hydro drive setup, with the movement control on your right side in the form of a ball/stick that you pretty much have to drive with your hand on all the time. There is a "Spring assist" for implement lift and movement in the location of the pic you listed, this must be a newer design.

I am having a hard time finding a diagram of the switch in question, and I don't have or cant find a picture of the switch either, although I know I took one. The tractor is being borrowed by a friend currently so I don't have access to it right now.

As far as I know, the bypass switch (what I was calling neutral) is on the body of the transmission, and you have to reach in and flip it. There is no rod attached like these newer drives. It's just a little metal flap you flip one way or another, but when i flip it, it's still impossible to push the mower, even with 3 people. I was wondering if I was doing it wrong, or maybe I don't have the correct switch.

I also have no idea how to maintain this particular drive either. Without that switch working correctly I doubt I need to change the fluid and filter, (God only knows when that was done last), because I won't be able to purge it.

I'll keep digging for some information, maybe I can find a maintenance manual or something that shows a close-up of this particular model's tranny bypass and the change process.

 

[NorthBama]

I just work on a 285 for a friend. I pushed it by lift a flat actuator on top of transmission near right rear tire. no switch only actuator.

 

[Homer1]

Nice, I will check that out when i get it back.. Maybe I was trying to use the wrong switch/lever. I think I know what your talking about.

 

[NorthBama]

it look like this

 

[Homer1]

Yes, that's it. Every time I try and move it, it moves without any resistance at all, which makes it appear to not be doing anything at all. Whatever it's supposed to depress or move on the other side of the arm is either broken or stuck. Therefore it seems it never goes into "bypass" just stays where it is. We tried to use bypass to push it when the original engine crapped out on us, and it ended up taking 4 of us to pick it up and set it on a trailer. Never fun with such a heavy machine.

 

[NorthBama]

yes it is a heavy machine

 

[Glyn Robinson]

same lever on my 320. it will not move without the engine running without it being pushed down.

 

[javjacob]

You don't need to use the bypass switch/lever to purge the tranny after an oil change. After you change the oil all you have to do to purge it is start it up and let it idle for a minute. Then slowly drive forward, stop, drive backward, stop, idle... repeat. Its best to do this when the outside temp is warm.