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7 year old Craftsman 21 hp riding mower hard to turnover & start, High compression stroke. Model 331877 2371 G5, YT3000
#1
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
I bought a used craftsman riding mower for a few hundred dollars thinking that I could fix it. I was told it sat over winter and they couldn’t get it started this year. They said they didn’t know much about fixing it so they bought a new one. I figured it sounded like maybe a easy fix. Guessed wrong so far. They replaced the battery but with low torque I noticed. When I got it the battery was dead. Charged the battery, adjusted the Values to 005, both intake and exhaust. I tried to start the engine, a few times the engine didn’t want to turn over more then an inch. I rotate the engine by hand over the high compression and I tried starting the engine. The engine started right up and ran really good. Cool I thought!
, that I have fixed it. Wrong. When I tried to re started the engine, the same thing again. I replaced the started thinking it was bad or going bad. I replaced my starter. I still had the same trouble starting the engine, not turning over enough to start and now I broke two starter gears.
Q, I am not if the started is installed correctly, Is there supposed to be a shim/washer under the rear starter bolt Between the engine and the starter? When I was removing the starter a washer fell and not sure was it behind the starter or not? Currently there isn’t one and I have broke two gears now. Maybe that is my answer. Or is the high compression breaking my starter gears?
Q, I can’t tell if the crank/cam compression release lobe is releasing on my mower looking at the valves. The little bump what I have read and seen on the you tube videos. I have read an old 2014 forum had a similar problem but they replaced the starter and they were good. Or so good for me. I may have to take it down to the repair store if I can’t figure this one out.
Any help would be great
Stan
, that I have fixed it. Wrong. When I tried to re started the engine, the same thing again. I replaced the started thinking it was bad or going bad. I replaced my starter. I still had the same trouble starting the engine, not turning over enough to start and now I broke two starter gears.
Q, I am not if the started is installed correctly, Is there supposed to be a shim/washer under the rear starter bolt Between the engine and the starter? When I was removing the starter a washer fell and not sure was it behind the starter or not? Currently there isn’t one and I have broke two gears now. Maybe that is my answer. Or is the high compression breaking my starter gears?
Q, I can’t tell if the crank/cam compression release lobe is releasing on my mower looking at the valves. The little bump what I have read and seen on the you tube videos. I have read an old 2014 forum had a similar problem but they replaced the starter and they were good. Or so good for me. I may have to take it down to the repair store if I can’t figure this one out.
Any help would be great
Stan
#2
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
If you are sure the valve clearances are correct, and may want to double check to confirm. then next step would be the camshaft due to a broken compression release. And the washer would of been on the outside not behind for a shim. If it even was supposed to be there, unless that washer came from someplace else.
#3
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
yeah, ive had my fair share of mowers with a bad acr (like half of them) and sometimes if its not too bad you can buy a very powerful high cc batter for them and it sorta bypasses it, but yeah, when looking for a mower, avoid the 21xxxx, 28xxxx, 31xxxx, and 33xxxx briggs and stratton single cylinder engines, especially the intek ones
#4
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Check you got the correct starter, there are several of them and there is 2 different size of drive pinion.
On top of this all of the cheap imported starters are 2 pole ( 2 magnet ) starters that consume a massive amount of Amps for very little torque .
Most of them fail within a couple of years
The brushes are very soft and many will have so much carbon dust accumulating that they short out .
On top of this all of the cheap imported starters are 2 pole ( 2 magnet ) starters that consume a massive amount of Amps for very little torque .
Most of them fail within a couple of years
The brushes are very soft and many will have so much carbon dust accumulating that they short out .
#5
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
i forgot that i have this exact same mower! if you have any questions, ask me because i now have a visual of what you r dealing with lol
#6
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
Thanks, I will double check my clearance again to see if there the same. Could the engine still run if the compression release was bad? I had the engine running a few times and even mowed the lawn with it one time until the starter broke today. Thanks for the washer note.If you are sure the valve clearances are correct, and may want to double check to confirm. then next step would be the camshaft due to a broken compression release. And the washer would of been on the outside not behind for a shim. If it even was supposed to be there, unless that washer came from someplace else.
