Export thread

I have owned this Tiller for 12 years from new and only use it about twice a year, has always ran and started very good.
The problem I have is it is now extremely hard to pull and sometimes it jerks back and pulls the rope out of my hand. I asked around and was told to adj the valves to .005 which I did. I did get it started (lucky) and it ran as always, very good. Only ran it once. Now the same problem but can's get it started. Looking at the valves they are both moving up and down normal. I don't have a service manual so I assume .005 is the correct valve clearance. Any ideas, Thanks

Replace the flywheel key, even though it looks good. Kick backs are normally a sign the key is sheared or starting to shear.

mrvulcan said:

I have owned this Tiller for 12 years from new and only use it about twice a year, has always ran and started very good.
The problem I have is it is now extremely hard to pull and sometimes it jerks back and pulls the rope out of my hand. I asked around and was told to adj the valves to .005 which I did. I did get it started (lucky) and it ran as always, very good. Only ran it once. Now the same problem but can's get it started. Looking at the valves they are both moving up and down normal. I don't have a service manual so I assume .005 is the correct valve clearance. Any ideas, Thanks

Click to expand...

Eliminate the simplest possibilities first.

How does it pull with the spark plug out and no compression?

Check the recoil out completely first
Make sure it is in neutral

Dollars to donuts it is not the valves.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/n...nginemanuals.html?searchrequested=126402-0206

see page 4 in operators manual for valve adjustment: intake 0.004-0.006 exhaust 0.009-0.011.

Rivets said:

Replace the flywheel key, even though it looks good. Kick backs are normally a sign the key is sheared or starting to shear.

Click to expand...

I checked the flywheel and the key looked ok, but I will change it to be sure. Thanks

shiftsuper175607 said:

Eliminate the simplest possibilities first.

How does it pull with the spark plug out and no compression?

Check the recoil out completely first
Make sure it is in neutral

Dollars to donuts it is not the valves.

Click to expand...

I pulled the plug and it is all smooth. when it does start it runs perfect. Thanks

mechanic mark said:

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/n...nginemanuals.html?searchrequested=126402-0206

see page 4 in operators manual for valve adjustment: intake 0.004-0.006 exhaust 0.009-0.011.

Click to expand...

That I will do, I had both set at .005. Thanks

mrvulcan said:

That I will do, I had both set at .005. Thanks

Click to expand...

Sorry for getting back so late but here is where I am.
I replaced the key, old one was or looked good but replaced it anyway, set the plugs to 5 and 10 like I was told were the settings.
I did get it started and when it ran it ran pretty good, video attached.
If it don't start in the first few pulls I am lucky to get it started.
When trying to start (here is my problem) I slowly pull on the rope to get it to where the cylinder is in the compression stroke, then when I pull it is very hard like the valves do not open and I get some kick back, but if it starts it runs very good.

Any thoughts
Thanks

opps can't upload the file it is a mp4. But it is just a short video of the tiller running

Put it on You tube or photo bucket then paste the link.

As for your engine, turn the engine over slowly watching the movement of the valves.
Just before TDC on the compression stoke one of them should open very slightly to allow for some decompression.
If this is not happening the cam shaft is worn.

As for not starting , you can put that down to modern fuels and modern plugs.
NGK no longer glaze their centre electrode insulators which will pick up the fuel and make a conductive path thus earthing out the plug.
Any deposits on the plug will do the same thing
Modern fuel is junk.