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Hello all, new owner of an old mower. I picked it up for $20 at a garage sale, it ran one time once I got it home. I turned it off and it hasn't started since. SN Indicates it is a 1978 model.
I have put in fresh gas, tried some starter fluid too. I replaced the spark plug, took the carb off and cleaned it with some carb cleaner. I replaced the fuel line since it was dry-rotted. I ordered a new primer bulb off ebay and it's on the way. I plan to replace the primer line as well. Fuel does flow through the line into the carb (and out the air box when I over-prime it, making a bit of a mess).

I have spark, I visially confirmed with the old plug but replaced the plug anyway. Primer bulb is old but not full of holes and when pressed does force some air and fuel into the carb. The on/off switch does work, I confirmed that at the same time as the spark. My next step is to check and make sure the piston actually moves when the starter cord is pulled, I suspect the key may have broken on that last run.

Any thoughts? Besides the key I have bought a new starter cord since the original seems to have broken and been re-tied in an ugly fashion sometime in the past, leaving me with a very short cord. I also noticed the neutral/drive bar not only lifts the drive off the rear wheels (Interesting design!) but it also moves a cable attached to *SOMETHING* near the starter. Could be nothing, could be worth looking into. I did find a diagram on partstree but I have not sat down and really studied it.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

This manual should help you out. I think you have a series F engine, but please post the full serial number. Couple things I would be checking with an engine that old. Both crankcase seal may have dried out causing crankcase air leak. I would be replacing the float needle and seat. Post a picture of the “SOMETHING” near the starter, so we can identify it. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

Rivets said:

This manual should help you out. I think you have a series F engine, but please post the full serial number. Couple things I would be checking with an engine that old. Both crankcase seal may have dried out causing crankcase air leak. I would be replacing the float needle and seat. Post a picture of the “SOMETHING” near the starter, so we can identify it. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

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I'll get pics when I have some time this evening but the word escaped me earlier, the cable connects to the interlock.
Edit: I also took the 2mins to verify the piston moves when the cord is pulled so I'm thinking it might be spark after all, maybe even though I see a spark its not *enough* of one?

The compression test I did had it between roughly 35-40 PSI. I have to assume this is the problem as most google results say I should be closer to 90 PSI. I've got a set of piston rings on the way and I plan to tear it down and replace those. I may even hone the bore while I'm at it.

Do you mean deglazing or hinting the cylinder? If you hone the cylinder the rings you have coming will probably not work unless they are oversized. If you are going that far into a, I would recommend checking valve clearance and valve condition. Maybe just clearance to tight or bad valves.

Rivets said:

Do you mean deglazing or hinting the cylinder? If you hone the cylinder the rings you have coming will probably not work unless they are oversized. If you are going that far into a, I would recommend checking valve clearance and valve condition. Maybe just clearance to tight or bad valves.

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I will keep that in mind. I'll keep the honing tool put away unless it's the last resort!

UPDATE! I disassembled (and carefully ziploc bagged parts for reassembly [The reverse of disassembly!]) and I found the top piston ring had broken at some point. There is some damage to the piston, though it does not seem warped out of shape in any way. I have new rings but the damage affected the channels the rings sit in, meaning I think I need to carefully file down the damage to the channels until it is smooth and de-burred. I would buy a new piston if I could find one!

Where did you find your piston rings and other parts, Im wanting to do a overhaul on my F140 engine, I have three 8237's. This is a great mower that is well worth some investment!

Ring side gap is important
Too much & the rings will not be able to make a seal

Post your serial number for the 8237. There are some piston and ring sets available depending on the year of manufacture.

I have 3 Canadian 8237's, serial numbers: 9245596 9090019 9046964. I am interested in rebuilding at least two of the engines if I can find parts, all three have F-140 engines. Thank You.

All three engines take the same piston/ring set. LB 92-4923 or Toro 924923. Problem I’m finding is there are none available anywhere.