#7
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
yes it can, you can put in a new and much stronger battery and that will essentially bypass the ACR or i have seen some people cover up the intake hole with their hand and it would start, just some advice from someone who had 5 or 6 of these Hard-to-crank blown acr engines, just sayinThanks, I will double check my clearance again to see if there the same. Could the engine still run if the compression release was bad? I had the engine running a few times and even mowed the lawn with it one time until the starter broke today. Thanks for the washer note.
#8
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
I took my old starter into a local Electric shop, they told me that they only make one style of starter for my mower, however there are three qualities cheap , middle of the road and the best. The starter that I got they just happen to have a new one on the shelf. The gear only lasted about a dozen starts then broke. I had the old starter and they swapped out the gears for me. Unfortunately my old start gear broke only after a few attempts trying to starting my mower. I will have to do some more research on the different size drive pinions. Thank youCheck you got the correct starter, there are several of them and there is 2 different size of drive pinion.
On top of this all of the cheap imported starters are 2 pole ( 2 magnet ) starters that consume a massive amount of Amps for very little torque .
Most of them fail within a couple of years
The brushes are very soft and many will have so much carbon dust accumulating that they short out .
#9
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
i think they make metal ones...I took my old starter into a local Electric shop, they told me that they only make one style of starter for my mower, however there are three qualities cheap , middle of the road and the best. The starter that I got they just happen to have a new one on the shelf. The gear only lasted about a dozen starts then broke. I had the old starter and they swapped out the gears for me. Unfortunately my old start gear broke only after a few attempts trying to starting my mower. I will have to do some more research on the different size drive pinions. Thank you
#11
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
Thanks for the great info. My little project is starting to get expensive, looks like I need a new battery and a starter..yes it can, you can put in a new and much stronger battery and that will essentially bypass the ACR or i have seen some people cover up the intake hole with their hand and it would start, just some advice from someone who had 5 or 6 of these Hard-to-crank blown acr engines, just sayin
#13
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
you can try all these alternative fixes or actually fix the problem, which is most likely the compression releaseThanks for the great info. My little project is starting to get expensive, looks like I need a new battery and a starter..
#14
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
how much have you spent on it so far?Thanks for the great info. My little project is starting to get expensive, looks like I need a new battery and a starter..
#15
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
that iswierd that the new starter gaer broke so soon thoughThanks for the great info. My little project is starting to get expensive, looks like I need a new battery and a starter..
#17
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
yeah. that should be a permanent fix at least for the starterI will pick that up, better then replacing the whole starter. Thanks
#18
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
I know, I can’t figure that one out too. By the way, What do you recommend for a battery CA‘s?that iswierd that the new starter gaer broke so soon though
#19
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
I am not sure if I want to tear into this, it sounds like a kinda big job. I may check with the local lawn repair shop to see what they would charge to replace the cam? Any idea how much it would cost theses days? Ore then the mower is worth?you can try all these alternative fixes or actually fix the problem, which is most likely the compression release
#20
V
VegetiveSteam
Maybe someone mentioned this and I missed it but with the spark plug out you should be able to turn the engine over by hand with the rocker cover off and see if the compression release is bumping the valve open on the compression stroke. Just one man's opinion.
V
VegetiveSteam
Like has been mentioned you probably have a bad compression release but just a thought. If you have a compression tester you might want to check compression before you condemn the compression release. You'd hate to go to all the work of replacing a camshaft that didn't need replacing. You should be able to do that just like you did when you got it started. Once you get it past the initial stoppage it will probably keep turning over so you can get a reading. Anything over 100 psi would probably be a good indicator of a failed compression release or improper valve setting but it you've checked that. If the compression release isn't working the compression will probably be well over 100 psi.I rotate the engine by hand over the high compression and I tried starting the engine. The engine started right up and ran really good.
Maybe someone mentioned this and I missed it but with the spark plug out you should be able to turn the engine over by hand with the rocker cover off and see if the compression release is bumping the valve open on the compression stroke. Just one man's opinion.
#21
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
That’s great advice, I have to go through my boxes to see if I still have my tester. I used to have a tester but haven’t used it in many years. If not, I can probably find a friend that has one. I agree, I really don’t want to tear the engine apart if I don’t need to. I also did check my valve gaps and did a slight adjustment, not sure if a thousandth would make much difference. I should be getting my new starter gear today in the mail to change out.Like has been mentioned you probably have a bad compression release but just a thought. If you have a compression tester you might want to check compression before you condemn the compression release. You'd hate to go to all the work of replacing a camshaft that didn't need replacing. You should be able to do that just like you did when you got it started. Once you get it past the initial stoppage it will probably keep turning over so you can get a reading. Anything over 100 psi would probably be a good indicator of a failed compression release or improper valve setting but it you've checked that. If the compression release isn't working the compression will probably be well over 100 psi.
Maybe someone mentioned this and I missed it but with the spark plug out you should be able to turn the engine over by hand with the rocker cover off and see if the compression release is bumping the valve open on the compression stroke. Just one man's opinion.
#22
P
PNWguy
I am donating this mower to our Local Church in town, if I can get it working reliably. I called a local repair guy to see what they would charge and he’s has a same motor he went through that he’s willing to sell to me for $450, if I give him my motor In exchange. Or repair my motor for about the same price if the cam bad for $375-400.
P
PNWguy
I bought the mower for $375, replaced the starter for $ 85 plus tax. Oil, plug and a gas filter. Bought another starter gear $15, Around $500 So far.how much have you spent on it so far?
I am donating this mower to our Local Church in town, if I can get it working reliably. I called a local repair guy to see what they would charge and he’s has a same motor he went through that he’s willing to sell to me for $450, if I give him my motor In exchange. Or repair my motor for about the same price if the cam bad for $375-400.
#23
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
prob 300+, just depends what your budget is because i know that this project is starting to cost a bitI know, I can’t figure that one out too. By the way, What do you recommend for a battery CA‘s?
#24
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
hmmm, thats a big tradeoffI bought the mower for $375, replaced the starter for $ 85 plus tax. Oil, plug and a gas filter. Bought another starter gear $15, Around $500 So far.
I am donating this mower to our Local Church in town, if I can get it working reliably. I called a local repair guy to see what they would charge and he’s has a same motor he went through that he’s willing to sell to me for $450, if I give him my motor In exchange. Or repair my motor for about the same price if the cam bad for $375-400.
#25
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
its really not that hard to replace the cam, its just right there after you take the oil pan off...
#26
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Yep, around $400 to replace cam with compression release and labor sounds fair. I am doing one next week when cam comes in.I bought the mower for $375, replaced the starter for $ 85 plus tax. Oil, plug and a gas filter. Bought another starter gear $15, Around $500 So far.
I am donating this mower to our Local Church in town, if I can get it working reliably. I called a local repair guy to see what they would charge and he’s has a same motor he went through that he’s willing to sell to me for $450, if I give him my motor In exchange. Or repair my motor for about the same price if the cam bad for $375-400.
#27
C
Cajun power
C
Cajun power
couple of points.
1. bertsmobile has really good advice...he is particularly reliable with his experienced suggestions.
2. just because you have a new battery does not mean you have GOOD WIRING AND CONNECTIONS. test and inspect every single red and black cable (heavy) wire and connection...Pay attention to the starter solenoid (red) and the flywheel solenoid starter (also red), and also the black heavy wire going to chassis ground. It might be just be a loose or corroded connection or a bad ground. If you have a clamp meter, you can measure the current across the heavy red cable connected between the starter solenoid and the flywheel solenoid starter. If the amps are low, you know you have a wiring issue a bad connection somewhere or the flywheel solenoid starter is bad. This assumes the battery you installed it GOOD AND FULLY CHARGED - not RUN DOWN from repeatedly trying to start the mower with it.!! yes?
and finally but certainly not this....this is one of those universal size fits all shade tree mechanics methods to check and engine isn't borked...it will not tell you what the problem is, but it helps you eliminate many other things
remove all spark plugs...rotate flywheel BY HAND. Engine should rotate easily with no resistance. If it doesn't, you know you have something related to engine (valves, auto compression release, bent valves, valves stepped out or damaged, borked crank, seized or broken piston/piston rings, failed or borked PTO (is belt under tension all the time?, even power off?)
hopes this helps....start with the simple things and work up to the harder things...in most cases, especially if mower is old, it's going to be a simple thing...like wiring that has corroded or a starter solenoid that
1. bertsmobile has really good advice...he is particularly reliable with his experienced suggestions.
2. just because you have a new battery does not mean you have GOOD WIRING AND CONNECTIONS. test and inspect every single red and black cable (heavy) wire and connection...Pay attention to the starter solenoid (red) and the flywheel solenoid starter (also red), and also the black heavy wire going to chassis ground. It might be just be a loose or corroded connection or a bad ground. If you have a clamp meter, you can measure the current across the heavy red cable connected between the starter solenoid and the flywheel solenoid starter. If the amps are low, you know you have a wiring issue a bad connection somewhere or the flywheel solenoid starter is bad. This assumes the battery you installed it GOOD AND FULLY CHARGED - not RUN DOWN from repeatedly trying to start the mower with it.!! yes?
and finally but certainly not this....this is one of those universal size fits all shade tree mechanics methods to check and engine isn't borked...it will not tell you what the problem is, but it helps you eliminate many other things
remove all spark plugs...rotate flywheel BY HAND. Engine should rotate easily with no resistance. If it doesn't, you know you have something related to engine (valves, auto compression release, bent valves, valves stepped out or damaged, borked crank, seized or broken piston/piston rings, failed or borked PTO (is belt under tension all the time?, even power off?)
hopes this helps....start with the simple things and work up to the harder things...in most cases, especially if mower is old, it's going to be a simple thing...like wiring that has corroded or a starter solenoid that
#28
T
T-Bbone
T
T-Bbone
I have the same problem with the 270000 model. How hard is it to fix the compression release? If I take off the oil fill cap it shoots oil a foot high. I was going to replace the head (valve last was properly adjusted at some point the sleeve came loose and the prior owner pinned it back in place, so that sounded like the culprit) but it sounds like the compression release is the more logical source of the problem. Everything else on the mower is perfect so I’d hate to scrap it.If you are sure the valve clearances are correct, and may want to double check to confirm. then next step would be the camshaft due to a broken compression release. And the washer would have been on the outside not behind for a shim. If it even was supposed to be there, unless that washer came from someplace else.
#30
F
Freddie21
F
Freddie21
I think the Briggs single cylinder engines have two different starters. The gears have different amount of teeth. 14 and 16, if I remember correctly. They have to match the flywheel gear which can be aluminum or steel. Wrong gear and you'll tear it up.
#31
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
i think you made a mistake on your model number. I think you mean 280000 series which the 21xxxx, 28xxxx, 31xxxx, 33xxxx all use the same 84005207 camshaft. And if the engine is running and you remove the dipstick they all will shoot oil all over the place. The piston going up and down will act like a large air pump pulling in air on the up stroke and then will try to purge that air on the down stroke. You have to run it and then shutoff the engine prior to removing the dipstick to check for the blown head gasket smoke.I have the same problem with the 270000 model. How hard is it to fix the compression release? If I take off the oil fill cap it shoots oil a foot high. I was going to replace the head (valve last was properly adjusted at some point the sleeve came loose and the prior owner pinned it back in place, so that sounded like the culprit) but it sounds like the compression release is the more logical source of the problem. Everything else on the mower is perfect so I’d hate to scrap it.
#32
R
Ronni
R
Ronni
To answer your question about the washer; find an illustrated parts breakdown and find that washer on it and you will have your answer. Regarding the broken gear; that will have to be replaced or nothing will work properly. Regarding the hard starting; two things. First, make sure your battery has the required cold cranking amperes for the engine; that will be in the owner's manual. Secondly, if the starter is undamaged and new, you might want to replace the starter solenoid because they do go bad and that will cause your problem.I bought a used craftsman riding mower for a few hundred dollars thinking that I could fix it. I was told it sat over winter and they couldn’t get it started this year. They said they didn’t know much about fixing it so they bought a new one. I figured it sounded like maybe a easy fix. Guessed wrong so far. They replaced the battery but with low torque I noticed. When I got it the battery was dead. Charged the battery, adjusted the Values to 005, both intake and exhaust. I tried to start the engine, a few times the engine didn’t want to turn over more then an inch. I rotate the engine by hand over the high compression and I tried starting the engine. The engine started right up and ran really good. Cool I thought!
, that I have fixed it. Wrong. When I tried to re started the engine, the same thing again. I replaced the started thinking it was bad or going bad. I replaced my starter. I still had the same trouble starting the engine, not turning over enough to start and now I broke two starter gears.
Q, I am not if the started is installed correctly, Is there supposed to be a shim/washer under the rear starter bolt Between the engine and the starter? When I was removing the starter a washer fell and not sure was it behind the starter or not? Currently there isn’t one and I have broke two gears now. Maybe that is my answer. Or is the high compression breaking my starter gears?
Q, I can’t tell if the crank/cam compression release lobe is releasing on my mower looking at the valves. The little bump what I have read and seen on the you tube videos. I have read an old 2014 forum had a similar problem but they replaced the starter and they were good. Or so good for me. I may have to take it down to the repair store if I can’t figure this one out.
Any help would be great
Stan
#33
M
MowerNick
M
MowerNick
you need a camshaft. very common problem. in my shop we change a couple of those a week. the cam has a built in decompression valve that breaks off the cam. you also shouldnt keep running it like that because if one of the broken pieces gets jammed somewhere it shouldnt it could completely ruin the engine.
#34
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
Thanks, I wish that I knew that beforehand. I removed my mower Engine today and opened it up. Sure enough, the cam decompression release valve is totaly destroyed. Broken in several piece. I am trying to find all of the small pieces. I think that I got most of them but think there may be some more unless they were in the oil when I drained it. One large piece came out when draining the oil. I just ordered the new parts. I have a new question, I removed both long push rods and they are different looking, does it matter which position they go in. There both the same length.you need a camshaft. very common problem. in my shop we change a couple of those a week. the cam has a built in decompression valve that breaks off the cam. you also shouldnt keep running it like that because if one of the broken pieces gets jammed somewhere it shouldnt it could completely ruin the engine.
#35
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
I decided to do it my self, I found the problem, bad cam release. It was broken in man pieces. it will cost about $120 to replace the items and starter gears again lol, a lot better then $350. I can’t wait to put it all back together in a few days.hmmm, thats a big tradeoff
#36
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
I like your video, yep, that’s my problem. I just bought a new cam online, so I should be good. Thanks for sharing.its really not that hard to replace the cam, its just right there after you take the oil pan off...
#38
P
PNWguy
P
PNWguy
Thanks for the good advice! All of my connections are clean and tight. And you can rotate engine by hand. I removed the engine today and found a bad cam release mechanism. Broken into several pieces. I just order new parts that should fix it. Thanks everyone for helping me out. Hopefully everything will go back together and it fixes my problem.couple of points.
1. bertsmobile has really good advice...he is particularly reliable with his experienced suggestions.
2. just because you have a new battery does not mean you have GOOD WIRING AND CONNECTIONS. test and inspect every single red and black cable (heavy) wire and connection...Pay attention to the starter solenoid (red) and the flywheel solenoid starter (also red), and also the black heavy wire going to chassis ground. It might be just be a loose or corroded connection or a bad ground. If you have a clamp meter, you can measure the current across the heavy red cable connected between the starter solenoid and the flywheel solenoid starter. If the amps are low, you know you have a wiring issue a bad connection somewhere or the flywheel solenoid starter is bad. This assumes the battery you installed it GOOD AND FULLY CHARGED - not RUN DOWN from repeatedly trying to start the mower with it.!! yes?
and finally but certainly not this....this is one of those universal size fits all shade tree mechanics methods to check and engine isn't borked...it will not tell you what the problem is, but it helps you eliminate many other things
remove all spark plugs...rotate flywheel BY HAND. Engine should rotate easily with no resistance. If it doesn't, you know you have something related to engine (valves, auto compression release, bent valves, valves stepped out or damaged, borked crank, seized or broken piston/piston rings, failed or borked PTO (is belt under tension all the time?, even power off?)
hopes this helps....start with the simple things and work up to the harder things...in most cases, especially if mower is old, it's going to be a simple thing...like wiring that has corroded or a starter solenoid that
#39
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
Also make sure you are adjusting valves correctly.
Your first post says. 005. That is incorrect for a 31xxxxx series.
They set at intake: .003-.005
Exhaust: .005- .007
You want intake to be in the tighter side since that is the one that does the compression bump.
Exhaust is best on the looser side since it is more likely to burn and valves cool when closed.
They both get more clearance when they wear unlike cars.
ALSO you need to set piston at 1/2 inch past TDC of compression stroke to set and not at TDC like many think.
Regardless, if you saw no bump, then the ACR is prob busted.
Problem is the aftermarket cheap ones are a crapshoot!
I used 3-4 with no problems they I know of BUT the last one bit me.
It was a friend's mower and it only lasted 10 mows!!
The lobes spun on the shaft.
I don't trust Briggs OEM ones much but I trust them a little more than Amazon/eBay ones.
The Briggs one is almost through it's second season now.
Make sure you pull the oil pump flat cover and gear before you put the sump back on or you risk jamming up the pump gear and having no oil pressure and that will blow engine in about 90 seconds.
Your first post says. 005. That is incorrect for a 31xxxxx series.
They set at intake: .003-.005
Exhaust: .005- .007
You want intake to be in the tighter side since that is the one that does the compression bump.
Exhaust is best on the looser side since it is more likely to burn and valves cool when closed.
They both get more clearance when they wear unlike cars.
ALSO you need to set piston at 1/2 inch past TDC of compression stroke to set and not at TDC like many think.
Regardless, if you saw no bump, then the ACR is prob busted.
Problem is the aftermarket cheap ones are a crapshoot!
I used 3-4 with no problems they I know of BUT the last one bit me.
It was a friend's mower and it only lasted 10 mows!!
The lobes spun on the shaft.
I don't trust Briggs OEM ones much but I trust them a little more than Amazon/eBay ones.
The Briggs one is almost through it's second season now.
Make sure you pull the oil pump flat cover and gear before you put the sump back on or you risk jamming up the pump gear and having no oil pressure and that will blow engine in about 90 seconds.
#40
B
BobHog
B
BobHog
Most likely valve clearances. The compression release can break, but I would definitely check the valves first. If it is the compression release, make sure you get a new cam seal - they are a booger to get to seal again!
#41
T
TobyU
In doing a camshaft replacement, the seals you may need would be the engine sump bottom gasket or possibly a valve cover gasket or two depending on whether we're doing a single or a twin but this post was about a twin.
There are no seals for the camshaft as it simply sits into the machine hole on the top and the bottom.
The valve cover gaskets on the Briggs are far better if they are the older style that is a paper gasket because you can almost always reuse those and they rarely leak.
They got cheap a few years back and started just putting our TV on them which works fine also and again they rarely leak
The only time they actually leak is when people don't wipe the dad or get something stuck on them or just over tighten the bolts excessively.
Now the Kohler on the other hand for the courage single is a completely different animal and that thing hardly ever seals properly or completely..
T
TobyU
What the heck is a cam seal?Most likely valve clearances. The compression release can break, but I would definitely check the valves first. If it is the compression release, make sure you get a new cam seal - they are a booger to get to seal again!
In doing a camshaft replacement, the seals you may need would be the engine sump bottom gasket or possibly a valve cover gasket or two depending on whether we're doing a single or a twin but this post was about a twin.
There are no seals for the camshaft as it simply sits into the machine hole on the top and the bottom.
The valve cover gaskets on the Briggs are far better if they are the older style that is a paper gasket because you can almost always reuse those and they rarely leak.
They got cheap a few years back and started just putting our TV on them which works fine also and again they rarely leak
The only time they actually leak is when people don't wipe the dad or get something stuck on them or just over tighten the bolts excessively.
Now the Kohler on the other hand for the courage single is a completely different animal and that thing hardly ever seals properly or completely..
#42
J
jviews12
J
jviews12
If you can turn it over easily with plugs out and a wrench, then try starter. It will not start but tel you you did the valves backwards. Could be valve rods are bent or something. Yes, try with plugs out so no compression.
#43
C
charleneje
C
charleneje
I bought a used craftsman riding mower for a few hundred dollars thinking that I could fix it. I was told it sat over winter and they couldn’t get it started this year. They said they didn’t know much about fixing it so they bought a new one. I figured it sounded like maybe a easy fix. Guessed wrong so far. They replaced the battery but with low torque I noticed. When I got it the battery was dead. Charged the battery, adjusted the Values to 005, both intake and exhaust. I tried to start the engine, a few times the engine didn’t want to turn over more then an inch. I rotate the engine by hand over the high compression and I tried starting the engine. The engine started right up and ran really good. Cool I thought!
, that I have fixed it. Wrong. When I tried to re started the engine, the same thing again. I replaced the started thinking it was bad or going bad. I replaced my starter. I still had the same trouble starting the engine, not turning over enough to start and now I broke two starter gears.
Q, I am not if the started is installed correctly, Is there supposed to be a shim/washer under the rear starter bolt Between the engine and the starter? When I was removing the starter a washer fell and not sure was it behind the starter or not? Currently there isn’t one and I have broke two gears now. Maybe that is my answer. Or is the high compression breaking my starter gears?
Q, I can’t tell if the crank/cam compression release lobe is releasing on my mower looking at the valves. The little bump what I have read and seen on the you tube videos. I have read an old 2014 forum had a similar problem but they replaced the starter and they were good. Or so good for me. I may have to take it down to the repair store if I can’t figure this one out.
Any help would be great
Stan
I own one of those YT3000 mowers I bought new in 2014 had nothing but trouble with it right now its parked needing a transaxle. But I had similar problem to you with it not turning over and found that the fuel had been running into the crankcase how I don't know. when you did actually start it was there any smoke. I would definately check the oil level and find out if it isnt that the fuel hasnt built up ontop of the piston that will stop the engine turning over have you pulled the plug out and tried to spin it on the starter and if so was any liquid blown out of the plug hole. I do suggest that once you do get this mower running you put a shut off valve in the fuel tube to the carb.I bought a used craftsman riding mower for a few hundred dollars thinking that I could fix it. I was told it sat over winter and they couldn’t get it started this year. They said they didn’t know much about fixing it so they bought a new one. I figured it sounded like maybe a easy fix. Guessed wrong so far. They replaced the battery but with low torque I noticed. When I got it the battery was dead. Charged the battery, adjusted the Values to 005, both intake and exhaust. I tried to start the engine, a few times the engine didn’t want to turn over more then an inch. I rotate the engine by hand over the high compression and I tried starting the engine. The engine started right up and ran really good. Cool I thought!
, that I have fixed it. Wrong. When I tried to re started the engine, the same thing again. I replaced the started thinking it was bad or going bad. I replaced my starter. I still had the same trouble starting the engine, not turning over enough to start and now I broke two starter gears.
Q, I am not if the started is installed correctly, Is there supposed to be a shim/washer under the rear starter bolt Between the engine and the starter? When I was removing the starter a washer fell and not sure was it behind the starter or not? Currently there isn’t one and I have broke two gears now. Maybe that is my answer. Or is the high compression breaking my starter gears?
Q, I can’t tell if the crank/cam compression release lobe is releasing on my mower looking at the valves. The little bump what I have read and seen on the you tube videos. I have read an old 2014 forum had a similar problem but they replaced the starter and they were good. Or so good for me. I may have to take it down to the repair store if I can’t figure this one out.
Any help would be great
Stan
#44
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MowerNick
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MowerNick
The intake push rod is aluminum and the exhaust is steel. it does make a difference so take note when reassembling
#45
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PNWguy
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PNWguy
I would like to thank everyone that posted and gave me advice. My ACR on the cam was broken in several pieces. I replaced the cam assembly and my starter gear, adjusting the valves, put a new spark plug in, gas filter. After getting it all put back together and installed back on the riding lawnmower.. My engine started right up and ran so smoothly. Back on the lawn again.
